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PORTO RICO 
HAWAII ^ -J* 
PHILIPPINES 



\7ITH VIEWS OF THE AMEFJCAN 
ARMY AND NAVY .. _, . 



Over 300 Illustrations 





-OSScrdl— .--5- 



•aatiHomamcDmo 



PICTURESQUE 



Cuba. Porto Rico, Hawaii 
AND THE Philippines 



A PHOTOGRAPHIC PANORAMA OF 
OUR NEW POSSESSIONS 



Depicting- ihe Natives, Their Costumes, Habitations and Occupations; Prominent 

Buildings, Street Scenes, IVlountain and River Scenery, Etc. Also Life 

in the American Army and Navy, with Portraits of the 

Chief Actors in the Spanish-American War 



OVER THREE Fffrl^RED ILLUSTRATIONS 

(?<i|i>ili(lit. Iww. !•> Miisl, riMwi'Il A Klrk|i:ilrlrk 



PUBLISHED BY 
MAST, CROWELL & KIRKPATRICK 

SPRINGFIELD. OHIO 



F 



TWO COPIES REc-rved. 







CONTENTS 



\4- 






Cuba .... 
The Pearl of the Antilles 



•24092 



Porto Rico 

The West Indian i^o.sses.sion of the United States 

Charlotte Amelia, Island of St. Thomas . 



PAGE 

3 

26 

41 



Scene in Rridgjetown. Isle of Barbadoes . 



41 



Hawaii 

The Paradise of the I'acific 



43 



Principal .Actors in the Spanish-American War . 64, 65. 94, 121 

Army, the 67 

Scenes and Incidents at the \'arious Camps 

Navy, the 95 

Facts and Incidents Concernin<r Our .Shii)s and Seamen 

Philippines, the 107 

The El Dorado of the Orient — America's Eastern Possessions 



^^h-b 



K^ . 01 CL 




Cil> ui lla\aiui, Irum llic Mcij;hts Ac 



the Bay 



CUBA 



The Pearl of the Antilles 




10 country in the world has a more stormy past 
than the island of Cuba, although it may be truly 
asserted that its government has remained 
practically unchanged since the Spaniards first 
took possession soon after its discovery four 
hundred years ago, slaughtering and making 
' alnves of the peaceful natives and inaugurating a policy of 
0^1 resiion and infamy which, coupled with universal instances 
of fiiiiilar policies in all her other colonies, past and present, 
has finally made the name of Spain synonymous with oppres- 
sion, cruelty and vice. 

History shows for Cuba a past of intrigue and insurrection 
on the one hand and oflicial robbery and rapine on the other; 
a spectacle of prostitute grandeur feasting and reveling 
amidst down-trodden and shackled honesty, patriotism 
and poverty; a past which can boast but two clas.ses of 
citizenship — the oppressor and the oppressed; a past of 
prisons and official murder; a past wherein all spirit of prog- 
re.ss and development was sacrificed on the altar of [)ersonal 
lust and ambition, and which may be scanned for centuries 
back without the discovery of a single bright spot to relieve 
the gloom of the entire chronicle. 

True, the English made a conquest of the island in 17()2, 
but for once Engli.sh statesmanship failed of its wonted 
sagacity, and they traded the island back to Spain for Florida. 
During all these years Cuba was, in fact, a dueling-ground 
for the nations of the Old World, many of them being able 
to conquer it, but none of them considering it worth a 
struggle to keep. Twice was Havana destroyed by {'rench 
privateers in the sixteenth century, and in 1(124 the Hutch 
enriched themselves by capturing the city, but immediately 
abandoned it, and Spain again resumed possession. 

Since the resumption of Spain's sovereignty cruelty and 
oppression have been ramjiant in the island and the spirit of 
rebellion continually alive and on the increase. Since that 
date history shows a continuous reign of terror, a chronicle 
of struggling patriots and Spanish task-masters. 

The first rebellion, the Hhu-k Eagle Conspiracy, occurred 
in 1829, and was followed by others in lS:i(; and lS-14. 
Feeling in Spain was wrought to a high pitch by the issuance 
of the indiscreet Ostend Manifesto, in 1S.54. This famous 
declaration was written, or at least issued, by our ministers 
to England, France and Spain, and in it they declared that 
if Spain persistently refused to .sell Cuba the United States 
would seize the island and annex it by force, and would be 
justified in .so doing. This manifesto was doubtle.ss the out- 
growth and result of a general feeling of irritation in official 



circles over Spain's stubborn and unreasonable refusal to 
listen to any proposals whatever concerning the sale of the 
island. President I'olk had made efforts to purchase it in 
1848, and had been unceremoniously snubbed; and finally, 
in 1889, Sagasta, the Spanish premier, petulantly declared to 
our minister that there wasn't gold enough in the world 
to purchase Cuba. The conflict of these two antagonistic 
policies was brought to a partial sequel in the Virginius 
incident of 1873. The Virginius, an American ship, was 
captured by the Spaniards on the high .seas and taken to 
Santiago. The captain, James Fry, and the entire crew were 
condemned to death as "pirates." Strenuous objections 
were entered by the American consul and communication 
opened immediately with Washington. But on the day set, 
while the American statesmen were preparing a diplomatic 
note regarding the matter, the execution was jjroceeded 
with. Captain Fry and fifty-two of his seamen had been shot 
when a message was received from the captain of a British 
gunboat which had suddenly appeared in the harbor and 
trained her guns on the city. The note merely stated that 
if proceedings were not immediately suspended the city 
would be bombarded. This gunboat had come in all haste 
from Jamaica as soon as the aft'air was reported there, and 
succeeded in accomiilishing by characteristic Engli.sh i)rompt- 
ne.ss in action what American diplomacy would have been 
too late to effect. This, the policy of acting first and talking 
afterward, is what has won for England the hearty respect 
of all nations and has made the lives of English .subjects 
.safe anywhere in the civilized world. Needle.ss to say, in 
the case under discu.ssion the execution was immediately 
"postjioned" and the release of the remainder of the crew 
eventually secured. The matter was finally settled by the 
payment of an indemnity by Spain to the families of the 
murdered seamen. 

In ISiiS the Cubans inaugurated their first effective 
rebellion. It lasted for ten years, cost Spain .fCO.OOd.OOO 
and 100.000 men. and was finally .settled by the treaty of 
El Zanjon, in 1878. the terms of peace being autonomy and 
home rule for Cuba. The whole affair proved to be a mon- 
strous farce on the part of Spain. Repealed laws were 
replaced by others less just; new oppressors were sent from 
Spain to continue the work their predece.s.sors had been 
forced to abandon; opjiression was gradually resumed, but 
the spirit of rebellion was as iiromptly resurrected, and was 
foun(i to be only strengthened by its short sleep. The Cuban 
Junta was organized and established in the United States, 
and the period between 1878 and 1895 was employed in 




El Morro Castle, Havana Harbor 



sSliiv in S^^'"'' organizing the patriots and in enlisting 
sympatlij in this country. February 24. kSf)") the rebellion 

thf throe-" r"' ^r';"^ '•^''^"^' ""^^-'y^' be wHthn" 
the thioes of war had not Spanish etFrontery and cruelty 
been outdone by the DeLome letter, the destruction of he 
Maine, the policy of reconcentration and other ncidens 
and conditions, ultimately giving the United Stat^ iu 
cause to interfere and settle the war, securin-r Cuba's free 
dom and demanding evacuation of the island by her enemies 
20'"-;o t^in'Tl"'' > 1'^-';"'' '' '''''^''•"- '" l^titu^e 
wich. It lies, so near our continental territory as to make 



Uncle Sam-s fatherly interest in the welfare of the little 

to Havana. "''■' "'" "' '''"""■ ^'■""' ^^'^ ^''''''' f'°"da^ 

.-re^tly'lntidt'T'''" ''""^''''' ?'' •'^'"'>' '"''^■'' '""*^- ^"^ varies 
pL • r 1 Jh a^'erasiiif? about sixty miles. The Isla de 

tnbu aiy o ,t, in reality constituting a province nnd 
toge her with numerous smaller island.^ agg-eg te"'about 
2.1 <0 square miles, which, added to Cuba-sJ-HXX) makes 
the tota area of the islands about e,,ual to 1 a t crfthe 
state of I'ennsylyania, or one sixth that of the state of Texas 




cabanas Ci.stlv, .m 11;,, .in.T M.irbor, .Near El Atorro 





Havana, from the Inglaterra Hotel 



The surface of Cuba is generally rough, being traversed 
by a mountain range throughout its entire length. The 
mountains, however, are not high, reaching their greatest 
height in the eastern and widest part of the island, where 
they separate into spurs. The highest peak is 7.(570 feet, 
but the average height is not over 2,200 feet. These moun- 
tains form a natural watershed to the north and south, in 
one of which directions the necessarily short and usually 
swift rivers and streams all flow. 

Under Spanish rule only about one third of the available 
land has been reclaimed from its primeval state, the remain- 
der being covered with dense forests and growths of tall, 
rank gra.ss. During the wet season the lowlands along the 
coa.st are transformed into impassable swamps. There are, 
however, great level plains throughout the island, partic- 
ularly in the western part, and it is there 
that agricultural pursuits have flourished 
more e.xtensively than elsewhere. 

The climate in the low parts of the 
island is decidedly tropical, while in 
the more elevated interior it somewhat 
resembles the warmer portions of the 
temperate zone. The temperature varies 
to a remarkably small extent, the ther- 
mometer having a range of but thirty 
degrees throughout the year. Owing to 
this fact the island is noted as a san- 
itarium for sufferers from bnmchial or 
pulmonary troubles. The mean temi)er- 
ature throughout the year is about sev- 
enty-eight degrees - from an average of 
seventy-two in December and .lanuary to 
eighty-two in .luly and .Vugust. 

As a usual thing about forty inches 
of rain falls each year - nearly three 
fourths of it during the wet .sea.son, from 
ihe mid<lle cif .\pril to the middle of 
October. It is during thi.s sea.son of the 



year that yellow fever ravages the low-country cities and 
town.s, whose tilth and poor sanitation invite it, although it 
rarely becomes epidemic in the higher interior. 

The pojmlation of the island in 1SS7 isince which time no 
census has been taken) was I,().'^>1,(;19, about two thirds 
being white — mostly Spaniards or of Spanish descent — the 
other one third negroes, half-castes, etc. The population is 
very unevenly distributed, some provinces having twenty 
times as many peojde to the square mile as others. Some 
parts of the island are entirely unsettled, and the total pop- 
ulation is only about one flfth that of the state of New 
York, whose area is nearly the same. 

Under Spanish sovereignty but one religion the Roman 
Catholic - is recognized, and public schools are unknown 
institutions. Thus, education is rarely encountered among 




Small Sailinjr Craft at tht- Wharf in Havana 




Looking Down the Prado, Havana— Morro Castle in the DUtancc 




Tablet on To 



n the Cathedral, Havana 



the common people. This was one of the things contended 
for by the Cubans, many of the leaders of whom had been 
educated in free institutions of America, and longed to place 
the same advantages within reach of their own people. 
Under the new rule both religious toleration and a free 
school system will doubtless be incorporated as fundamental 
principles of good government, thus emulating the success- 
ful example of the United States. 

The .soil of Cuba is wonderfully fertile — seemingly inex- 
haustible — as is demonstrated by the luxuriance of the 
natural vegetation. All tropical plants thrive, most of them 
attaining to a rank growth in their wild state. Many 
varieties of palms grow wild, and are luxuriant examples 
of tropical growth. The Royal I'alm often reaches a height 
of one hundred feet or more, and is strikingly beautiful and 
majestic with its straight, highly polished trunk and broad, 
drooping leaves. It is extensively cultivated along boulevard.s, 
avenues and driveways, where it serves the double jiurpose 
of ornamentation and shade. The cocoanut-palm grows wild 
and produces a great profusion of fruit and verdure. Bananas 
and oranges grow in such quantities that at times no attempt 
is made to gather the crop in its entirety. Bananas, when 
exported, are always cut from the trees while green and 
allowed to ripen in transit. The orange trade is quite 
important and extensive, holding fourth jilace among the 
exjiorts. The total value of all Cuban exjiorts in 18;t4, Just 
previous to the last insurrection of the people, was over 
eighty-three million dollars. 

Sugar is the most important product of the island, the 
great iiigeiiios, or sugar idantations, with their mills, refin- 
eries and thousands of acres of cane, employing multitudes 
of laborers and turning out a jirodigious product. The usual 
product in time of peace is about one million Ions [ler annum, 
and it is conservatively estimated that, given jjrojier encour- 
agement under the right kind of a government, four times 
that amount could be produced. The exiiort value of sugar 
annually is tifty million dollars, and of niolas.ses nine million 
didlars, eighty i)er cent of which goes to the United State.s. 

Tobacco ranks next to sugar in importance and as a source 
of income. Under the rule of Spain, however, the govern- 



ment took possession of the 
trade as a monopoly, and 
iniposeii restrictions and 
exactions which greatly 
lessened the profit to the 
producers. The officers of 
the great government cigar 
factory at Havana are 
known to have approjjri- 
ated $041,000 as "salaries" 
in a single year. The rich 
plains in the western part 
of the island are the prin- 
cipal tobacco-raising dis- 
tricts, and it was in these 
provinces during the cut- 
ting season that the Cuban 
general, .\ntonio XIaceo, 
enlisted his patriot army, 
recruiting from the laborers 
at work in the fields. Here, 
also, the infamous Weyler 
put into practice his cold- 
blooded policy of destruc- 
t i n and reconcentration, 
wentually destroying by 
starvation and disea.se three 
hundred thousand Cuban 
women, children and old 
men, Spanish law being no 
respecter of persons. 

Coffee formerly ranked 
next to -sugar in export 
value and in profit to the 
producer. Brazilian compe- 
tition, however, has greatly 
broken down the trade, 
though it has not by any means 
large sugar plantations have a 
connection, they being much pri 
revenue, but for their ornam.ent; 



ma 




Window of Uwellinij, Ma\ana 



destroyed it. Many of the 

cdfital, or coffee estate, in 

.zed not only as a source of 

al value, the trees, the neat 



buildings and the clean, . 
spacious drying-yards re- 
([uired making a picturesque 
and |)leasing effect, espec- 
ially in comparison with 
the grim-looking sugar-mills 
and unesthetic cane-fields. 

Cuba is known to possess 
.some mineral wealth, which, 
however, is but slightly de- 
velojied. Large deposits of 
bituminous coal have been 
discovered, and will doubt- 
less be extensively mined 
at some future day. Iron, 
copper and manganese are 
exported more or less, and 
.silver and gold have been 
found in insignificant quan- 
tities. 

Havana, the capital, and 
the largest and most im- 
portant city on the island, 
has aViout two hundred 
thousand population, and is 
renowned not only as the 
greatest sugar and tobacco 
market of the world, but 
as a metropolis of wealth, 
luxury and indolent gaiety. 
About fifty thousand of its 
pojiulation are colored, the 
remainder being .\mericans, 
Spaniards and various Euro- 
pean nationalities. The city 
was founded in 1519, and at 
present consists of the " old 
town" and "new town," the latter outside the walls which 
surrounded the former. Outside of the business center 
Havana is a city of beautiful suburbs, with handsome man- 
sions and villas, numerous parks and miles of fashionable 




Statue of the West Indies, on the Prado, Havana 




Interior View of Cathedral, Havana 

avenues, boulevards and promenades. The city proper, how- 
ever, is not quite so prepossessing, although the buildings 
are magnificent. It has been aptly described as " a city of 
palaces fronting on alleys" — the streets are so narrow and 
invariably dirty. 

One of the first things which impre.sses a visitor to 
Havana is the profusion of lu.xurious cafes and restaurants. 
The number of the.se .seems out of all proportion to other 
enterprises; but they all Hourish — eating, drinking and 
sleeping, indeed, being the things to which Spaniards always 
pay strictest attention. Good hotels, also, are numerous, 
as are all details and arrangements for good living. The 
largest hotel is the Inglaterra, the lu.xurious appointments 
and elegant .service of which are seldom surpassed in 
.\merica. Near this hotel is the Tacon Theater, recently 
purchased by an .\merican syndicate, the largest place of 
public amu.sement {excepting the bull-ring) in Havana. 

The I'laza del Toro, or bull-ring, of Havana is nearly as 
large as the one in .Madrid, which is the birthplace and 
home of this great national sport of Spain. Many of Spain's 
most celebrated cupafilla.t and mntador:! have performed in 
the Havana ring, where their prowe.ss has been as tumul- 
tuously applauded as on the peninsula, though the whole 
performance, to any one but a Spaniard, seems disgusting 
and revolting rather than entertaining. The atpnrillii.-< 
dance about the arena and torment the bull by sticking 
.short javelins into him and Haunting red rags before his eyes. 
Then, after he has become crazed with rage and fear, has 
di.semboweled two or three helpless hor.se.s. and is .so exhausted 
that he can no longer cha.se his tormentors around the ring, 
the matadnr calmly runs him through with a sword, horses 
are hitched to the carcass to drag it away, and the great 
hull-fight— the glorious national holiday of Spain, the delight 
of Spanish state.smen and great ladies -is ended. Is it 
strange that a nation, the instincts of whose people lead 
them to the enjoyment of .such depraved exhibitions, should 
have degenerated from a first-rate to a fifth-rate power, whose 
.sun is still sinking lower and lower? 

Considering the large number of cafes and places of public 
amusement, and the general demand for comfort and luxury 
in Havana, it .seems strange that there are not more clubs. 
There is but one of any C(mse(|uence — the Spanish Casino — 
but it is a model of cool elegance, with spacious corridors, 
numerous jmlim, or courts, and innumerable lounging-places. 
While there is nothing to prevent the pea.santry and poorer 
cla.sses from going there, it being really a public institutiim, 
yet they know better than to intrude them.selves into the 
haunts ruled by the grandeur of their hereditary oppres.sors. 



The building is large and handsomely fur- 
nished, and is fraiuented almost entirely 
by Spanish officials and gentlemen of rank. 
Havana has many buildings worthy 
of note, probably the most important of 
which is the old Cathedral, in which, 
reposing in a marble urn, rest the ashes 
of Christopher Columbus, the discoverer 
of America. The Cathedral is a massive 
stone structure — as, indeed, are all of the 
large buildings — presenting a venerable 
and imposing aspect from without, while 
the richness of the interior decorations is 
rarely e<|ualed. 

The ]ialace of the Captain-General, on 
nlii.spo Street, is an imposing .square man- 
sion of white granite — a deplorable con- 
trast to the miserable hovels in the poor 
quarters of the city, upon the inhabitants 
of which was assessed the burden of tax- 
ation for the .support of the grandeur and 
licentiousness of the officials sent over 
from Spain. The generous proportions 
and the elegance of arrangements in this 
man.sion, inside and out, tend to make one 
think there might have been .some truth 
in the reports regarding the reluctance of the various 
Captain-Generals to exchange its comforts for the hard- 
ships of field service against the insurgents. 

Cuba never had but one Captain-General who in any way 
concerned himself with the development of the resources of 
the island. This one just and public-spirited Sjianiard was 
Las Cas, whose reign began in 1790. He introduced many 
public improvements, established agricultural and technical 
schools and botanical gardens in Havana. These botanical 
gardens are simply elaborate parks, where the horticul- 
turist's .skill is exhibited to an unusual degree. There are 
beautiful shaded walks, rustic seats, all of the vegetation 
is most carefully and skilfully cared for, and the whole 
is mirrored in numerous small lakes or ponds. The influence 
of the just and equitable reign of Las Cas was felt for many 
years, and to it may be attributed the loyalty of the island 
in declaring war against Napoleon in 1808, when he had 
dethroned the ruling monarchs of the mother-country. The 
island was then enjoying a prosperity never equaled before 
or since. 

Historic Morro Castle, at the entrance to Havana harbor, 
is a gray mountain of grim ma.sonry, built originally as a 
fortification for harbor defense against privateers of various 
nations and roving high-sea bucaneers of an early day. In 
late vears. however, it has become more renowned as a 




Front View of Cathedral, Havana 



8 



political prison than as a fort- 
ress, not a few Americans, amonj^ 
others, havinjj: been confined in 
its dismal dungeons for alleged 
violations of the principles of 
neutrality. It has numerous large 
inclosures, or courts, in which 
prisoners were executed: or, 
more properly speaking, otiicially 
murdered. There are many Morro 
Castles, Santiago de ("uha and 
San .luan de iSierto Rico each 
having one, but this one at Ha- 
vana is older and larger than any 
of them, and is the only one de.s- 
ignated by the title Kl Morro (the 
.Morro) to distinguish it from the 
others. 

Cabanas Castle, a little farther 
up the harbor than El .Morro, is 
also a considerable fortification; 
but since the invention of the 
powerful cannon of recent years, 
the main dependence for harbor 
defense is in some new and more 
modern batteries placed at vari- 
ous points about the harbor. 

.Most of the residences of the 
better class in Havana are built 
in a .square and have an inner 
court, or patio, where the family 
spend most of their time, as it 
is much cooler than within the 
rooms of the house. Frequently 
the smaller patios are perfect 
bowers of beauty, fillecl with 
flowers and plants of every kind, 
while in the great mansions of 
the officials and others of rank 
and fortune they are large, airy 
and shady, with cool, ])olished 
floors, splashing fountains and 
lu.xurious couches amidst arbors 
of foliage and flowers, where one 
may enjoy a siesta. 

The oldest building in Havana 
at present is La Fuerza erected as a military barracks in 
l.')7."j. Its thick walls have well withstood the ravages of 
time and the elements, and it seems nearly as stanch as ever. 




Palace of the Captain-General, Havana 

A stranger in Ha- 
vana would see many 
unusual thing.s, but 
none which seems more 
1 ud i c rous or which 
more plainly shows the 
indolence of the Span- 
ish character than the 
methiid of delivering 
milk in the morning. 
Instead of the trim 
milk-wagons which we 
are accustomed to .see- 
ing in this country, 
the cows them.selves 
are driven through the 
streets, being halted in 
front of each custo- 
mer's door and the re- 
quired amount of milk 
drawn as needed. This 
method, it would seem, should at least jn-eclude all adultera- 
tion of the milk; but we would not think a Spaniard enter- 
prising enough to attempt a thing of that sort, anyhow. 




Patio, or Court, of Captain-Qeneral's Palace 




lacun I liL-atcr and ln;;lutcrra tlultl, Mu\aiia 

9 



Another common street scene in Havana which seems 
strange to one accustomed to living under a more moral 
government is the open sale of lottery tickets. They can 
be purchased at any of the news-stands, and are cried and 
sold as openly as are i)eanuts in New York. The govern- 
ment is even financially inter- 
ested in .some of the lotteries, 
and receives a handsome div- 
idend from the nefarious 
business, thus assisting in the 
robbery of its own subjects. 
Contrasted with the fact that 
the Louisiana Lottery no 
sooner grew to noteworthy 
proportions in this country 
than it was driven out, this 
fact shows the difference in 
the principles of the national 
and individual life of the two 
nations, and perhaps embodies 
the secret of the rise of one 
and the decadence of the 
other. The Spanish govern- 
ment not only tolerates, but 
upholds and supports institu- 
tions that would receive the 
censure of .society and the 
merciless condemnation of the law in the United States. 

The larger residences in Havana nearly all have large win- 
dows facing the street, and it is under or near the.se windows 
that the .'^panish lover twangs his guitar and sings of his 
love to the dark-eyed Kriinritn. The wintlows are strongly 
barred, in order that his ardor may not lead to impropriety 




Corridor in Spanish Casino, Havana 



or possible elopement, for the young lady is frequently as 
much averse to staying in as her lover is to staying out. 
But notwithstanding passionate Spanish nature, the rules of 
courtship are very strict, and the lover has no right to even 
touch his enamorata's hand until consent to the marriage has 

been secured from her parents 
and the priest. The young 
lady never goes anywhere ex- 
cept in a carriage, or volante, 
even though the distance may 
be ridiculously short. Even 
.social calls are very seldom 
allowed, and wherever the 
young lady goes she is never 
unaccompanied by a duenna, 
or elderly lady, who glaringly 
rebukes any rash swain who 
dares bestow more than a 
pa.ssing glance on her beauti- 
ful charge. A Spanish home 
is little less than a veritable 
prison for the unmarried 
daughters of the family. 
However, the young people 
manage to communicate with 
each other, usually by means 
of notes slyly passed while 
kneeling at prayers in the gloom of the old cathedrals. 
Probably the handsomest street or boulevard in Havana 
proper is the I'rado. in the northern part of the city. It is 
the only decently wide street in the city, made plea.sant by 
trees and lounging-places. Here is the "Statue of the 
West Indies." It represents an American Indian maiden 




Bull-fiKht, Ha\ana the Alalador About to Kill LI Tore 
10 




seated on a pedestal, guarded by four large 
dolphins, the whole rising from a large basin 
of clear water and forming a beautiful fountain. 
Next to Havana, Santiago is the largest city 
in Cuba, and was at one time the capital. It 
is situated in the .southeastern part of the 
island, has an excellent land-locked harbor, 
guarded by its Morro and other forts, and is 
surrounded by a fertile agricultural district. 
Here it was that the hardest fighting of the 
Spanish-.Anierican war oecurredf, and in this 
naiTow-necked harbor .\dniiral Cervera's Heet 
was "bottled uji," .May 24, 1898, and destroyed 
while attemjiting to leave the harbor .July 3d, 
by the .\merican naval forces. 

" Like Havana, Santiago is built mostly of 
stone and the streets are paved with the .same 
material. This sort of paving has been found 
necessary in this land of down-pouring torrents 
of rain and .scorching tropical sunshine. San- 
tiago has about seventy thousand people, and 
at one time was a very important commercial 
point, being the center of the principal sugar- 
raising district; but owing to the insurrection 
and the c(mse(iuent destruction of the planta- 
tions and mills, the commerce at present is 
meager and unimportant. On account of its 



A Caparilla 



being situated on low ground and 
surrounded by mountains, the mean 
temperature of Santiago is some- 
w-hat higher than that of Havana. 
Under Spanish rule it was one of 
the most unhealthful places in the 
island. The .-Vmericans, however, 
have done much to bring about a 
more healthful condition, sanita- 
ti(m being the first consideration. 
Matanzas, situated on the north- 
ern coast, about sixty miles east 
of Havana, has a population of 
fifty-six thousand, and is the second 
commercial city of Cuba. This 
latter fact is partly owing to its 
having superior means of commu- 
nication with the interior of the 
province of which it is the capital. 
It is also the most healthful of 
any of the Cuban cities, has an 
excellent harbor, and is more of a 
center of attraction for tourists 
than even Havana. Matanzas also 
has a river, the Yumuri, which, 
though neither large nor pictur- 
esque, is neverthele.ss quite valuable. 
It serves a good purpose in carry- 



A Matador 



11 



ing away much of the city's refuse, and during the wet 
season it is navigable for some distance beyond the city. 

Some of the country residences and villas near Matanzas 
are most beautiful in appearance, as well as being very com- 
fortable tropical homes. They are usually situated in the 
midst of well-kept lawns or park.s, back .some distance from 
the road, and are reached by handscmie walks and drive- 
ways. Xear .Matanzas are situated the celebrated Uellamar 
Caves, much visited by tourists. The ride along the road 
to these caves constitutes one of the greatest delights in 
going to .see them. The road it-self is one of the most per- 
fect in Cuba, and the .scenery is magnificent. Hand.some 
villas are numerous, and nature seems to have exerted herself 
to the utmost in artistic and lavish display of her charms. 

Cienfuegos is situated on the .southern coast, about midway 
of the island. It has a population of about forty thousand. 
and is a very old and picturesque city. When the Spaniards 
built their cities in Cuba they built them on the same 
massive plans as those of the mother-country, expecting 
them to stand for all time, never, of course, ex])ecting to 
relimiuish their hold on the island. Cienfuegos shows many 
instances of this sort of admirable and imposing architecture. 




Patio nf a Private Residence, Havana 



Puerto Principe, Santa Clara and Pinar del Rio are 
important inland cities, each being the capital of a province 
of the .same name. 

ileans of transportation and communication throughout 
the island are very poor. There are but few roads, and they 
are often impa.ssable at certain seasons of the year. Previous 
to the war there were one thou.sand miles of railroad in 
operation, besides about two hundred miles of private lines 
connected with the large .sugar plantations. Telegraph lines 
aggregated 2,81U miles. The unvarying indolence of Span- 
ish officials prevented quick .service either on the railroad 
or telegraph systems, both being under very inefficient man- 
agement. 

The most common means of conveyance is the volaiite. a 
sort of two-wheeled gig or phaeton, with the wheels very 
wide apart and the top very low, drawn by one horse. 

Oxen are the usual beasts of burden and draft, performing 
all the functions usually allotted to farm-horses in the United 
States. It is not uncommon to see long trains of heavily 
laden ox-carts, each drawn by two, four or six oxen, winding 
slowly along the country roads toward the towns. Mules 
are also much used, three or four being often driven tandem 
to one cart or wagon. They are used almost 
exclusively in the expres.s-wagons, delivery- 
carts, etc., in the towns. 

While the wealthy planters in the country 
districts often have large and luxurious 
mansions, most of the poorer class of farm- 
ers live in little, low, thatched shanties very 
much resembling a Yankee cow-shed. It is 
siu'iirising to note the number of people, 
little and big, who will live in one of these 
airy cabins in .seeming hai)])ine.ss and con- 
tent. .Vnd these "cabin Cubans" are the 
famous wielders of the machete, originally 
an instrument of husbandry, but which 
proved a terribly efficient weapon of war- 
fare in the hands of those accust<imed to 
its use. The machete is a very heavy knife 
with a perfectly straight blade twenty to 
thirty inches long and a handle of bone or 
tough wood - .somewhat like an .American 
C(n'n-knife, but much heavier. It was orig- 
inally designed for cutting down .sugar-cane 
and for hewing a i)athway for its owner 
through the jungles. But in the skilful 
bands of the Cuban insurgent.s. who are 
brought up to its use from infancy and 
carry it as habitually as an American does 
his penknife, it proved fully as efficient as 
a decimator of Spani.sh anatomies as it 
formerly had as an implement of industry. 
Insurgents armed with machetes usually 
came otf best when charged by Spanish sol- 
diers with their bayonets. X swinging blow 
from the back of the heavy blade would 
break the bayonet off from tl;e gun as 
though it were a straw; then the gun would 
be grasjied by the muzzle and pushed ujiward 
or aside with one hand, while the other 
swung the machete (this time striking with 
the edge of the blade), to the great discom- 
fort anil detriment of the Spaniard behind 
t he gun. a single blow often entirely severing 
the head frcmi the body. 

.\ntl this was the kind of warfare that 
was bi'ing waged in Cuba when the .\mer- 
ican troops landed on the island. While the 
in.-urgents were victorious in most of the 
small engagements which were of almost 
daily occurrence, still they were outnum- 
bered, had no means of .sustenance, and in 
most ca.ses were nearly destitute of clothing 
as well. The outlook was certainly not 



1?. 




The Botanical Uardeni>, Havana 



very encouniKing. Ami in this 
connection some praise is also due 
the rank ami file of the Spanish 
army, who were nearly as liaiily 
off as the I'ubans. Inileeii, it hail 
come to be scarcely a (juestion of 
military tactics or valor between 
the two armies, but rather which 
could survive starvation the lonjjer. 
At the time of the invasion of t'uba 
even the Spanish officers' ]iay was 
four months in arrears, while that 
af the privates was nine months; 
yet they fought bravely on, striv- 
ing to the utmost for the intangible 
cimimodity which they termed the 
"honor" of Spain, liut an empty 
stomach does not beget courage, 
and the Spaniards finally yieliled, 
jierhaps as much out of discour- 
agement at sight of the well-fed 
bodies of their foes as from real 
defeat, for they certainly outnum- 
bered the Americans, and in many 
instances, apparently, retreated al- 
most of their own accord without 
waiting to be forced. However 
this may be, certain it is that the 
Spanish army in Cuba fared little 
better than the insurgents. .And .so, when the hearty .American boys landed they foumi them.selves welcomed by a howling 
mob of ragged, half-starved men calling themselves the Cuban army, while their sneaking foes [jeered out from the bushes 
with eyes whose hungry longing was no less evident and whose faces were cadaverous and wan. 

This landing of the .Americans, by the way, was a triumph of military and naval skill and strategy. .Although the 
Spaniards knew that a landing was contemplated, they could not by any means tell where it would occur, (ieneral Shafter 
and .Admiral Sampson having carefully kejit the thirty transports containing the troops out of sight. It had been decided 
to make the landing at Baiciuiri, southeast of Santiago, where there was a small village, and a pier used by the Spanish- 
.American Iron Company, whose mines and machine-shops were in the near vicinity. (In the morning of .lune 22, ISDS, ten 
decoy transi)orts appeared otf the shore a few miles west of Santiago, near .Vcerraderos. There were several war-ships with 
them, which immediately began a noisy bombardment of the hills along the shore. Lively movements were seen on the 

transports, boats were lowered and all preparations apparently 
made for debarking a large force. .Accordingly, Spanish troops 
were hurried from all directions to repel the supplied landing 
party. Soon the bluffs swarmed with Spanish soldiers, guns 
were being hastily mounted, and all was excitement and activ- 
ity on the shore, while from the shijis large detachments of 
reinforcements could be seen coming on the ilouble-(|uick from 
all directions. Then the transports hauled u]) their iMtats, the 
big guns of the war-ships ceaseii their bellowing, and the whole 
fleet steamed rapidly away to Kaii|uiri, thirty miles further 
east, where, in the meantime, the nucleus of the fleet had 
made its appearance, and, owing to the de])letion of the force 
ashore con.se(iuent upon the ctmcentration thirty miles west- 
ward, was experiencing no great difliculty in ett'ecting a 
landing, although there were some (piite good fortifications 
on the shore. The people in the village were frightened nearly 
out of their .senses, as the Sjianiurds had told them that the 
Americans mercilessly massacred all who fell into their hands. 
They fled into the Imshes, and could not be per.suaded to show 
themselves. Finally, however, a big colored trooper of the 
Ninth Cavalry caught a little pickaninny who was just dis- 
appearing into a thicket clad only in consternation and a 
diminutive .shirt with a very short tail. The little fellow's 
big black eyes rolled with fright: but the big .troojier filled 
his chubby fists with sugar which he had begged in the cook's 
galley on the ship, the oflicers gave him nickels and coppers, 
and when he went back to his mama he proved so efficient 
an emissary that the village was soon filled with women and 
children, who were delighted to find their homes unmolested 
and themselves at liberty to jiursue their usual avocations 
without hindrance or interference. Starving l>ands of Cuban 
soldiers soon began to come in al.so, and the commi.ssary 
de|iartment was severely taxed in providing for them. The 
fcdlowing account of this phase of the incident was published 
in an .American newspaper at the time of its occurrence: 




Avenue of Royal Palm.s 



13 



/ 




"The condition of these Cuban 
patriots with regard to the need 
of food was such as to appeal at 
once to the heart of the American 
commander, and orders were issued 
to furnish them with an immediate 
supply. Incidents of this kind were 
constantly occurring from the time 
that the Americans first landed on 
the island. Many of the Cubans 
had been without substantial food 
so long that they fairly gorged 
themselves. So desperate was their 
condition that four of Garcia's 
men. including an aide on General 
Castillo's staff, died from the ef- 
fects of overeating. General Cas- 
tillo's aide asked for food, and 
received some side of bacon, which 
he devoured raw. being too hungry 
to wait until the meat could be 
cooked. He was found dead the 
ne.xt morning sitting under a tree. 



Havana Express-wagon 

Contentment was written on his countenance and the remains 
of his feast were clasped tightly to his heart. Three other 
Cubans, after being supplied with food by the steward of one of 
the .American transports, gorged theni.'^elves and swam ashore. 
They died before morning, and their bodies were swollen to enor- 
mous proportions. Many other Cuban patriots, unable to with- 
stand the pleasures of a 'square meal,' were taken to the army 
hospital. .Ml were in the last stages of starvation when given 
food from the .\merican supply. Their condition was so deplor- 
able as to bring tears to the eyes of many an .\merican soldier." 
Previous to this landing of the main body of troops in Cuba 
a foothold had been .secured on the island by a little band of 
si.x hundred marines from the cruiser Marblehead, under the 
commanii of Lieutenant-Colonel Huntington, who landed at 
Guantanamo Bay, east of Baiquiri, and intrenched themselves 
on a tlat-topped hill, which they named Camp McCalla, in 
honor of Captain .McCalla of the Marlilehead. They landed 
on .June lOth, and for .several days had some very lively fighting, 
being attacked nightly by bodies of Spaniards outnumbering 




Selling Lottery-tickets On the Street, Havana 




Cuhan 



' AMIk-woKon," Shovting the Alethod of Delivering Milk in Havana 

14 



them three to one; but they gallantly held 
their ground, and lost but two men killed, 
though several were wounded. The object 
of this first invasion was to secure a .safe 
landing-place for the army proper, which it 
was then intended should be landed at that 
place; but Daiquiri was afterward selected, 
as being an easier place to get ashore and 
considerably nearer to Santiago, the objec- 
tive point of the campaign, ("amp McCalla, 
however, was not abandoned until the 
success of the landing at Baiquiri was a.s- 
sured. The brilliant and successful campaign 
of the American army subsequent to its 
landing at Daiquiri is too well known in 
detail by every American citizen to need 
mention here. At Siboney, at Seville, at 
La Quasima, at El Caney and San .luan the 
intrepid bravery of American s<d(liery not 
only demoralized the Spaniards, but aston- 
ished the world. .\t the final charge up 
San .luan hill, where ditches had to be 
leaped, wire fences surmounted and other 
obstacles overcome, the men never wavered, 

but went straight for the little stone fort 

on top of the hill, from which a murderous 
fire was poured upon them. From this forti- 
fied hill the Americans drove three times their own number 
of Spanish soldiers, and as the latter fied into Santiago they 
exclaimed, "The pigs charged up the hill like fools! They're 
madmen — imbeciles! They don't know what danger is!" 

Instances of per.sonal bravery and utter disregard of dan- 
ger were so numerous in all the engagements in Cuba that 
no one man could be singled out as a greater hero than his 
comrades. Military representatives from many of the nations 
of Europe were on the ground, and it is safe to say that 
their ideas of the fighting abilities of the "commercial Yan- 
kees" underwent a considerable change. The opini(m of one 
of them. Count von Goetzen, of the German army, will sufiice 
to show the impressions which may be safely said to have 
been created throughout Europe. 'The Count said: 

"The fighting of the .\mericans was wonderfully done, 
wonderfully. The Spaniards at San .Juan fought well, but 




;milSi 




A Street-corner Fruit-stand, Havana 



A Fruit-vender, Havana 

the Americans fought better. The shooting of the Spaniards 
was fairly good; that of the Americans was surprising. The 
men sprang to their work with tremendous vigor. It was 
an important le.sson from which other nations may profit. 
I did not see much of the work of the volunteens, but I am 
told it was fully up to the regulars. The dash and spirit 
displayed by the Sixth and Si.xleenth Infantry, which came 
under my observation, was marvelous. I never saw troops 
fight better." 

.\ typical incident .showing the kind of men who were in 
the American lines is related of a soldier from New Mexico. 
He was severely wounded, being shot through the thigh. He 
limjied back to the hospital, where he was told that owing 
to the rush of business nothing could be done fur him at that 
moment. Instead of waiting for his turn, he walked back 
through the woods to the firing line and crawled along with 
the rest, firing regularly and drag- 
ging his damaged limb after him. 
During the battle Colonel Wood, 
who was always in the thick of the 
fight, saw a young trooper who was 
apparently skulking about fifty feet 
behind his comrades. Thinking he 
had at last discovere<l one case of 
cowardice. Colonel Wood ordered 
him sharply to advance. With an 
effort the boy pulled himself to- 
gether, hobbled forward and liegan 
firing, saying to the Colonel. " You 
see, my leg was a little stifi', sir." 
Colonel Wood looked, and .saw that 
a Mauser bullet had plowed a fur- 
row about twelve inches long in 
the side of the young fellow's leg. 
Since the war the average .Vmer- 
ican citizen has a respect for our 
colored soldiers which could have 
been inspired in no other way than 
through their gallant behavior in 
the fights around Santiago. At 
Siboney a big colored fellow of the 
Tenth Cavalry was crouching be- 
hind a rock loading and firing as 
coolly as though at target jirac- 
tice, when scmie of his comrades 
called his attention to the fact that 
there was a great, gaping, bloody 



15 




A Mixed Family of Cubans 

it may seem, they began laughing at each other most heartily, 
as well as he could, for his articulation was none of the best, 'you 



wound in his thigh where a .Mauser bullet 
hail plowed through. He laughed and said, 
"Oh, that's all right. That's been there for 
some time. It's too interesting here for me 
to leave just now." 

Dr. .James Robb Church, of Washington, 
D. C, who won fame for his bravery and 
efficiency as a hospital surgeon on the 
field, .says: 

"Stories might be told without number 
to show the absolute lack of fear those col- 
ored troopers displayed, as well as their 
nerve when wounded, but two incidents that 
came under my own observation may be 
worth repeating. 

"Two troopers of the Tenth who were 
wounded in the charge on San .Juan hill 
were coming down together, arm in arm. 
One man had been hit by a Mauser bullet 
in .such a way that his left eye was fairly 
hanging down on his cheek, while the other 
had been shot in the jaw and had lost about 
a (|uarter-.section of his face. He of the 
bum lamp was whistling as if nothing had 
happened, but the other couldn't whistle. 
Suddenly they both stopped, and, strange as 
'Well, John.son,' said the man with the wounded jaw, 
suttinly would lalf if you could only see yo'self with that 




1 he Poor— Suburbs of Havana 



eye a-hangin' out on yo' cheek. It sho' 
does make you look foolish.' 'What you talk- 
in' 'bciut, man'?' retorted the other. "You 
ain't got no brag comin', fo' a nigger with 
as little mouth as you's got left ain't no 
Apollinaris Keveldere.' 

" .Now, how about that for cool nerve? 

".\nd again, it was on the third of ,JuIv if 
I remember correctly. We had been both- 
ered considerably by the shrapnel shells, 
and I for one must admit that I do not 
appreciate the beauties of shrapnel. I was 
standing out in front of the hospital tent 
when I overheard a conversation between 
two colored troopers who were on their way 
down to a stream for water. 

'"I don't care for them Mau.ser bullets,' 
said one of them, ' for when vou hear one of 




A Typical Home of the "Cabin Cubans" 



16 



them you knows it's done past and can't hit vou, hut 1 sho'ly 
would tjive my interest in h I et I couhl find out whar is 
that cannon that shoots them camp-kittles full of rocks. 
They 's a ditfunt proposition aitofjether.'" 

Lieutenant-Colonel Koosevelt (now {governor of Xew York I 
distini;uished himself in many of the en}i;a<;ements. notably so 
at San Juan. Fully a hundred feet in advance of his men, wav- 
ing his machete and yelling in true cow-boy style, he dashed 
up the hill toward the block-hou.-se from which the Spaniards 
were pouring a merciless fire upon him and his men. His 
horse was shot under him, but as the animal fell the doughty 
Colonel gave a lea]i. landed on his feet, snatched a ritle from 
a wounded .soldier and ran on up the hill, firing as he ran. 

Colonel Wood, also of the Uinigh Uiders. was likewise noted 
for his cool nerve. While the men were lying on the ground 
at San .Juan under a murderous fire, waiting for orders to 
move forward, he rode calmly out in front of the line, dis- 
mounted, and walked slowly up and down, talking to his men 
and even .ioking with .-fome of his otlicers. The horse seemed 




A Country Villa Near Matanzas 



to partake of his master's intrepid spirit, calmly grazing as he followed the Colonel, totally unmindful of the bullets which 

were clipi>ing the grass from under his very nose. One of the first officers to lose his life in Cuba was the gallant Cai)tain 

Capron. He was leading the ailvance at La (^uasima, when 
the small force marched right into a trap that had been laid 
for them, and found themselves surrounded by Spaniards on 
three sides. Only once did the little troop hesitate, and that 
was when they saw their captain sink to the ground mortally 
wounded. Some of the men immediately went to him, but he 
motiimed them away, saying, "Don't mind me, boys; I'm all 
right. Oo on into the thicket." He asked Sergeant Hell to 
let him take his gun a moment, and kneeling down, he i|uickly 
bowled over a couple of Spaniards who were skulking in 
fancied concealment about two hundred yards to the right. 
Then weakness overcame him and he was borne away to the rear 
in a dying condition, after giving Sergeant Dell a message to 
his wife and bidiling him good-by in a calm and cheerful voice. 
>^ergeant Hamilton Fish, .Ir., of New York, another brave 
young officer, lost his life that day in the .same fight, being 
"the first, man to fall under the fire of the hidden Spaniards. 
He was rushing headlong in front of the little company, when 
he paused long enough to shoot a Spaniard who was firing 
from the cover of a dense thicket. His ]iause gave another 
Spaniard opportunity to make sure his aim, and Sergeant Fish 
fell mortally wounded. He dragged himself to a tree and sat 
with his back against it, Cajitain ('apron and others standing 
around him and protecting him from further bullets. Before 
Fish was borne away the ground ai'ound him was literally 
covered with empty rifie-shells from the guns of his com- 
rades. Ten minutes later Captain Caimm himself fell, as 
|ireviously related. Sergeant Fish lived twenty minutes after 
being shot, well knowing that his wound was fatal, yet he 
never lost his cool self-pos.session nor allowed himself to fiinch 
from pain. He was as calm as though sitting at his <iesk in 
an office, and left messages for all bis friends. Then taking 

a lady's tiny gold watch from his belt he gave it to his mes.smate as a .souvenir, and closing his eyes, died as an American 

hero should, without a com])laint or struggle. Sergeant Fish was only twenty-four years of age, and every opportunity 

that wealth and position could secure were open to him, yet 

he left them all to fight for Cuba's freedom. In stature 

and physiijue he was a young giant, standing six feet three 

inches in his stockings; was an accomplished athlete, with 

wonderful strength and endurance; as bold as a lion, and his 

movements were as ijuick and graceful. Colonel Koosevelt, who 

had known him for years, said a braver man never lived -and 

Roo.sevelt is a good judge of bravery. .\n incident occurred 

while the regiment was stationed at San Antonio, Texas, 

which fitly illustrates this young hero's character and prompt- 
ness in an emergency. ()ne day the regiment was at drill, 

and were dashing madly across the jirairie near the hut of a 

poor Mexican family, when suddenly a little four-year-idd 

child rose from the grass and stood looking wonderingly at 

the horses dashing down u))on her. I)eath .seemed unavoid- 
able for the little one, when suddenly Sergeant Fish spurred 

ahead of his comrades and put to good u.se a trick he had 

learned from the cow-boys. He swung over and snatched the 

child from the ground, and the next instant was dashing 




Cuba's Future Statesmen 




La Fuerza, the Oldest liuililin.^ 



Havana 



17 




Oxen and Carts— Mode of Transportation On Cuba's Country Roads 



merrily toward the Mexican's hut 
with the little girl in his arms — 
"escorting the lady home," as he 
said. The fact that he had shown 
remarkable presence of mind and 
performed an act of bravery never 
seemed to occur to him, and he 
treated the whole matter as a 
joke. But that night a Mexican 
woman came to the camp and pre- 
sented Fish with a pewter image 
of St. Jo.seph, which she said her 
little girl had worn ever since she 
was baptized, and had several times 
been pre.served from danger by it. 
The woman enjoined Fish to wear 
it constantly, telling him that he 
need not fear danger as long as he 
had it with him. He took it, and 
laughingly hung it on a string 
around his neck. A few days be- 
fore his death, however, he told 
one of his comrades that he had lost it, and it was remarked that he seemed somewhat worried about it. It was not found 
on his body after his death, and it is said that he told some of his comrades that he expected to be killed that day. 

Of the senior commanding officers, it is 
hard to say who was the most popular, each 
being fairly worshiped by the men under 
him. General Shafter himself won the good- 
will and respect of the army on his first 
appearance as commanding officer. To look 
at the General when passive he gives the 
impression of a great unwieldy mass of 
inactivity which no power could move to 
action. Nearly six feet high, his immense 
girth makes him appear much shorter. But 
he has a soldier's bearing: his broad shoul- 
ders seem made to wear a general's straps, 
and on the morning of his first appearance, 
as he came dashing down the line mounted 
on an immense charger sixteen hands high, 
every bit of his huge body animated, his 
deep voice shouting orders and his long arms 
emphasizing them with sweeping gestures, 
the soldiers in the lines broke into involun- 
tary cheers of admiration for their general 
Shafter is not a fancy soldier, but he has 
the reputation of being a fighter -a plain, 
ordinary man with a tremendous strength 
of purpose, unyielding determination and 
indomitable energy. Soon after the inaugura- 
tion of hostilities a citizen asking Adjutant- 
General Corbin why he had appointed General Shafter to service in Cuba received this reply "Because of his rank and 
conceded ability, his vigor and his good judgment. He is one of the men in the army who have been able to do what they 
were ordered to do, not a man to find out how things can't be done." During the fighting General Shafter became sick 

from the intense heat, but he lav 




Horses Laden for Market 




plans 
brain 



A Typical Cuban Farm-house 



in his tent with maps and 
and directed the battle, his 
being as clear as usual. 

Generals Lawton, Wheeler and 
Young were everywhere in the 
thickest of the fighting, not merely 
directing by word of mouth, but 
leading and inspiring the men by 
personal example. (Jeneral Wheel- 
er especially was in his element, 
the mode of warfare being not 
dissimilar to that in which he was 
engaged in lS(i4. when, as second 
in command under (leneral X. B. 
Forest, he was busy with his cav- 
alry harassing General Sherman 
on his famous march to the sea. 
He is one of the most skilful 
skirmish fighters in the army, and 



18 



the c'uuiUry through which he led 
his men and chased the Spaniards 
from the thickets must have re- 
minded him somewhat of the hills 
and forests of tJeorgia, where, as a 
Confederate general, he sought to 
vamiuish the supporters of the Hag 
which he himself so proudly upheld 
in Tuha thirty years later. 

The campaign around Santiago 
was lengthened l)y the lack of ar- 
tillery in the .\merican army, and 
also by the difficulty of placing the 
artillery they did have in position, 
owing to the bad condition of the 
roads. The guns had to be hauled 
through dense thickets of under- 
brush, up precipitous hills, across 
swift-running streams and over 
roads where they .sank to the axle 
in the mud. .V battery commanded 
by Captain Capron, father of the 
young officer killed at La Quasima, 
was mounted on a hill commanding 
the enemy's works, and after it 
was fairly in position and secured 
the range the Spaniards were soon 
fleeing from their intrenchments 
and .seeking refuge in the rifle-pits 
directly adjacent to the city. 

The victories of the .\merican 
forces in Cuba were won largely 
through the same factor as were 
tho^e on the water — the superiority 
of the individual .\merican over the 
individual Spaniard. The United 
St-ites soldier is a big, self-reliant, 
brainy fellow — a superb specimen 
of manhood, mentally and phys- 
ically. The Spani.sh .soldier is an 
ill-treated menial — the lackey of 
the officers, and in action dares not 
make a move which has not been 
ordered. In .America we raise big, 
intelligent, lion-hearted men — men 
of perfect individuality and capable 
of independent action, yet ready 
to carry out with desperate valor 
any order given by a superior. In 
Spain (in all Europe, in fact) the 
individual soldier is a mere ma- 
chine, considered simply as a part 
of the great mass. He knows 




Santiago's Morro, On the bast Side of the Harbor Entrance 




The Harbor and City of Santiago de Cuba 



nothing, he thinks nothing, he dare do nothing e.xcept what he is told, and his superiors stand ever ready to inflict direst 
punishment for the .slightest breach of discii)line, be it intentional or otherwise on his part. This distinction was evidently 

noticed by Major de (Irandprey, 
military altacht of the French em- 
bassy at Washington, who was 
present at the fighting around 
Santiago, and who, in giving his 
impre.ssions, said: 

■■ I have the most complete ad- 
miration for the .American soldiery. 
They are a superb body, individ- 
ually and as an army, and I suppose 
not throughout the world is there 
such a splendid lot of lighting men. 
It is the fighting characteristic of 
the men which is most apparent. 
They are aggressive, eager for 
action, never needing the voice of 
an officer to push them forward. 
.\nother marked characteristic is 
The Spanish Block-hou»e On San Juan Hill the self-reliance of each man: what 

19 







.14 




One of the Bis Sugar-mills of the Island of Cuba 



we call the character of ' initiative.* 
It is almost unknown in European 
armies, where every movement and 
the move to meet each action of 
the enemy awaits the initiative of 
an officer. But with your men they 
fight to the front, meeting each 
emergency a.s it arises, overcoming 
obstacles by their own initiative. 
Such self-reliant fighting men make 
an exceptionally impetuous army, 
for every unit contributes to th& 
irre-sistible onward movement. 
The Spani.sh troops do not have 
this same characteristic. They are 
more passive, more cautious. Be- 
sides, the impetuosity of such 
fighting material has the efl'ect of 
inspiring a morale among the 



troops, making them feel that success is a.s.sured, and at the same time carrying disorder and depression to the ranks of the 
enemy." It is well that some such explanation as the above can be made, for a wondering world demands a reason for 
the ridiculous spectacle of a few hundred undiseii)lined volunteers repeatedly driving three times their own number of 
soldiers from strong fortifications and putting them to fiight — and those soldiers veterans of one of Europe's boasted large 
standing armies. .\ further contrast between the soldiery of the United States and Spain, and the spirit actuating them, is. 
shown in the enlisting of men in the two nations. In Spain military service is compulsory, and can be avoided only by the 




House of the Superintendent of One of the Large Sugar Plantations 

payment of one thousand five hundred pesetas. Before the Cuban war broke out the sum raised annually by this means 
was about nine million pesetas, but within a few months after the outbreak of the rebellion in 1895 the sum rose to 
twenty-seven million pesetas, and in the first eight months of LS!»7 the amount .so rai.sed was forty-two million iie.seta.s. in 
spite of boasted Spani.sh patriotism and the oft-repeated declaration that every Spaniard was only too anxious to shed the 
last drop of his blood in (lefen.se of the "honor and glory of Spain." The contrasting of the above facts with a record of 
the scenes in the United States immediately succeeding the declaration of war cannot be very comforting to Spaniards 
or their friends. When President 
McKinley called for one hundred 
and twenty-five thousand volun- 
teers nearly one million responded. 
Crowds around the recruiting-offices 
in large cities had to be dispensed 
by the police, and applicants were 
compelled to form in line and take 
their turns before the examining 
boards to prevent a crush that 
would re.sult in the entire .suspen- 
sion of the proceedings. And 
these recruits were the fiower of 
young American manhood -many 
of them wealthy, cultured, holders 
of lucrative positions, and with all 
the ties of home and kindred to 
make life plea.sant; yet they were 
anxious to leave it all and enlist in 
a war to free a struggling people 
from oppression. 

While .\merica's war with Spain 
was a strictly unselfish one, and a Field of Vuelta Abajo Tobacco, in the Province of Pinar del Rio 

20 




wanfti entirely in the interests of freeiioni 
from tyranny and relief fmni unjust oppres- 
sion and cruelty as intiieted on the Cubans, 
yet the results attained are and will be of 
great beneht to this country. For years 
the United States has been the market for 
eighty or ninety per cent of Cuba's surplus 
products of sugar, tobacco, timber, etc.. ytt. 
despite our nearne.-!S, we have been able to 
furnish very few imports to the island. 
These consist mostly of manufactured arti- 
cles, machinery, breadstutf.s, etc., and were 
furnished for the most part by tlie mother- 
country, who, no doubt, highly appreciated 
this market of her own making, where she 
could set her own high price on her mer- 
chandise and collect in person from her 
subjects. United States competition, which 
could have furnished every article of imi)urt 
to Cuba at a lower price than Spain or any 
other country, was e.\cluded by means of a 
taritf so high as to be prohibitive. This was 
a policy not used by Spain against any coun- 
try other than the United States, ami sh:3 
doubtless took a great deal of complacent 
comfort in the thought that .she was depriv- 
ing the " Yankee pigs" of a market worth many millions of 
dollars annually. However, the market is now open; the 
taritfs have been removed or reduced to a reasonable basis, 
and our products are welcomed to the island, being much 
cheaper than those from Europe, on account of the shorter 
distance necessary to ship them. Thus we are rewarded with 
the first fruits of our victory in a philanthropic war. 

.\lthough the protocol formally su-;pending hostilities was 
signed .\ugust 12, 1898, the Spanish evacuation of Cuba 
was not completed at the end of the year. .Association with 
the .\merican .soldiery and the treatment accorded them at 
their hands seems to have opened the eyes of the Spanish 
soldiers to the kind of treatment they had previously been 
subjected to at the hands of their own countrymen. They 
had believed that all soldiers were treated as they were 
treated. They had been carefully kept in ignorance of the 
fact that it is not a soldier's duty to play valet to his 




Tropical Housu Un the Outskirts ul A\utai>/a.s, in Cuba 

officers — blacking their boots, keeping their trappings in 
repair, and even performing more menial and unsavory tasks 
tending to lower the jiride and self-res])ect of any man. In 
truth, it mattered little whether the soldiers considered 
these tasks a part of their duty to their country or not, for 
they had no choice in the matter. They were not even asked 
to do these things; they w'ere ordered; and the least hes- 
itancy in obeying orders meant .severe punishment, hanging 
by the thumbs Ijeing not an uncommon form. Besides all 
tiiese woes, the Spanish soldiers in I'uba were not paid, hav- 
ing nearly a year's wages due them at the time of the signing 
of the protocol. .\nd yet they sujiposed that they were as 
well off as any other soldiers, until they saw the difference 
with their own eyes. In the first place, none of them 
were killed as soon as captured; not only were they not 
harmed in any way, but they were actually treated as men — 
not dog.s — for the first time in their lives. They could 




On the Yumurl River, Matanzas 

21 




Un the Road to the Bellamar Caves, Matanzas 

American private always saluted an officer respectfully he 

between two gentlemen of equality than an inferior recognizing a superior. 



scarcely believe it. but they were deeply interested in knowing 
why it was so, they at first suspecting some sinister motive 
behind it all. Close observation, however, finally convinced 
them that it was the usual American way of doing thing.s, 
and their amazement knew no bounds. They had never before 
doubted that their country was the greatest and most enlight- 
ened in the world. They had been told that the Americans 
were a mongrel race — perfect barbarians, delighting in cruelty 
and not in any way reseml)ling civilized soldiers; yet they 
found themselves well treated by these so-called "Yankee 
pigs." Furthermore, they could not help but notice that these 
same "pigs" did not seem to justify any of the things that 
had been .said about them. They were not "pigs" at all — 
they were educated gentlemen; and in spite of themselves the 
Spaniards felt mean and shoddy beside the.se big, manly, 
generous-minded Americans. They noticed, further, that even 
the .Vmerican privates had an independent swing in their walk 
and were in no sen.se the servants of the officers; that while an 
did not grovel — it seemed more in the nature of a courtesy 
.•\nd the officers sometimes even bowed to the 




_>«*»*»'-'>-*-^« * 






i^m 



A Cuban Harmer and Mis hamilv at Mome 



privates and .seemed to respect them! Orders were often given in the form of a request, and it seemed as though the 
soldiers took pleasure in obeying them. It was all too wonderful for the ignorant .Spanish mind to comprehend immediately, 
but gradually he began to understand the 
position he and his nation occupied in the 
world's progre.ss. It is safe to .say that 
more civilization has been wrought among 
the Spaniards during this brief mingling 
with .\mericanism than has been accom- 
plished in years in the mother-country, and 
if their captivity had continued long enough 
there is reason to think that they would 
have come to believe that the doctrines of 
freedom and independence were good and 
wholesome. Indeed, they had already begun 
to show some spirit of independence before 
they left Cuba. Perhaps they had acquired 
a covert liking for the new kind of life they 
had discovered — a life free from the cutfs 
and kicks of officers; perhaps they thought 
that a life in Cuba or .America wouldn't be a 
bad proposition in exchange for the old life 
of drudgery and abuse in Spain. Whatever 
the cause, certain it is that a large body of 
Spanish soldiers in Cuba rebelled, mutinied, 
and declared they would not leave the island 
until they received their back pay for ser- Cuban 




an. with Oxen and Wooden Plow 



vices in the army, and it is said that they did 
not seem espetially overjoyed when Spain 
hastily paid them and loaded them on her 
transports. 

The (luestion now ajjitatin;; I'uba and 
oc'i.-upying much publie attention in the 
I'nited States is the future disposition and 
government of the island. The last clau.se 
of the re.solutions adopted by the United 
States Senate, on April 19, 189S, reads as 
follows: 

"That the United States hereby disclaim 
any disjiosition or intention to exercise -sov- 
ereignty, jurisdiction or control over said 
island except for the pacification thereof; 
and asserts its determination, when that is 
accomplished, to leave the government and 
control of the island to its people." 

The pr(mii.ses made by a great nation 
cannot be rudely thrust aside and forgot- 
ten; and yet the United States cannot now 
relinquish her hold upon t'uba and leave her ^ Volante, 

subject to internal dissensions no less destructive than those other 
Now that the United States has relieved the island from the yoke 
to desert and leave her to her own resources in the future. It is 









Cienfuegos from Avenue H 



the Most Common Conveyance in Cuba 

troubles from which she was .so recently released. 

of tyranny and oppression, it would not be justice 
our duty, since we have interested ourselves in her 
welfare, and have sacrificed the 
best blood of our nation in .secur- 
ing her freedom, to see to it that 
the future of Cuba is made secure 
against any c(mtingency which may 
arise. To desert her now would be 
to leave her to the mercy of all the 
di.sconcerting influences which are 
sure to arise in the formation of a 
new government — when new par- 
ties are born, lines of contention 
for the first time drawn, and a jieo- 
ple who have practised nothing but 
the arts of belligerent warfare for 
years are for the first time in their 
lives trying to bring peaceful pros- 
perity out of a chaos of destitution 
and poverty: a task which, to say 
the least, may prove beyond their 
powers of statesmanshi)), even 
though they may in a patriotic 
and unselfish spirit attempt it. .\ 
still more imjiortant feature of the 
situation lies in the fact that the 
present government of the republic 
of Cuba is not strong enough to 



protect itself and enforce the prin- 
ciples it may adopt. Therefore, the 
protection and assistance of the 
United States is for the time being 
doubly necessary. 

It is estimated that it will take 
at least five years to restore Cuba 
to a state of i)eace and i)r(isi)erity. 
to rebuild the sugar-mills and plan- 
tations which have been destroyed, 
regain the commerce which has 
been lost, and establish amicable 
relatiims with other countries. .Ml 
this must be done in addition to 
establishing a proper government 
on the island itself. Projects for 
selfish aggrandizement will be in- 
augurated, and must be discovered 
and defeated: vice in various forms 
must be eradicated; and the prin- 
ciples of " honor to whom honor is 
due " and " the greatest good to the 





A Street in Santiago de Cuba 



IWIBt 




Captain Capron's Battery Ready for Action 



-Maity^aiL-y-rqB^Biy^l 



greatest number" must be strictly 
adhered to during these first years, 
when precedents and principles 
will be established for "the gui- 
dance (jf future generations on 
the island. 

During the latter part of the 
year 1898 a Cuban commission, 
composed of the leading spirits of 
the insurgent government, and 
headed by Ceneral Calixto Garcia, 
visited the United States for the 
Iiurpose of acjuainting Congress 
and the President with the desires 
of the people of Culia. Some agita- 
tion had si)rung up in this country 
in favor of annexing the island, 
but the General ijuickly squelched 
it by declaring that tlie jieojile of 
Cuba had implicit faith and trusted 
in the United States to give Cuba 
a free and independent government 
eventually, as was promised in the 
Senate resolutions. He also stated 
that while all Cuba is willing and 
anxious for American occupation 
of the island at present, there is 
no sentiment in favor of ultimate 
annexation, as had been .'Jtated in 
this country, but that "free Cuba" 
was the watchword now as ever. 
In fact. General Garcia placed the 
United States on her honor in the 
niatter. and, without in the least 
intimating such a thing, managed 
to convey the impre.ssion that ulti- 
mate annexation would only re.suit 
from the exercise of force," which, 
in the light of past events, would 
be very unbecoming on the part of 
the United States at this time. 

liut annexation is not necessary 
to the securing of an adequate re- 
ward for the part we have taken 



in the liberation of Cuba. It is 
already settled that absolute com- 
mercial reciprocity shall be estab- 
lished between the United States 
and Cuba, and there is not a place 
in the world where the .American 
will have a more thorough welcome 
or have greater chances to conduct 
money-making enterprises. 

Former owners of large plan- 
tations which have been totally 
destroyed during the war, and are 
now nothing but immense wastes 
of barrenness, have not the heart 
to begin the task of reconstruction 
ami re|)eat their arduous labors of 
earlier yeans. Rather thev will sell 
Iheir lands for one half their value, 
and here .American capital has a 
chance. Cuba in her i)almiest days 
has never been developed to a third 
of her capacity. There are vet vast 
tracts of virgin forest aiid grass 
land where no attempt has "been 
made to reap the reward which the 
rich soil offers. .Much of the rich- 
est lanil in the United States was 
originally covered with forest.s, in 
which small " clearings " were made 








Cuban Insurirents in a Forest Stronghold 
24 



^i 



'fev 



%i«.f 



Ik^ 




Filling the \s ;u Hiillu 




An Outpost of Camp McCalla, Quantanamo Bay, Cuba 

Spanish sovereiKnty. The deplorable filth 
which has previously existed has lieeii the 
main factor in the prevalence of yellow 
fever in the island, and it is hoped that 
under the new rule of cleanliness and proper 
.sewerage this dread disease may be success- 
fully combatted, and perhaps stamped out 
altogether. 

Whatever may be the final outcome, the 
present and future of Cuba are coiirdinate, 
for the power that has secure<l the ime 
guarantees the other. .\s the darkest phases 
of the present are brighter than the most 
ha]ipy recollections of the past, .so will the 
future eclipse the present in all that pei- 
tains to the happiness and content of a 
people and the strength and stability of a gov- 
ernment. I'nder the protection and guiiiance 
of Columbia, "the IJem of the dcean" and 
" the Mother of Republics," let us hope that 
Cuba will soon take her place among the 
nations of the world, limited in power only 
by the number of her .square miles, and in 
happiness and jirosperity only by the will of 
her liberty-loving people. 

25 



for fields, where now it seems as though there never were any 
trees. Nothing of this kind has ever been done in Cuba. 
.Agricultural i)ursuits have been carried on only in the great 
I)lains of the island, away from the encroachments of the forest. 
It would be hard to exaggerate the pi>ssibilities which judic- 
ious capital may effect in developing the island. It is certain, 
however, that in the past immense wealth has been created 
and aksorbed by officials who have been sent over from Spain 
in poverty and have gone back the posses.sors of many millions 
accumulateii in a few years. Besides the enormous sums 
appro]iriated by these officials, and despite all pernicious mi.s- 
governmenl, Culia h;is never failed to pay Spain a handsome 
revenue annually. With all this immense wealth of resources 
properly managed, and the affairs of the island .justly admin- 
istered, Culia should .soon become an opulent and substantial 
country, with a commercial importance greater than she has 
ever po.ssessed, and totally unapproached by any other country 
of similar dimensions. 

It is not at all probable that after the complete evacuation 
of the island by the Spanish soldiery any great force of Amer- 
icans will be nece.ssary in Cuba. The island is sated with 
war and iioverty, and the entire energies of her people will 
henceforth be devoted to reimilding and restoring the pros- 
perity which should .justly be theirs. It is said that all sounds 
are musical to (me who is just restored to hearing, and 
uniloubtedly any kind of government administered in Cuba 
by officials elected by the peo])le of the island w'ill be more 
gratefully received by them than any sort of Spanish rule 
would be. They will not be easily irritated by the mistakes 
of those unaccustomed to rule, but will accei)t everything 
as it is, fully believing it to be better than 
the best they could ho|)e for under Si)ain, 

Early in December, 1S98, Captain-l.Jeneral 
Blanco embarked for Spain from Havana, 
-^^^^ and with his departure Spanish authority 
B^^H virtually ceased, although the island was 
"^^^^B not formally turned over to the Americans 
^^r until somewhat later. The government will 
~ doubtless be largely in the hands and entirely 

under the supervision of the I'nited State.s, 
which supervision, however, will be grad- 
ually withdraw'n, and Cuba will eventually 
be found governing herself without know- 
ing from what date to reckon her new era. 
Already the .Americans in the island have 
worked some great changes in the .sanitary 
conditions of the cities, a thing which 
seems never to have been thought of under 




\i lillii', Mfi iIk n\ li ^ h Ml ^ 111. 




view of the Harbor of San Juan, Porto Rico, from the Inglaterra Hotel 



PORTO RICO 



The West Indian Possession of the United States 




'OR four hundred years Spanish rule in 
Porto (Spanish i^uerto) Rico has been not 
less absolute and unfair than in Cuba. 
That the atrocities enacted in Cuba have not 
L.« » .. " _ ■ lieen duplicated in Porto Rico was owing to 
[\<^,'^ ihe difference in the temper of the people and 
k ,\.<>" ■ in the lack of temptation afforded to corrupt 
''■^O^ ■' ti^'^'ernors and officials. 

Jli>\((?i?n The Porto Ricans have rebelled on various 
iWfi'WS occasions, but only for the purpose of righting 
• •♦^■■••# civil and ])olitical wrongs, not actual outrages 
against home and domesticity as in Cuba. They have 
striven for justice in a half-hearted way, which never 
would have secured it, and they have the unrelenting rebel- 
liousness of their brethren in Cuba to thank for the ultimate 
securing of their rights and their annexation to the greatest 
of earth's nations. The Cubans fought fiercely and unre- 
lentingly with the sword for actual liberty and freedom from 
Spanish sovereignty, while the I'orto Ricans only revolted 
occasionally to e.scape unjust taxation or in an effort to 
place natives instead of Spaniards in ottice. But, though 
the Spanish have always been a small minority of the pop- 
ulation (not over twenty per cent), they always contrived, 
through the coiiperation of the mother-country, to hold all 
the offices and control all sources of revenue. Xeedless to 
say this jtolicy has been reversed since the little rectangular 
isle became a posse.^sion of the United States. 

In early days the rich commerce and treasure of the island 
made it the prey of pirates and bucaneers from all nations, 
and for several years the Caribs ravaged the eastern 
provinces, carrying away untold trea.sure. French pirates 
entirely destroyed the town of San (lerman in the year 
1521), and in 1.59.") Sir Francis Drake menaced San -Juan, but 
finally withdrew without having accomplished anything. In 
1()1.") the Dutch attempted a conquest, but were rei)ulsed, as 
were the English also in ItJTS; in the latter ca.se the S|)an- 
iards being assisted by a hurricane, which destroyed many 
of the English ve.ssels. The English evidently thought the 
tempest had much to do with their failure, for they made 
three subsequent attacks on the island, but were repulseil in 
each instance by the Spaniards. Spain at that time was at 
the height of her strength and pride as a power tm land and 
sea, and made Porto Rico a veritable storehouse of treasure 



and a fortrt-ss of military strength. But ignorance and 
vice in a later day have robbed Spain of her strength, as 
well as the love of her .subjects abroad, and Porto Rico was 
ridiculously easy of conquest when invaded by the American 
troops under deneral Miles, -luly 2."), 1898. 

Porto Rico is about four hundred and fifty miles east of 
Cuba, being separated from it by the island of Haiti and its 
straits. Thus, by steamship route, it is at least one thousand 
miles from Havana, in the western part of Cuba, to San 
Juan, in the eastern part of Porto Rico. The area of the 
island is 3,-5.50 square miles, it being fourth in .size among 
the West Indies. Its surface is very similar to that of 
Cuba, although rivers are much more plentiful and the hills 
are not so high nor precipitous. A mountain range extends 
in a northeasterly and southwesterly direction across the 
island, reaching its greatest height in the northeastern 
corner. El Yunques, the highest mountain peak, rises to a 
height of SfilQ feet. These mountains intercept the north- 
east trade-winds, causing heavy rainfall on the north side 
of the island, while the region south of the mountains is 
subject to drought. Irrigation is somewhat resorted to, but 
is yet in a crude and unsatisfactory condition. 

The soil throughout the island is remarkably fertile, sup- 
])orting over five hundred varieties of trees. Many trees 
valuable for their wood, such as mahogany, cedar, walnut 
and laurel, are plentiful, and many yielding various com- 
mercial gums are also numerous. On the lower parts of the 
island the general character of the vegetation is tropical, 
while on the higher lands the plant life of the temperate 
zone is not unknown. 

Like Cuba, Porto Rico's greatest product and export is 
sugar, amounting to about two million dollars annually. 
Coffee, molasses, tobacco and bananas are also important 
items of industry and commerce. Tobacco grows easily in 
the lowlands, as does maize, pineapples, etc. Under Spanish 
sovereignty tobacco was, as in Cub.i, a government monop- 
oly, and large quantities of certain -qualities of the leaf 
were shipped, at very meager profit to the producer, to the 
great government cigar factory ai Havana. 

.\ great many horses and cattle are raised and exported, 
es|)ecially the latter. Cattle are highly valued throughout 
the West Indies, being used not only for dairy and food 
purposes, but for beasts of burden and draft. 



26 




View of Shipping at the Quay, San Juan, Porto Rico 



Poultry is raised in large quantities; not, however, for 
extensive export, although consideralile is sent to other 
islands. Local jioultry trade is ijuite brisk, and the venders 
may nearly always be found at the street-corners with their 
inverted and excited merchandise suspended by strings from 
their shoulders. 

The mineral resources of Porto Rico have not been thor- 
oughly developed, but are in no case very extensive or 
important. At Guanica, Salinas and Cabo Uoja there are 
salt-works, and sulphides of copper and oxides of iron in 
large quantities are found. Gold has been discovered in some 
of the streams, but not in large quantities. 

The largest wild animals native to the island are the 
armadillo ami the agouti, but scorpions, centipedes, wasps, 



fleas and many other disagreeable and dangerous insects 
abound, and are a constant source of annoyance in some 
parts of the island. There are no jjoisonous rejililes. 

The population of Porto Rico is about eight hundred thou- 
sand, and is a mixture of nearly every nation on earth, three 
fifths being of the various Caucasian races — Latin. >^axon 
and all kinds of Jews -and the other two fifths a mingling 
of all shade.s, from .Mongolian yellow to Ethiopian black. 

,San .Juan, the ca|)ital and principal seajiort, has a pop- 
ulation of about thirty thou.sand, and is one of the most 
healthful cities in the West Indies, owing to its being well 
situated and fairly well drained. The city is built on an 
island off the northern coast, connected with the mainland 
by the bridge of San Antonio. Like all the old Spanish 




Statue of Columbus, On the Plaza, San Juan 

27 




AMIitary Barracks at San Juan— Damaged by American BombarUmcnt 




The Cathedral at San Juan, Showing Marks of American Gunnery 




A Home of the Well-to-do in Porto Rico 

It is claimed by some that his remains are interred in .San Juan instead of in Havana, 
nor confirmed to the present time. Although San Juan cannot be called a beautiful 

28 



cities, it is fortified and surrounded 
by a massive stone wall, within 
which is the city proper, while 
outside are some more modern 
suburbs, the principal ones being 
Marina and Puerto de Tierra. Most 
of the houses in the old city are 
two-story structures, and it is the 
usual thing for the poorer classes to 
occujiy the lower floors, while their 
more attiuent neighbors breathe 
the purer air above them in the 
second stories. 

There are no manufactures of 
importance in San Juan, the largest 
industrial establishment of any 
kind being the Standard Oil C'om- 
I'any's refinery for crude petroleum 
nn the mainland ojiposite the city. 
Ihe city has an ice-plant and gas 
and electric-light works. 

Morro Castle crowns a promon- 
tory at the western extremity of 
the island on which the city is 
built. It was formerly quite an 
imposing pile of masonry, but was 
considerably damaged in the bom- 
bardment by the American fleet 
under .Vdmiral Sampson, May 12, 
1898. This was the first lim'e the 
city had been attacked since 1797, 
when an English fleet under Lord 
Abercromliie bombarded the place; 
but old .\lorro easily withstood the 
fire of the old smooth-bore, muzzle- 
loading cannon, and compelled the 
English to retire the third day. 

There are some buildings in San 
Juan worthy of note, among which 
are the palace of the (Jovernor- 
General. the old fort of Santa 
Catalina, the Bishop's palace, the 
■cathedral, arsenal, town hall, the- 
ater, etc. There is also a large 
but poorly arranj;ed and conducted 
hospital. The cathedral at present 
shows the marks of .American gun- 
nery, having been considerably 
damageil during the bombardment 
liy .\dmiral Sampson, as akso were 
the military barracks and many 
other important buildings. 

A beautiful statue of Columbus 

stands on the plaza at San Juan. 

which allegation is neither disproved 

place, it still has its quota of pleasant 




Scenes in Porto Rito 

1. A Street in San German. 2. Native Porto Rican Girls at Home. 3. Pier at La Playa, Port of Ponce. (This picture was taken 
as the Philadelphia city troops were embarkinR for home, the transports for their accommodation being farther out in the harbor.) 
4. Native Fruit-vender, Ponce. 5. Girl on Pony Selling Pansies. 6. Residence of General Miles in Ponce. 

29 



JJJ 



J I 







J 



.Military Barracks at San Juan— Damajjt-'il by American IU)mb;i rdnn.ru 





tU* 






^*i^r 




The Cathedral at San Juan, bhuwing Marks of American Gunnery 




A ilomc 111 the Well-to-do in Porto Ricu 

It is claimed by some that his remains are interred in San Juan instead of in Havana 
nor confirmed to the present time. Although San Juan cannot be called a beautiful 

2S 



cities, it is fortified and surrounded 
by a massive stone wall, within 
which is the city proper, while 
outside are some more modern 
suburbs, the principal ones being 
Marina and Puerto de Tierra. Most 
of the houses in the old city are 
two-story structures, and it is the 
usual thing for the poorer classes to 
occui>y the lower floors, while their 
more affluent ntighbors breathe 
the purer air above them in the 
second stories. 

There are no manufactures of 
importance in San Juan, the largest 
industrial establishment of any 
kind being the Standard Oil Com- 
pany's refinery for crude petroleum 
on the mainland ojiposite the city. 
The city has an ice-plant and gas 
and electric-light works. 

Morro Castle crowns a promon- 
tory at the western extremity of 
the island on which the city is 
built. It was formerly quite an 
imposing pile of ma.-<onry. but was 
considerably damaged in the bom- 
bardment by tiie American fleet 
under Admiral Sampson, May 1'2, 
189S. This was the first tinie the 
city had been attacked since 1797, 
when an English fleet under Lord 
Abercrombie bombarded the place; 
but old .\lorro easily withstood the 
fire of the old smooth-bore, muzzle- 
loading cannon, and compelled the 
English to retire the third day. 

There are some buildings in San 
Juan worthy of note, among which 
are the palace of the (iovernor- 
General. the old fort of Santa 
Catalina. the lii.<hop"s palace, the 
■cathedral, arsenal, town hall, the- 
ater, etc. There is also a large 
but poorly arranged and conducted 
hospital. The cathedral at present 
shows the marks of .\nierican gun- 
nery, having been considerably 
damaged during the bombardment 
by .\dmiral Sampson, as also were 
the military barracks and many 
other important buildings. 

A beautiful statue of Columbus 

stands on the plaza at San Juan. 

which allegation is neither disproved 

place, it still has its quota of pleasant 




Scene* in Porto Kico 

1. A Street in San (ferman. 2. Nativ,' I'orto Kican (;irls at Humo. '.i. Pier at La I'lava. I'lirl of Ponce. (This picture was taken 
^ A''®.^'^!!'"'?''''''''. ''"y, ''■''"l"'^'-''"'^. •^"iliarking for home, the transports for their accommodation being farther out in the harhor.) 

IJirl on Pony Selling Pansies. 6. Residence of General Miles in Ponce. 

29 



4. Native Fruit-vender, Ponce. 




A Busy Market in San Juan. Purtu Kicu 



streets, parks and handsome boulevards. One of the most attractive of the latter is the Princess' Promenade, the most 
fashionable street in the city; and it is here that San Juan society airs her laces and mantillas, her brilliant uniforms and 
)iay decorations, each evening after the heat of the day has somewhat abated. The harbor of San Juan is fairly good, 
although its entrance is exposed to the north winds. Unlike Cuba, Porto Rico has not many good harbors. .Many of them 
are splendidly protected, and were it not for the fact that the water is too shallow for vessels of deep draft, they would be 
among the finest in the world. 

Ponce, situated three miles from the southern coast, is the next town in commercial importance. It has 37.500 people, 
and is a much more modern city in every particular than is San Juan. It has a bank, three first-cla.ss hotels, gas-works, 
an excellent tire department, two hospitals, an Episcopal church — the only Protestant church in the Spanish West Indies — 
and an abundance of good water is conveyed to the city by a large aqueduct. Playa, its port, has a population of five 
thousand, and is connected with it by an excellent road. It was here that the American army under General Miles appeared 
in July, 1898. and after chasing a few Spanish soldiers up the beach, were heartily received and entertained by the 
inhabitants, who were delighted at the prospect of being relieved from Spanish misrule and having the island annexed 

to the United States. The mayor of Ponce i.ssueii a proclama- 
tion of welcome to the invaders, declaring that Ponce was 
already American in spirit and principle, and always had been. 
Banijuets were spread, and .\merican Hags sprang from con- 
cealment everywhere and were soon floating from the house- 
tops. It has recently been asserted that the war surprised 
Porto Rico on the verge of a rebellion of her own against 
S])anish sovereignty, plans for operations having been already 
formulated by the leading spirits. However this may be. cer- 
tain it is that a large portion of the populace are hostile to 
Spanish sovereignty and heartily welcome annexation. 

The seat of |iapal authority in Porto Rico is located in 
Ponce, the church of N'eustra Senorade Guadeloupe, one of the 
handscmiest cathedrals in the West Indies, being the seat of 
the bishop. This cathedral .somewhat resembles the one in 
Havana in its style of architecture, there being a massive 
tower at each front corner of the building, and large Roman 
columns on each side of the entrance. The distinguishing 
feature is that the towers of the cathedral in Havana are rec- 
tangular, while those of the Ponce cathedral are octagonal. 

On the outskirts of Ponce is an old cemetery in which are 
buried many of the renowned dead of an early day. This 
cemetery consists simply of a mass of masonry Ituilt into the 
side of a hill, and honeycombed with narrow vaults one above 
the other. The openings of these vaults look very much like 
bakers' ovens. The bottom vaults are always used first, and 
when a corpse is placed in one of them it is hermetically 
sealed and the name of the deceased graven on the outside. 
The next member of the family who dies is placed in like 
manner in the next vault above, and so on, each family having 
a tier of vaults. 

Mayaguez. (Juayamo, Coamo. .\guadillo and .\recibo are 
cities of minor importance, situated at various iioints along 
the coast, and San German and Yauco are picturesque little 
towns west of Ponce. 
30 





'.»aBr»- 



1b* 



A Poultry-vender, San Juiin. Porto Rico 



At San German is one nf the oldest buildings in the entire 
West Indies — or the Western Hemisphere for that matter. 
It is the San Dominican .M(mastery, erei-tod in l.'ll, by the 
first priests and monks who came to the island from Spain. 
Its venerable old walls, ivy-covered and decayed, have an air 
of damp mystery an.', impart a feelin;; of superstitious awe to 
the lone traveler exploring; its silent corridors. It stands on 
a high, natural terrace, above the level of the street, and 
seems to look down with moody di.sajiproval upon the busy 
villaije with its multitude of secular lives and eni]iloyments. 

On the plaza at Mayaguez stands one of the most celebrated 
statues of t'olumbus. The .Mayaguez cathedral, also, is one 
of the handsomest and most historic in the West Indies. 

.\recibo is situated on the UDrthern coast of the island, and 
is the seaport for a considerable area of very fertile agricul- 
tural country. The lack of roads in the interior makes it 
necessary for nearly all domestic commerce to be carried on 
by water. Were it not for this fact .\recibo and many other 
small seaports would be of very little importance. For 
instance, it is only thirty-five miles from .Vrecibo to Ponce, 
yet all commerce between the two places must be carried 
on by water (a distance of one hundred and twenty miles), 
simply because there is no road acro.ss the island, and the 
interior jungles are at present impassable. The i)laza at 
Arecibo supports the proud claim of being one of the most 
hand.some and artistic on the island. It is entirely dirt'erent 
from the most of them. Usually they are simply large, 
spat'ious .squares at the crossing of the principal streets, and 
with the principal buildings facing upon them. .\s a general 
thing they are paved with rock and are nearly devoid of 
vegetation. But the plaza at .\recibo has a thick coi)se of 
trees — or small park — in its center, surrounding a beautiful 
fountain. There are neat walks among the trees at regular 
intervals, while in the center is a small, fairy-like cafe. The 
cathedral, which faces the plaza, is above the usual size, and 
is a departure from the style of architecture employed in build- 
ing most of the West Iniiian cathedrals, being more modern. 




A Native Beauty of San Juan, Porto Rico 



In the interior of the island are numerous little villages and hamlets, practically shut out from the rest of the world, the 
only way of reaching them being by narrow horse-trails winding in and out among the mountains. There they nestle, in 
picturesiiue little valleys, with a drow.sy .sense of inertness hanging over village and forest and stream— a present-day reali- 
zation of Irving's "Sleepy Hollow." liut much of the architecture of these little hamlets is neither crude nor insignificant. 
Often it seems to have a touch of the magnificent or even classic in its massive columns and noble ornamentation. Some 
villages seem to consist almost wholly of two or three grand, towering structures in artistic juxtaposition, rising proudly 
above the surrounding landscai>e, and giving one the impre.ssion that a fragment from some grand Eastern capital has 
by some means been drojiped into a little opening in the virgin forest, cunningly concealing the huts of the peasantry. 
Throughout the island, in fact, are scattered little towns commercially insignificant, but abounding in picturesque scenery 




tL4.ir^^(>f 





^kZ. 



Princess Promenade, the Most Fashionable Street in San Juan, Porto Rico 

3) 




Spanish Hospital and inmates, San Juan, Porto Rico 



and rife with legendary romance and liistoric fact and ref- 
erence. Every turn brings one to some historic spot and 
discloses to view some reminder of other times and customs, 
mailing it altogether a paradise for the antiquary, the 
painter or the poet. 

Our antiiiuary or poet, however, will not enjoy himself to 
the fullest e.\tent in going from one place to another. .Means 
of transportation and communication in Porto Rico were 
positively the worst to be found in any civilized country in 
the world. There are 137 miles of railroad and -110 miles 
of telegraph lines in the island, and cmly about loO miles of 
country road over which a carriage can pass. During ."^pan- 





iitViiiiltlitittil 



'i. 




V^~c^ 



Tombs in the Old Spanish Cemetery 



at Ponce, Porto Kico 

32 



ish sovereignty the railroads and telegraph lines were 
under government management, and the inherent indolence 
and incompetence of Spanish officials prevented anything 
like adequate service being given. No attempt was made to 
run trains on schedule time. They run them when they 
pleased, maybe an hour, three hours or a day late; and if pas- 
sengers were scarce they skipped a day entirely. Each train 
covered but a very short line of road, so that it was necessary 
to "change cars" frequently; and as "connections" were 
seldom made as expected, ore was liable to be several days 
going a short distance. Add to this the fact that the 
average spi'ed of the train was about fourteen miles an hour, 
and it will be seen that traveling 
by rail in Porto Rico was anything 
but pleasant. For this service the 
fare was five cents a mile. The only 
comfortable thing about it was the 
thought that there was not the least 
danger of accident. 

The telegraph lines were under 
no better management than the 
railroads. Frequently a Spanish 
lelegraiih operator would take a 
written message (always collecting 
in advance), then indulge in his 
siesta and forget to .send it. Very 
often when messages were sent to 
apprise one person of the coming 
of another the sender arrived 
ahead of the message. If it was 
desired that a me.ssage go promptly 
double the u.sual amount must be 
paid, and even then it may never 
have been sent at all. 

The mails were no less uncertain. 
Tareless officials often sent local 
mail to Spain on the monthly mail- 
steamer; then it was returned and 
delivered the next month. When 







*♦ 







Mm\ 




street in San Cierman, Showinj; San Dominican Monastery, Built in 1511 

mail was delivered by carrier eacli piece must be paid for at the time of delivery, .such payments constituting; the carrier's 
salary. One was continually paying for newspapers and other pieces of mail which had been to Spain and back, were 
two months old. and had "postage due" on them, besides the carrier's fee. A'ewspapers were always read by the post- 
master before being sent to their 
destination, and sometimes, through 
forgetfulness or from a desire to 
preserve something the paper con- 
tained, it was never sent at all. 
Many people, therefore, in mailing 
newspapers wrote a polite note to 
the postmaster on the margin, re- 
questing him to use his own pleas- 
ure about opening and reading the 
paper, but to kindly forward it 
when he had finished. 

The general illiteracy of Porto 
Rico is discouraging. Of the eight 
hundred thousand people on the 
island little more than one hundred 
thousand can either read or write. 
There seems to be no lack of 
schools, but for some reason they 
are not effective. One of the first 
duties of the United .*>tates will be 
to establish .some sort of a system 
of compulsory education that shall 
raise the people from their present ^ Principal Business Street m San Juan. Porto Rico 

state of woful ignorance. This ignorance among the people doubtless contributed to the success of Spain in her nefarious 
methods of government in the island. Educati(m does not submit to the impositions which may be worked off on ignorance 
with impunity, kn instance of this is shown in the election methods on the island.s. by which the few Spaniards were 





1 



ifflilljB 

iirAiffij^ 




M.i/ii .Mid t.iillKJr;il, Sail licrman, Porto kico 
33 




An Unwilling Subject— Natives of Porto Rico 



kept in power and the overwhelming 
majority of native I'orto Ricans were 
totally excluded from having any 
part in governing themselves. The 
election laws of Porto Rico provide 
that no one can vote unless he owns 
property the taxes on which amount 
to a certain sum. The taxes are 
imposed (or assessed) yearly by a 
committee composed of local tax- 
payers in each community. At first 
thought this would seem to be very 
fair indeed, but the .secret is that 
this committee is appointed by the 
mayor, who is almost invariably a 
Spaniard, and who therefore appoints 
a Spanish committee. Kach tax- 
payer in the locality must make out 
a statement of the amount of his 
property and present it to this com- 
mittee. Being his neighbors, the 
members of the committee know the 
political opinions of the taxiiayer, and 
act accordingly. If he is known to 
be hostile to Spanish authority, and 
if his statement shows that he owns 



sufficient property to entitle him to the right of suffrage, the committee decides that he has overestimated the value of 
his property, and they proceed to cut it down just enough to deprive him of his vote. Of course, this method relieved him 
from paying some of his taxes, but the committee always made up the amount by adding to the just valuation of some of 
his less Opulent neighbors with the same political views. The towns are divided into elective districts— similar to our 
wards— and the election in each district must be presided over by a duly authorized representative of the mayor of the 
town: otherwi.se it is not legal and will not be counted in the result. In some of the districts where the natives (or Lib- 
erals) are known to be the stronger the mayor's representative fails to appear, and no election can be held. Meantime 
the election goes on in the Spanish district.s, and the Spanish officials are triumphantly elected. Of course, for appearance's 
sake there is a law against such proceedings, and the Liberals have a right to appeal. But this is expensive, and by the 
time the Spanish government got ready to investigate the case the terms of office of the fraudulently elected officials would 
have expired, and others would be in their places, elected in the same manner. This is only a sample of Spanish ideas of 
government in general. .Another is shown in the method of conducting the affairs of the department of public improvement. 




A Cofiee-dryinK ^ard On a Plantation in Porto KIco 

34 




Bird's-eye View of Ponce, the Most AAodcrn City in l'i)rt(i kico 



Whenever a body of citizens desired an improvement in a 
■bridge, or road, or public building, they had to send their 
petition to Madrid for consideration by officials who had 
never been to Torto Rico, and who knew nothing of the 
practical necessities of the island. But if a contractor wished 
to construct the improvement prayed for in the petition, and 
if he made it known to the Madrid otficiats that he was 
willing to pay them a substantial i)rii'e for awarding the 
contract to him, why, then the improvement would be made 
and the people would pay the bill. 

This is the kind of government under which the Porto 
Ricans have suffered for four hundred years, always pro- 
testing, but always obliged to eventually submit to the 
superior power of their oppressors. 

Life among the country people in Porto Rico is very crude 
and simple. They raise cattle and poultry and small crops 
of vegetables and fruit, which they take to the towns and 
sell whenever prompted by necessity — what would be called 
"a hand-to-mouth existence" in the United .States. The 



country Porto Ricans were perhaps happier than their breth- 
ren in the town.s, being at least further removed from the 
constant overbearing superciliousness of the haughty and 
unprincipled n(ms. These (jiliara!t, as the country people 
are called, are entirely illiterate, there being no schools at 
all in the rural districts until recently. They are very fond 
of dancing, and have considerable musical talent of a certain 
kind. They make their own musical instrument.*!, most of 
them being stringed affairs .somewhat resembling a guitar. 
They akso compose their own music, and when a native 
orchestra bursts forth into melodyi?) the very atmosi)here 
and the leaves on the trees become animated, and Satan 
himself would dance if he could hear them; and perhaps he 
can, for some of the music .sounds as though inspired by 
him — a veritable reproduction of the wail of a lost soul 
disappearing into the fiery depths. Dances are held every 
Saturday evening, each neighborhood congregating at some 
ilHiara'.i shanty, and, aside from the dancing, partaking of. 
whatever refreshments he may have to offer. As in Cuba, 




tliL r..it kj;rminU 




A Scene in the Suburbs of Ponce, Porto Rico 



all the men invariably carry a machete. These heavy 
weajjons somewhat retard terjisichorean feats, therefore 
they are all taken from their owners' belts and stood in 
a handy corner. Xo dance is a success unless it ends 
in a general free-for-all tight, and when it starts each 
man rushes to the corner, secures his machete, and stands 
at bay. Then the women are all driven into another 
room, and the light begins in earnest. It is not a two- 
man affair, for every one in the crowd takes sides with 
one or the other of the two original belligerents. The 
light is extinguished, and every one slashes right and 
left, several men usually being seriously wounded and 



perhaps killed, and all the participants gashed more or 
less. As soon as the fight is over, every one who is able 
to do so apologizes to all the rest, declaring that it was 
all his fault, and the company separates with expres- 
sions of the utmost good feeling. Those who escape 
severe in.iury are u.^ually arrested by the police, but 
when taken before the judge they simply stare in an 
idiotic way, and answer, "I do not know," to every 
question put to them. This pugnacity of the native 
Porto Ricans is said to be the result of a mingling of 
Zulu blood, it being claimed that many of the slaves 
brought to the island in an early day were of that race. 




A Funeral Procession in Ponce, Porto Rico 
36 




Company 11 of the Sixteenth Pennsylvania— Outpost at Coamo, Porto Kico 



The ijiliiirax are very hospitable, anil stranf^ers sto|ipintc at 
their huts will be politely weleomeii and treated to the very 
best at hand. They have an exaj^nf^iteil sense of disnity, 
and will accept no money for entertaining a stranger, unless 
the strantjer appears to be a person of j^reat wealth or rank' 
and even then they will accept it only as a pre.sent to their 
children. This fact probably somewhat accounts for the 
surprisin<;ly large number of tram])s on the island. 

Porto Rico is subject to terrific hurricanes, which are 
usually accompanied by slight earthijuake shocks. It is 
easy to note the approach of one of these tierce tropical 
storms, for all nature seems to pau.se and shrink in terror 
while fearfully awaiting the approaching temped. The wind 
dies completely away and a deathly silence and unearthly 
inactivity pervade the whole 
land.^cape. A copper-colored haze 
creeps over the sky and descends 
upon the earth, lending a ghastly 
hue to all things, animate and 
inanimate. There is not a breath 
of air moving, the leaves droop 
listlessly on the trees, and the 
heat is smotheringly oppressive. 
Cattle anil other animals become 
uneasy and rush to shelter, hud- 
dling in the darke.st corners of 
their stables. The .sea is nearly 
calm, the waves rolling in slowly 
and smoothly from far out with- 
out a murmur until they reach 
the shore, when they seem to sud- 
denly become enraged, and ri.se in 
the air as though impelled by 
some subterranean force, casting 
them.selves furiously on the beach 
with a mighty roar. I^oon the 
wind begins to come in little gusts 
from first one quarter and then 
another — a precursor that the 
storm is at hand. A seething 
roar is heard, and almost before 
it can be realized the hurricane 
has pounced upon the earth and 
is uprooting trees, tearing hou.ses 
and other buildings from their 
foundations and scattering them 
to the four points of the compa.ss. 
Sometimes whole towns and vil- 
lages are demolished, and many 
people killed and injured. After 
one of the.se tropical storms there 
is usually a strong smell of sul- 
phur in the air for .several hours. 



While cock-fighting is one of the most popular sports in 
Cuba, the Philippines and all other Spanish colonie.s, it has 
reached its greatest degree of perfection in I'orto Uico, 
where it may properly be called the one great sport. The 
Porto Rico game-chicken is very carefully bred, often having 
a pedigree which may lie traced back for uncounted genera- 
tions. The jinllcra, or arena where the cocking-mains are 
held, is about twenty feet in diameter, and the seats for 
spectators rise tier above tier on every side. The (jaUcras 
are rec(^gnized institutions in all the towns and village.s, 
being considered next in importance to the cathedral, and 
much more nece.ssary than the school-house or other jiublic 
buildings. The owner of the gnUcra pays a regular license 
to the town for the privilege, and is protected in his enter- 




On the Way to Marltct, Near Ponce, Porto Rico 




rr I" f 







The Olil Spanish Custom-house at Ponce, Porlo kico 




Scenes in Porto kito 



1 MiHHIc olass Residence San Juan. 2. Substantial Residence, Ponc-e. 3. Spanish TuR-boat. 4. First-class PassenRer-coach. 
'^ A RirsZs Street in Ponce. 6. Commercial Street, Ponce. Showing Stores With Residences Above. 7- Part of a Native Negro 
Family Eij^yixg a Sun-bath. 8. A Typica' Native House in the Country-Also a Portrait of the Family Dog. 

38 




Cathedral and Statue of Columbus, On the Plaza, Mayaguez, Porto Rico 



prise, no public cock-fights being permitted anywliere else in 
the corporation. Tlie cocking-mains are always held on 
Sundays and legal holidays, and usually last all day. Very 
few matches are arranged before the day .set, but each one 
takes his warlike rooster and repairs to the arena, and shouts 
out a description of his bird and the amount he will wager. 
Matches are quickly arranged, and tight after fight ensues, 
each owner of a binl either going home finally in a carriage 
with a triumphant though .severely scarred rooster under his 
arm and his pocket full of money, or else plodding home on 
foot with an empty pocket and leaving a dead bird behind 
him in the ring. Large sums of money are wagered on 
these cock-fights, bets being made simply by word of mouth 
and no money produced. Strange as it may seem to us 
here in America, there are no disputes, the referee's decision 
being accepted without question, and no Porto Uican is ever 
known to attempt to e.scape the payment of a lost wager. 
Porto Rico is now being gradually deserted by the Span- 



iards, who, in spite of all their protestations of acquiescence 
in the new government, cannot reconcile themselves to their 
loss of prestige and political power. San .luan and Ponce 
newspapers are now advertising. "IC.iliincin.i inin/ liaralantn la 
Vciia, !i riV/a.s' en las Alluras;" that is, " Farms on the coa.st 
plain and summer-houses in the uplands at very low price.s." 

Here is the opportunity for .\merican capital, and within 
a few years, it is safe to say, the unprogre.ssive and ignol)le 
past will be completely swallowed up ami forgotten in the 
new prosperity and just government brought to the island 
by the United States. 

Many of the native-born Porto Ricans have imbibed much 
of the Western Hemis])here business enterprise and enthusi- 
a.sm, and the judicious mixture of Yankee ingenuity and 
energy which may be e.xpected to invade the island in the 
near future will doubtless revive it from its lassitude, and 
Uncle Sara may yet be ])roud of his rich little island - .some- 
times not unjustly styled "The Garden of the West Indies." 




The Plaza and CathadrnI at Arcclbo, Porto Rico 

39 




i 



:H«nir- 



i SI Ui :.i8- 1 



Scenes in Porto Ricu 

1. A Portal Rican Locomotive— speed, IH miles an hour. 2. Railroad Station at Yauco. 3. Residence of British Consul at Ponce. 
4. Episcopal Church at Ponce— the only Protestant church in the Spanish West Indies. .^). Church of Neustra Senorade Guadeloupe, at 
Ponce. 6. Pictures()ue Yauco. 7. Another View of Yauco. Showing the Mountain Back of the Town. 8. Woman's Hospital at Ponce. 

40 




City and Harbor of Charlotte Amelia, Island of St. Thomas, Danish West Indies 



The two pif tures on this page are of interest from the 
fact that they give an idea of the development possible in 
the West Indian islands under proper government. The 
picture above shows one of the Danish harbor.s, which 
received much attention during the time .\dmiral Cervera 
was engaged in his game of hide-and-seek with the .\mer- 
ican navy. The lower picture is a typical view of the devel- 



opment accomplished on all the numerous Uritish West 
Indian islands. Both of the.se two particular islands— St. 
Thdmas and Barbados —are very small, mere specks on the 
map, in fact, but under an adequate development of resources 
and an equitable government they support a considerable 
population, who live in comfort and happincs-s, free from the 
oppre.ssi<)n undtT which the Spanish islands have suffered. 




Avenue of Royal Palms, In Bridgetown, Isle of Barbados, British West Indies 

41 




42 



r' ' 





Inner Marhor of Miinolulu, Shdwini; Shippinj; anil Dotkinj; I acilitics 



HAWAII 



The Paradise of the Pacific 




HE Hawaiian (or Sandwich) Islands are anions the 
smallejit but by no means least important or least 
interesting of our recent actiuisitions. Situated 
in the midst of the Pacific Ocean, in the direct 
ath of numerous steamship routes, the excellence 
of their location from a commercial or strategical 
point of view is quite obvious, while their own 
natural advantages in soil, climate and diversity 
of products make them a mine of wealth to their 
possessors. 

The group was discovered in 1778, by ("ajitain 
James Cook, an Englishman, who, in a subsequent voyage, 
was killed by the natives. His memory is pre.served by a 
white concrete monument, erected by some of his fellow- 
countrymen in 1S74 on the spot where his death occurred, as 
nearly as could be ascertained. 

Each island originally was independent, being governed 
by its own chief; but in 17S2 King Kamehameha I., of the 
island of Hawaii, became the Napoleon of the Pacific, and 
made war on all the other islands, one at a time, finally 
comiuering them all and bringing the whole group under one 
government or kingdom. The last island to be conquered 
was Oahu, its king making his last desperate stand and 
attempt at re|)elling the invaders on the site of the present 
city of Honolulu. The invading army. Hushed with victory 
and outnumbering their opponents, literally cut tliem to 
pieces, finally chasing them up the valley of Nuuanu and 
over the fearful precipice at the pass of the Pali, hundreds 
of them being dashed to death on the rocks five hundred feet 
below, where their bones may yet be found, charitably con- 
cealed by the vegetation, by those curious enough to search 
for them. 

King Kamehameha was enabled to accomplish his victories 
and C(mquests through the a.ssistance and advice of two white 
men. Young and Davis, whom he had captured, together with 
some muskets and cannon, from an .\merican schooner. The 
two men were spared from death because they were expert 
in the use of firearms. Young esjiecially was a man of no 
mean ability, and was eventually made governor of the 
i.sland of Hawaii, the largest in the group, and the king 
sought his advice on all matters of importance. He was 
also pre-sented by the king with several wives, and there 
are many i)eople in the islands to-day who proudly trace 
their lineage to him. 

In 1812 the Hawaiian Hag was designed and Hoated to the 
breeze for the first time. The story connected with the 



occurrence is interesting. At that time the islands were 
fre<iuently visited by trading-ve.sseKs, notably English and 
American, a considerable trade being carried on with the 
natives, and King Kamehameha was at peace with all the 
world, especially courting the favor of the two countries 
mentioned. But war was on between the United States and 
Great P.ritain, and when an .\merican privateer anchored in 
the harbor and her captain came ashore and saw the I'ritish 
fiag Hying over the king's palace, he went to him and said: 

" You profess to be friendly to the United States, )^et I see 
the Hag of our enemy Hoating over your palace." 

The king, not caring a fig whose flag floated over him, and 
perfectly willing to oblige his .American friends, hauled down 
the English Hag and ran up the Stars and Stripes. Two days 
after the departure of the .\merican vessel an English man- 
of-war anchored in the harbor. Her cajitain came ashore, 
and said to the king: 

"The .American flag is floating over your palace in spite 
of your protestations of friendship to us. What am I to 
conclude? Why should I not bombard the American flag 
wherever I find it Hoating?" 

The king, in jjerplexity and alarm, sent for his two able 
advisers. Young and Davis, and asked how it would do to 
float both flags at once. Hut Young immediately decided 
that hostile flags could not Hy from the same mast, but sug- 
gested that the .American stripes and the red, white and blue 
be used, and that the English bars be u.sed in the corner 
instead of the .American stars. They would thus have a flag 
of their own, and no one could dictate to them about the u.se 
of it. The suggestion met the approval of the king imme- 
diately, he being mightily i)leased to have a flag of his own; 
and so the next day the Hawaiian flag for the first time 
was unfolded to the breeze, and King Kamehameha lost no 
friends, either English or .American. 

In 181.") Aoung advi.sed the building of a fort at Honolulu, 
commanding the harbor. He was given authority by the 
king to construct it after his own ideas, and in .lanuary. 
1811), he began its construction, and finished it the same 
year. The fort was built of solid rock, with walls twenty 
feet thick and twelve feet high, three hundred and fifty feet 
scpuire, with embrasures for cann<m, about forty of which 
were mounted. It was a good fortification, and in 1820 the 
king moved his seat of government to Honolulu, which has 
ever since been the capital. It was in 1820, also, that the 
first .American missionaries, Mr. and .Mrs. Thurston, .settled 
on the island and began their work of Christianizing and 



4^ 




Anncxatiun Ceremonies at the CapituI Building, Hunululu, Auj^ust t2, K^g(> 
United States Marines in the Koregrouml 



educating the savages and weaning them frum their idol- 
worships and superstitions. They were given permission to 
stay one year, but at the end of that time they had made 
such progress in their work, and had so endeared themselves 
to the natives, that they were given liberty to stay as long 
as they chose. 

With the advent of civilization on the islands the govern- 
ment was changed from an aljsolute to a constitutional 
monarchy, and, after Kamehameha I., increasingly liberal 
constitutions were granted by succeeding kings and the 
government became quite eipiitable. Kalakaua I. was the 
last king of the islands, and died in .^an Francisco, .January 
20, ISill, while making a visit to this country. His body 
was taken to Honolulu for burial, and lay in state in the 
throne-room of the palace for several days previous to 
interment. Kalakaua was not of the royal line of kings, 
that line having ended with Kamehanu'ha V., who was suc- 
ceeded by Lunalilo. Lunalilo was elected by the legislature, 
and liied after a reign of only one year. At the time of his 
election Kalakaua was also 'an aspirant to the throne, and 
felt his defeat very keenly. After Lunalilo's death Kalakaua 
again strove for kingship, and came very nearsuti'ering defeat 
at the hands of a woman-Dowager l^ueen Kmma. widow 
of Kamehann'ha V. She was one of the most estimable of 
the royal family, and wa.s, moreover, a very beautiful and 



accomplished woman. She had much English blood in her 
veins, was educated in England and the United States, and 
was very highly cultured, amiable and beloved by the nation. 
But sentiment seemed to declare that a woman could not fill 
the throne occupied for many jtenerations by the wise Kam- 
ehamehas, anil so the people elected Kalakaua in haste, repent- 
ing at leisure. Kalakaua was not a model monarch: he 
was a "s])ort,"and was always surrounded and influenced by 
the sporting element. He kept a large bevy of hula-dancers 
(who jierformed before him in a nude condition), and was a 
patron of vice in various forms. Citizens' coniniiltees were 
kejit constantly bu.sy i)revenling him from signing bills 
detrimental to the welfare of the nation and its citizens. 
Especially was it necessary for great pressure to be brought 
to bear before he could be persuaded not to sign the bill 
granting a franchise to the Louisiana Lottery Company. He 
was a " merry monarch," but a very ineflicient and unsatis- 
factory one, and the troubled little nation heaved a sigh of 
relief when death in a foreign land finally relieved them 
of his pernicious rule. 

I'lion the death of Kalakaua his sister, Lydia Liliuoka- 
lani Dominis. who was the wife of .Mr. .John 0. Domini.-!, 
an Knglishman, ascended the throne. She had been educated 
by .\merican missionaries, and it was thought that friends 
of morality, justice and good government would certainly 



4 + 



have a frienil in her; but she sonn undeceived them. At 
the time it was said that she was under English inlluence, 
which was then very hostile to American interests in the 
islands. However that may be, the least that can be .said 
against her is that she was vacillating;, hysterical and tilled 
with unrea.soning prejudice against the missionaries and 
nil m<iral agencies. She iw.ssessed her brother's ideas of 
government, and, in addition, had a large fund of will-power 
and stubbornness of her own. The citizens' committees 
could do nothing with her. Kalakaua's pet idea had always 
been are turn to an unlimited monarchy. He had never 
succeeded in getting it, but his sister boldly announced that 
a new constitution to that eml would soon be promulgated. 
Soon after the vindictive outbursts and excitement caused 
by this announcement the queen aroused the anger of the 
people still further by signing bills permitting the opium 
trade and giving the I.ouisiana 
Lottery t'ompany (which had just 
been driven out of the United 
Statesl right toojierate in Hawaii. 
Later on (in ISi):]) when she at- 
tempted to fultill her promise and 
force her cabinet to sign a new 
constitution giving her ab.solute 
authority and power, the rage 
and terror of the people knew no 
bounds. They rose in rebellion, 
dethrimed the queen, and estab- 
lished a provisional government 
under the sujiervision of a Com- 
mittee of I'ublic Safety — "until 
terms of annexation to the United 
States of .\merica should be agreed 
upon." An annexation commission 
was sent to the United States to 
urge the matter upon the atten- 
tion of C(mgress and the President. 
More or less sentiment in favor of 
the idea was quickly established 
in this country, and Benjamin 
Harrison, then President of the 
United States, was openly in 
favor of it. He drew up a 
treaty of annexation and sent it 
to the Senate, February L"), 1S9;J, 
but before it could be disposed of 
his term of office expired, and his Old Mauaiian iuoJ 





Cook's Monument 



of Hawaii 




Body of King Kalakaua Lying In State in Ttirone-room of Palace 

45 



succe.s.sor in office, Grover Cleveland, withdrew the measure 
from senatorial consideration immediately upon his succe.s- 
sion to office. President Cleveland also, .seven days after 
his inauguration, sent a special representative," Colonel 
James H. P.lount, of Georgia, to investigate matters on 
the island: and he, having decided that Liliuokalani had 
been unjustly deposed, made overtures tendering the good 
offices of the administration in restoring her to i)ower. Ilul 
when Mr. lilount ascertained, and informed the President, 
that the ex-(iueen would not forego her intention of cutting 
off the heads and confiscating the property of all who had 
assisted in dethroning her (many of whom were .Americans) 
as soon as she was restored to power, the generous project 
had to be aliandoned. 

The ex-(iueen was afterward arrested for complicity in a 
plot to overthrow the government and blow up the govern- 
ment buildings, but her friends eventually .secured her 
release from custody. Others implicated 
in the ])lot were not so lucky, and were 
surprised to find that a government formed 
on such short notice had power to quell in- 
surrections and imprison the iiarticijiant.s. 
Seeing that there was no hojje of imme- 
diate annexation, on .June 4, lSi)4, a 
republic was formed in the islands, with 
Sanford H. Dole, son of an .American mis- 
sionary, as president. 

While sentiment in the islands has been 
strongly in favor of annexation for years, 
there has always been o]iposition in the 
United State.s, and it was not until the 
late war with Spain made their importance 
as a base of operations in the Pacific so 
evident that congressional op|)osition was 
overcome, .\lthough a treaty of annex- 
ation submitted to the Senate by Pres- 
ident McKinley in .lune, lSi)7, failed of 
ratification, the same body a year later 
adopted a joint resolution of annexation, 
which was signed hv the President .lulv 
7, 18'.)S. On August" 12, 18!IS, the United 
States tlag reidaced the Hawaiian over the 
government buildings in Honolulu, and 
Honolulu the government officers took the oath of 





Queen Liliuokalani 



Dowager Queen Hmma 



allegiance to the United .States. The present officials will 
continue to administer the present laws until a form of gov- 
ernment has been decided upon by our Congress. President 
McKinlcy appointed a commission of five to investigate the 
conditions on the islands and recommend to Congress such 
legislation as they deem advisable concerning their future 
government. Thus, though still under their own laws, the 
• islands are now a possession of the United States, and soldiers 
and war-vessels are regularly stationed there. 

One of the facts most worthy of consideration in this 
connection is that the people of the islands have satisfied 
their own greatest desire in agitating and advocating the 
question of annexation until they have finally been rewarded 
by the fact. It was not necessary to overcome opposition 
in the islands there was none; but the (,'ongre.ss of the 
United States was less quick to see the advantages to be 




attained and act accordingly. However, now that the tur- 
moil is over, it is pleasing to know that of our new terri- 
tories — direct or indirect fruits of our late controver.sy with 
Spain — at least one of them does not need to be completely 
overturned, renovated, fumigated and perhaps chastised— in 
fact, turned .squarely around and started in the direction 
of a new destiny, with new constitutional and economic 
principles — in order that it may some time work out a pros- 
perity and social development that shall be compatible with 
twentieth-century Americanism. The Hawaiian Islands are 
already .American, and are as ready to be governed as any 
state or territory of the Union proper. 

The Hawaiian Islands are in exactly the same latitude as 
Cuba, but their climate is more equable and pleasant. The 




Catholic Church, Honolulu 



Native Christian Church, Honolulu 



46 



seasons do not run to such extremes as in 
Cuba, the wet season lieing less marked and 
a moderate rainfall occurring throujihout 
the year. In fact, the climate is the most 
delightful in the world — a periielual, balmy 
summer-time, resplendent in tropical sun- 
shine and cooled by ocean l)reezes from all 
sides. This delightful climate, together with 
the unrivaled scenery, the unlimited fer- 
tility of the soil, the luxuriant and varied 
vegetation, and the fact that there are no 
poisonous reptiles or insects and only one or 
two pni.-?on<)us plants, renders this enchant- 
ing Eden fitly named in its sobriquet of 
■' Paradise of the I'acific." 

Many erroneous notions exist regarding 
the distance of the islands from this coun- 
try, the prevailing idea being that they are 
located in the corner of the earth most 
remote from our shores. While it is true 
that the islands lie some distance from San 
Francisco — a trille more than two thousand 
miles — j'et they are twice as far from any 
other continent. They lie about one third 
of the distance across the I'acific Ocean 



lli. 


' '^ ^^H 




^^^^H 


^HRR' 


I'j^j^^H 




i^H 



Falls on the Kakapepe River 




Pali Pass, at the Head of INuuanu 



from this country to Asia. Routes to 
the East Indies necessarily pass by their 
very doors. They are in a direct line 
from this country to the Philippines, mark- 
ing about one third of the distance. From 
San Francisco to Honolulu is about the 
same distance as from San Francisco to 
Pittsburg, or Key We.st, or Havana in 
Cuba, while the Klondike region and South 
America are both considerably farther 
away. Thus, from a geograidiical stand- 
point, it is l)ut natural that the islands 
should have been absorbed by the United 
States, and the world had for some years 
previous to its annexation looked upon it 
as a settled fact. 

There are fifteen islands in the group, 
the eight inhabited ones having an area of 
6,740 square miles -about one sixth that of 
Ohio. The iiDjiulation is very much mixed, 
there being Chinese, .Japanese, Portuguese 
and many other nationalities represented, 
besides .American, English ai;d native 
Hawaiians. A remarkable fact is that 




Camp Oti5, on the Fair-grounds, Honolulu— Diamond Head in Distance 

47 




JK3^^ 



View of Central Part of Honolulu 



the population of native Hawaiians has 
decreased from 200,000 in 1778 to 81,019 
in LS97, at which time the total popula- 
tion of the islands was only 109,020. 

The present race of native Hawaiians — 
more commonly called A'a ;(«/,•«.•; — occupy a 
unique position among the other races on 
the islands, and are by far the most inter- 
esting. They are a simple, kind-hearted 
race, entirely different from the American 
Indian, possessing none of his revengeful 
spirit or treachery. The friendship of a 
Kanaha may be relied upon once it is 
gained, and the gaining of it is the easiest 
thing in the world. He is of a social dis- 
position, and his genial smile and honest 
face create friends wherever he goes. He 
tinds his avocation in every .sphere of life 
in the islands, and is met constantly. He 
is a painter, a carpenter, a machinist, a 
blacksmith, an engineer, an editor, a cow- 
boy, a clerk, a bookkeeper, a teamster, a 
planter, a teacher, a preacher — in fact, he 



is everywhere you go, and will be found 
occupying most of the clerical positions in 
the government offices. He is, however, 
a failure at the head of a business, not 
seeming to have the foresight, judgment 
and e.xecutive ability necessary. But as 
a clerk or assistant he is faithful, indus- 
trious and may be implicitly truste.l, while 
as an inter-island sailor he is indispensable. 
He assimilates knowledge very readily, and 
is capable of being transformed from a 
prancing pagan into a creditable member 
of society in a remarkably short time. 
Many of the best professional men of 
Hawaii are Kanakas. No other race in 
the short space of one hundred years ever 
has or can show such remarkable progress 
in civilization as the Hawaiians. The 
change is due to the American mission- 
aries, and yet there are agnostics in the 
islands to-day who declare that the natives 
are worse off than they were before they 
were civilized. 

It is related of King Kamehameha V. 
that he was one day talking to one of 
the.se opposers of morality, when the latter 




Nuuanu Avenue, Honolulu 




Fire Department Engine-house, Honolulu 



asked if things were not in a worse condition generally 
than they were before the missionaries came. The king 
answered: 

" Why, sir, you have done three things since you came into 
my presence which, but for the missionaries, would have cost 
you your life," 

"'\\'hat are they? "asked the agnostic, in astonishment. 

"First, you walked into my presence instead of crawling 
on your hands and knees. You ne.xt crossed my shadow, and 
then you sat down in my presence, any one of which offenses 
would have once resulted in your immediate decapitation." 

.Needless to say no more criticisms were offered. The 
missionaries did not stop at saving souls. They brought 
influences to bear which secured to the natives freedom from 
ojipre-ssion and the right to exercise personal liberty in the 
pursuit iif hajipine.ss. 

Honolulu, the capital and chief commercial city, is situated 
on the southern coast of the island of Oahu, on an excellent 
harbor. The city has a population of about thirty thou.sand, 
and its suburbs extend for some distance up Xuuanu valley. 



JS 



Honolulu is very nuu-li American. A stranger visiting 
the city ca»i easily imagine that he is still in the United 
States, as all the local features of a thriving American 
city are in evidence. The English language i)revails, and 
American manners and customs take precedence over all 
others. The city has electric-lights and a good system of 
waterworks, together with a well-eciuipped fire department. 
The telephone .system is the most complete in the world, 
nearly every house in the town having "connection;" and 
this is true throughout the islamls. In Honolulu no one 
thinks of going from one room to another to consult a 
clock; they will call up "central" and ask the time of day. 
The street-car service is quite good, there being, besides the 
service within the city, an inter-urban line connecting 
the city with Waykiki, a famous bathing beach- the Long 
Branch or Saratoga of Hawaii —which is four miles up the 
coast from Honolulu. .\ railroad around the island is also 
being built, thirty miles of which are 
already completed. 

Throughout the islands are stage- 
routes, carrying mail and passengers, 
very similar to the ones u.sed on 
the western frontiers of the I'nited 
States before the railroads were built. 
The drivers of these stage-coaches 
usually combine the duties of stage- 
driver, postmaster and route-manager, 
and also cheerfully assume the role of 
guide-book and information-bureau for 
the enlightenment and .satisfaction of 
curious pas.sengers and tourist.s. Most 
of the houses along the stage-routes 
have bo.xes on a 
post in front for 
the reception of 
mail matter, but 
where there is 
no box the driver 
to.s.ses the mail 
down onto the 
ground, giving no- 
tice thereof by a 
blast on his bugle, 
and drives on. In 
case anyone is met 
on the road who 
is e.xpecting mail 
by that stage, the 
bags are opened, 
and if there is 

IroiMilulij Holt.'! 





Music Hall, Honolulu 






Ma.sonic Temple, Hunululu 



Home for Indigent, Honolulu 

anything for them 
they receive it 
then a n d there. 
This constitutes 
the Hawaiian sys- 
tem of free mail 
delivery. 

Newspapers are 
printed in Hono- 
lulu in the Eng- 
1 i s h , Hawaiian, 
Portuguese. Jap- 
anese and Chinese 
languages; steam- 
ships from San 
Francisco are frequent, and, in spite 
of their distance from the continent, 
the islands are kept in close touch 
with the rest of the world. American 
" push " and ingenuity have brought all 
this about, and wherever enterprise, 
capital, executive ability, thrift and 
directing energy are in evidence, there 
is found the .\merican. He it is who 
has brought the islands to commer- 
cial inijiortance and made Honolulu 
a modern city instead of merely a 

rr llfSH^ tropical trading-point. 

E-sHPi"! .\ffairs of the I'nited States, domes- 

tic and foreign, are watched with as 
much interest in Honolulu as in New 
York. An instance of the intense 
American spirit of the jieople is shown 
in the fact that for several years the 
presidential elections of the United States have been held, 
"just for fun," in the islands on the same day as in this 
country itself. At the last election Mr. McKinley received 
a ma,jority of .several thousand votes over .Mr. ISryan. 

The first object which attracts the attention of a traveler 
landing at Honolulu is the Royal Palace- now the executive 
building. This haml.some structure is built on an elevation 
back .some distance from the water-front, yet not in the 
midst of the city. Its commanding height and imposing 
architecture arrest the eye at once. It is located in the 
midst of beautiful grounds, surrounded by carefully trimmed 
trees and artistically arranged shrubbery. 

School and church facilities in Honolulu are thoroughly 
up to the standard of .Vmerican cities of the same size. 
Princess Kuth's palace, a very large and beautiful mansion, 
not unlike the executive building in apjiearance, is now 
utilized as the Honolulu high .school, and all the other 
schciol-buildings are commodious and handsome. Handsome 
churches are numerous, and many of them are very large 
and imiwsing highly ornate within an<l appropriately so 
without, and .surrounded with horticultural ell'ects which 
would be wonderful if produced by another soil and climate. 



49 




Looking Up Nuuanu Street, Honolulu 




The Catholics first came to the islands in 
1S27, but as the American missionaries were 
already there, the stout old king refused to 
permit them to land, declaring that one 
religion was as much as his people could 
take care of. However, Catholicism has 
since been established, and has one of the 
most handsome edifices in Honolulu. It is 
said that the Catholics and Protestants dwell 
together in greater harmony in Honolulu 
than anywhere else in the world, even the 
clergy fraternizing to a considerable extent. 
Among other buildings of modern archi- 
tecture may be mentioned the Bishop .Vrchae- 
ological Museum (containing a very complete 
collection of archaeological specimens per- 
taining to the islands I, Music Hall, Masonic 
Temple, Home for the Indigent, Honolulu 
Hotel, and many others. But it is in the 
residence portions of the city that the beau- 
ties re.sulting from the judicious combination 
of handsome architecture and luxuriant veg- 




Bishop Museum and Archaeological Institute, Honolulu 



Princess Ruth's Palace— Now Honolulu High School 



station are most strikingly noticeable; and here, again, .Americanism is evident. The houses are .set well back from the 
street, and are reached by trim walk.s Hanked with a wealth of trees, shrubbery and flowers, exhibiting a harmony and 
variety of color which compels admiration, being, perhap.s, unequaled anywhere else in the world. The houses them- 
selves are u.sually neither grand nor imposing, though always neat and pretty and generally of good size. But it is the 
natural beauty with which they are sur- 
rounded that attracts, while the seemingly 
unlimited variety constantly brings fresh 
surprises to one unaccustomed to vegetation 
so profuse and prolific. Rubber-trees, ban- 
yans, bamboos, litchees, papaias, avocados, 
mangoes, gaudy baugainvilhpas, prolific 
plumeriie, night-blooming cereus, gay cro- 
tons, magnolias, oleanders, and numberless 
others, all growing in harmonious profusion 
in one dooryard, with the great Koyal I'alm 
towering over all, is no uncommon spectacle, 
while oranges, bananas, dates and figs grow 
rank and luscious everywhere. (Jreat pride 
is taken in these lawns and dooryards, and 
as no time has to be spent in inducing plants 
to grow, all the more time is given to har- 
monious arrangement and the securing of 
artistic effects. .4mong other fruits, apples 
have been introduced, and the Hawaiian soil 
and climate have evolved a variety unknown 
and not to be produced in any other part of 
the world. The skin is very thin and the 
fruit is mellow and very juicy, with a most 
delicious flavor. They cannot be exported, 
however, for the fruit decays within four 
days after becoming ripe. 

H(molulu is a city of elegant comfort, 
bustling enterprise and generous hospitality. 
The native Hawaiians are naturally kind- 




Queen's Hospital Lane, Honolulu 



5J 




Hawaiian RitliiiK-costume for Women 



hearted and mild in disposition, and strangers are always 

heartily welcomed and entertained throufrhout the islands. 

There is no place in the world where persons or imiperty are 

safer from molestation or danjjer (if any sort, as thievery 

and other crimes are very seldom peri>t'trated. liegging is 

entirely unknown. 

Most of the natives throughout the islands live in frame 

houses, Imt a few of the original grass huts are still to be 

seen. The huts and the art of making them are jireserved 

more as a curiosity than for purposes of utility. Some of 

them are (|uite pictures(iue, and by using grasses of various 

colors the natives sometimes construct iiuts which have a 

really artistic appearance. 
Some of the native characteristics in dre.ss (in modified 

forms) are in common use, notable among which is the divided 

skirt for the u.se of equestriennes. It is a very sensible and 

becoming garment, is used almost e.xdusively on the islands, 

and is a mode of dress reform which might be adopted by 

the women of the United States without lo.ss of dignity 

or grace. The late eminent .\merican lady journalist Kate 

Field, who died in Honolulu, became (|uite favorably im|)ressed 

with this costume during the time she passed on the iskuid.s, 

and adopted it to theexclusiimof the conventional riding-skirt. 

Horseback-riding is much indulgcil in, and large cavalcades 

of women in these costumes are frequently met taking their 

daily ride. Rright-colored fancy cloths are usually used in 

making the garment, and the more elaborate and expensive 

ones are made very wide -or perhaps "fuU" is the proper 

word; they stream out behind when the horse is going rap- 
idly, so that a side view displays nothing but the head and 

shoulders of the animal, the remainder being comjiletely 

hidden under the undulating, fluttering folds of the vulumi- 

nous costume. 

A white linen suit and broad Panama hat is the usual dress 

of the gentlemen, but all kinds of cool clothes are worn. If one 

is a native, is poor and does not intend to appear on the street, 

one may then even find a breech-clout a sufficiency of clothing. 

Commerce and social intercourse between the islands are very extensive. .Several local steamship companies have 

complete lines of boats which run continuously on .schedule time between the islands, with regular stopiiing-jilaces. 

Besides the.se, many of the wealthier residents have hand.some 
yachts or launches, and there are excursions along the coast 
continually, to say nothing of the native boats, which swarm 
everywhere. Thus the straits between the islands are con- 
stantly alive with craft. 

This inter-i.sland traffic is one of the most fascinating phases 
of life in the islands, rendered so, doulitle.ss, by the constant 
danger to those engaged in it. Here the Kanaka proves his 
w;orth. The sea is his great text-book, his one theme of 
ecsta.sy, his field of manly .sport, and his grave. Trior to 
civilizaticm it was his god, and it has done more to develop 
his latent energies, bravery, hardihood, skill and endurance 
than any other element or influence he has ever encountered. 
In the sea the Kanaka is in his element, and the dangerous 
inter-island navigation ami commerce is accomplished by him 
under ilifficulties that would disconcert most seamen to the 
point of abandoning the project. Some of the landings are 
particularly dangerous. Atone place on the island of Hawaii 
a village is built on the top of a clitf, and pa.s.sengers are 
hoisted with a huge crane to which a chair is attached, and 
swung two hundred feet in the air to the top of the clitf. 
Departing travelers are lowered by the same means to the 
boat, and thence rowed out to the ship in the harbor. 

.Ml native Hawaiians are nearly amphibious, and in their 
small canoes, with light outrigger to jire.serve their equilibrium, 
will brave a sea that wouhi swamp many a stancher craft in 
the hands of less skilful seamen. ( iften when a wreck occurs 
on the coast and the .sea runs .so high that a life-boat cannot 
be gotten off, the natives will swim out to it, and if any of 
the ship's boats are still .sound, they will almost certainly bring 
some of the crew safely to shore tlirough a sea which no white 
seaman would attempt to brave. Surf-riding was formerly 
the chief sport of the natives, but has fallen somewhat into 
neglect. The feat is performed on a carefully prepared slab 
of wood, rounded on one end, and consists in gaining and 




Date-palm 



51 




A Group of Flower-venders On a Street in Honolulu 



retaining such a position on one of the immense waves rolling 
in to shore as to be carried with fearful velocity toward the 
beach The more skilful of the surf-riders are still fre- 
quently seen standing erect, with arms folded, on their little 
planks, while rushing with terrific speed on the crest of some 
monster wave, which finally breaks with a roar and sends its 
burden scooting over the smooth water toward the sands of 
the beach. Promiscuous bathing is indulged in by all ages 
and sexes, and although sharks are numerous, the natives 



are seldom caught. They always know when a shark is in 
the harbor, and act accordingly. But even should they be 
surprised by the une.xpected api)roach of one of the monsters, 
they are by no means apt to perish. They will float calmly 
on the surface and gaze down into the clear water at hi.s 
sharkship, watching his every move. At the moment he 
rushes and turns on his side to grasp his prey the Kumika 
dives, and the great jaws come together with notliing between 
them. This is repeated until help comes. Usually, when a 




A Group of Kalakaua's Hula-girls Enjoying a Picnic on the Beach 

52 



shark is known to l)e present, the native goes into the water 
armed with a piece of iron about sixteen inches long and 
sharpened at l)oth ends. If the shark apjiears, he will not only 
be cheated i)f his prey, liut in all |)robaiiility will be seriously 
wounded, and perhaps killed. It is said that some of the most 
daring of the natives will wait until the shark turns on his 
side and opens his mouth, and will then place the iron per- 
pendicularly between his jaws, so that they are pro|)i)ed ojjen. 
The Hawaiians are very successful deep-sea fishermen, often 
going in their frail canoes out of sight of land. 

Like most of the I'acitic islands, the Hawaiian group is of 
volcanic origin and formation, ami the volcanoes, active and 
extinct, are one of the sights visited by tourists at the present 
time. The volcano of Kilauea, on the island of Hawaii, is 
perhaps the most active at the present time, some of its 
craters being best viewed from a distance. It is also the 
largest active volcano in the world. Mauna Loa and 
Mauna Kea, on the same island, are each much larger than 
Kilauea. and have been very destructive in the past. The vol- 
cano oftenest visited by tourists is the I'unch bowl (e-xtinct), 





Hula-dancers in Their Costumes of Qrass and Flowers 

not far from Honolulu, and from which a beautiful view of 

the city and surrounding country is obtained. Down the 
coast on the other side of Honolulu is Diamond Head, also an 
extinct volcano, very much resemliling the rock of (Jibraltar. 
In fact, these two mountains (I'unch Bowl and Diamond 
Head), if fortified, could protect Honolulu from the navies of 
the world, and would render the place as impregnable as any 
(Gibraltar was ever supposed to be. 
It is evident that in ages past the islands must have been little more than a molten mass. Lava formations in all kinds 
of peculiar shapes abound. Near the base of Mauna Loa the "flow" is estimated to be nearly a hundred feet thick, and 
lies in great corrugated and twisted masses, resembling a lot of huge mummified serpents. In .some places great fissures 
have opened in the lava, and are bridged for the convenience of tourists. Sometimes a " waterfall " was formed by the 
lava running over a precipice, where it still hangs in great columns and pendants. At one place a perfect arch, thirty feet 



Residence of Princess Kapiolani, Honolulu 




Qroup of Pupils — Honolulu School for Boys 

53 




Camp McKinley and Camp Otis, Island of Oahu— Honolulu and Harbor In the Distance On the Right 

Camp McKinley in the Foregrouml Among the Trees, Camp Otis in the Oiien Uround Beyond 

high, was formed, and at another an immense vase was left 
standing when the rest of the formation gave way to some 
force of nature. Nature has since contributed to the effect 
by planting trees, flowers and ferns on the top of the vase, 
where they seem to thrive quite well. 

The ancient Hawaiians had many superstitions, and worshiped 
many gods. One of the most powerful of their divinities was 
Pele, the goddess of fire. She was supposed to have her abode 
in the fiery crater of Kilauea. and eruptions were supposed to 
result from hei displeasure at some act or omi.ssion of the 
people. So, when the volcano became unusually boisterous, the 
king would hastily order a number of persons to be delivered 




A Native Feast— Note Poi Bowl in Center 
54 




Native Boatmen, Near Diamond Head 



to the priests of Pele, who would hind them 
and throw them into the erater to a|)pease 
the anfjer of the irritable jjoddess. It was 
supposed to be certain death for any one to 
approach the crater without first sacrificing 
to I'ele by throwinj? into the fiery abyss a 
handful of the berries which grow near the 
top. It was also certain death for any one 
except a priestess of Pele to eat any of these 
berries. This superstition continued until a 
certain princess of the islands, who had led 
a life of debauchery and licentiousness, 
became converted by the American mission- 
aries. She decided to preserve her people 
from the sacrifices to Pele. .\ecordingly, 
she started up the mountain, followed by a 
large crowd of frightened people, who were 
sure she was going to her doom. Near the 

top she was met by a priestess, who forbade her to proceed further under itenalty of death at the hands of Pele. The 

princess declared she did not fear Pele; that .lehovah was her only (!od, and 
^"^ ' to prove it she began to eat of the tabooed berries, .\midst the terror of 
the people she advanced and hurled rocks into the crater, calling upon I'ele 
to come out and fight, and informing her that she was eating up all her 
berries. .\s the goddess made no demonstration she was considered van- 
quished, and no further sacrifices were made, although there are still some 

Pele priestesses 

who cling to ' ^ ' ' ^~ ' -^ 

their belief and I "-•; _^ 

worship the 

fiery goddess. . ■ , 

T h e 1 a va 
seems to have 
brought with it 
from the bowels 
of the earth 
elements of 
wonderful fer- 
tility, increas- 
ing the produc- 
tiveness of the 
soil to a degree 
that surpasses 
belief. Every- 
thing g r ows 
rank and prolific under conditions of soil that would seem to 
forbid growth at all. American hothouses petted with scien- 
tific mixtures and fertilizers have never i)roduced the equal of 
the vegetation that springs from the lava-rocks in Hawaii. 

The great staple product is .sugar, some of the idantations, 
it is claimed, being the largest in the world. The product is 
handled in the most scientific manner. On the larger plan- 
tations portable railroads are laid through the immense cane- 
fields, and the cane hauled to the mill by the train-load, the 
tracks being shifted to various parts of the fields as desired. 

The machinery in the mills and refineries is of the most improved .American make, and most of the product, amounting 
to fifteen million dollars annually, is sent to the United .States. In fact, over ninety per cent of the entire commerce of the 

islands, both exports and imports, is with this 
country. Sugar-cane was growing wild on 
the islands at the time of their discovery, and 
was prized by the natives as a very delec- 
table article of diet. Sugar-making was first 
attempted in a rude way by the Chine.se, and 
afterward developed by American capitalists. 
The plantations are very extensive, worth on 
an average at least half a million of dollars. 
Systems of irrigation are in u.se on some of 
them, the water being procured from inex- 
haustible artesian wells. It is immped into 
great stand-pipes or reservoirs, and thence 
pi])ed to vario\is parts of the plantations. It 
can easily be imagined that no small engineer- 
ing ability is neee.s.sary to successfully pipe 
water for miles in every direction from a cer- 
tain point, but it is successfully done in Hawaii. 




Surf-rider 

Diamond Head in Distance 




An Old Native and His Hut 




Bridge Over \S aialiea River 



Native Canoe in Horenround 
55 



■4 







Crater of Kalauea— Largest Active Volcano in the World 



Coffee culture is rapidly becomins one of 
the leading industries, and does remarkably 
well with very little attention. Much of 
the land adajjted to coffee-raisinK is covered 
with a thick crust of lava, and the usual 
method of planting is to drill a hole through 
the crust and poke a "cutting," or small 
tree, down into the soil. It will grow and 
thrive, becoiue a large tree, and bear abun- 
dant fruit without any further attention 
whatever. 

Animals were very scarce when civiliza- 
tion first began on the islands. The only 
animal which the natives attempted to turn 
to any account was the hog. They were 
raised in a semi-wild condition, and when- 
ever a native contemplated a feast at some 
future time, he would go out and chase a 
hog into an inclosure, to be fattened for the 
occasion. The only wild animals worthy of 
note are wild hogs, wild cattle and wild 
dogs, any one of which it is dangerous to 
meet under certain circumstances. Domes- 
tic animals of all kinds have become very 
plentiful since thrift and enterprise have 



Mr. Claus Spreckles, the great sugar king, 
was an intimate friend of King Kalakaua, 
and had often loaned him sums of money. It 
was his infiuence and financial weight alone 
that prevented Kalakaua from signing the 
opium and lottery bills during his reign; and 
if there is any one on the island who posse.sses 
the unlimited hatred of Liliuokalani, it is 
this same genial and level-headed Mr. Claus 
Spreckles. 

After sugar the most important product 
is rice, which is raised principally by the 
Chinese. Chinamen and horses seem never 
to understand each other, or have any ideas 
in common: in fact, they are entirely antag- 
onistic. As a consequence the Chinaman 
does his farming with the aid of an o.x, both 
of them wading knee-deep in the rice-fields, 
and mutually manipulating a cultivator 
which is not unlike an overgrown American 
garden-rake, or the implement famed in con- 
junction with Whittier's Maud Muller in her 
labors in the sunshiny American hay-field. 




Ymmm:. 



■^ 



■•■*5i 



V 




.•^-^^^^^^^CiS^Q 




Bridge Over Chasm in Lava 




'^^^^^^""^^ - 



become established features of life in the islands. Cattle, hogs, sheep and poultry are raised extensively, while horses are 
much more highly considered than in the United States, and are used much more extensively. Every Kanaka has a pony, 
which he rides everywhere — scrambling up steep hills and sliding precipitately down the other side, but eventually arriving 

at the desired destination with both pony 
and rider in a cheerful mood, each seeming 
to take it as a matter of course that the 
pony shall do the scrambling and sliding 
and the Kaiial:a shall hang on, even over 
obstacles which an American, for his own 
neck's sake, would much rather trust his 
own legs to surmount. 

Some of the small uninhabited islands have 
been purchased outright from the govern- 
ment by capitalists, and remain unjieopled 
save for the inmates of one ranch-house, the 
remainder being grazing-ground for immense 
herds of cattle. Xo herding is neces.<ary, the 
sea being the only limit of territory, and the 
ranch-hou.se and inmates are there merely 
to jirevent lawless mariners from rejdenish- 
ing their ships' larders with fresh beef. In 
the valleys of the larger islands, also, are 
large ranches, the cattle being herded by 
luiiiak-ax, who fairly rival our own Texas 
cow-boys, being expert horsemen, unrivaled 
in the use of the lasso. 



'-^ 




^ 



La\'ii 



on Aliiuna Lua 



56 



Sheep are raised in much the same manner 
as cattle, some Hocks havipf; an island all to 
themselves, and the wool industry has fjrown 
to large proportions, thy ciuality i)roduced 
being equal to the finest Australian product. 

(tn the island of Kauai is an ostrich-farm, 
which was established as an experiment, and 
has succeeded so well that it will no doubt 
become an important industry. The enter- 
prise did not have an auspicious or encour- 
aging start. The promoters were a man 
anil his wife, who had had some experience 
in ostrich-farming, and knew the profits that 
might be expected if the business could be 
made to succeed. They i)urchased a pictur- 
esque valley im Kauai, shut off from the rest 
of the island by mountains and surrounded 
on two sides by the sea. Five large ostriches 
were brought to the " farm " as a starter, 
an<i were let loose to become acquainted 
with their new home. The very first day 
two of the stupid birds walked ort" a precipice 
into the sea. A boat was quickly launched 
and one of them safely rescued, but the last 
.seen of the other one he was majestically 
mounting the waves and heading for .Aus- 
tralia. However, this did not discourage the 
starters of the enterprise, and to-day their 





Lava Flow of 1881 — Volcano of kilauLa, hasMiii 



annoying, as their beaks are very strong. 
Sometimes their eggs are gathered in wheel- 
barrows, loaded on cars and transferred to 
a shii). thence .sent across the ocean for the 
manufacture of commercial albumen: but 
owing to the distance this is not very prof- 
itable. The only thing which makes the 
island of value is the great beds of guano. 
which product is shipped in large quantities. 
There is one small house, in which the man- 
ager and two or three .Japanese .servants live 
for about six months of the year. Aside 
from the countless varieties of .sea-birds, 
there are .some land species on this island 
which are found nowhere el.se in the world. 
Captain Clark, of Honolulu, once deciik-d that 
this island would be an excellent place tn 
raise swine. He imported a herd, and tin 
rapid increase without any attendant expen.se 
promised to soon make the enterprising cap- 
tain an opulent capitalist. But one unlucky 
day, when the manager and his attendants 



Rainbow Falls, Near Hilo, island of Hawaii 



business is in a flourishing condition, and is 
conducted on a large scale. The greatest 
obstacle to ostrich-farming is the stujtidity 
of the birds themselves. .\s an exami)le, 
if one of them from any cause becomes 
alarmed, he is liable to run around and 
around an inclosure until he drops dead from 
exhaustion -unless he finds a place where 
he can stick his head in the sand and imagine 
he is hidden. 

Lay.son Island, the most westerly of the 
group, is small, uninhabited and desolate, 
but is interesting from the fact that it is a 
sea-bird hatchery. Here sea-birds congre- 
gate by the million, until they cover the 
ground completely for miles. Being worth- 
less for food and their feathers of no 
account, they remain unmolested, and are 
so tame that they may be picked up in the 
hand. In fact, they become -so familiar that 
it is necessary to carry a stick to prevent 
them from "nipping" one's limbs through 
his trousers — an operation which is quite 





La\a tastadc, Near the loot oi A\auna l,oa 



57 




Railroad Runninj; Throujjh a Sugar-cane Field 



were absent from the island. Pirate Pease, 
at that time a famous south-sea bucaneer 
with a price on his head, landed on the 
island, butchered every hog, salted down 
the i>ork in the hold of his ship, and blithely 
sailed away, leaving his compliments in a 
note nailed to the door of the house. 

The island of Molokai, twenty-five miles 
southeast of Oahu, is the home of the lepers. 
Leprosy was discovered on the islands in 
185;^, and soon began to spread. .4s a 
means of preserving the whole grou]) from 
contamination a settlement was established 
fur them on Molokai, on a peninsula cut off 
from the rest of the island by mountains. 
Here they live, no one being allowed to visit 
them, and they are permitted the freedom 
of only the jieninsula. Twice a year the 
Board of Health from Honolulu makes a tour 
of inspection, accompanied by such as may 
wish to call cm friends or relatives among 
the lepers. There is a house on Molokai 
which is reserved for the reception of guests, 
no leper ever being permitted to approach it, although it is in the very midst of their village. When any person on one of 
the islands is discovered to be a leper, he or she is immediately transported to Molokai. They usually go willingly enough. 

l)eing anxious to preserve their friends and 
relatives from contagion, and many of them 
openly declare they are glad to be relieved 
from labor and supported by the govern- 
ment. It is said on the islands that the 
disease can be contracted only by inocula- 
tion; but as a slight scratch on the flesh will 
accom])lish thi.s. it is none the le.ss easily 
acquired. Often it is not transmitted from 
parents to children. Therefore, if a child 
born cm Mohdoi shows no signs of the dis- 
ease at five years of age, he is removed to 
another island, and if the disease does not 
appear after a certain number of years, no 
further restraint is placed ujion him. Yet 
some of his children or grandchildren may 
be horn lepers and forced to go to Molokai. 
There is one woman (m Molokai who has 
buried two leper-husbands and is yet "clean." 
Lepr(}sy assumes various forms. In some 
instances it works principally on the extrem- 
ities, the fingers and toes dropping off and 
the whole body finally becoming art'ected. 
In other cases the disease shows itself in 
One of the most common effects is elongation of the lobes of the ears. These sometimes become so 




A Pineapple Ranch, Near Honolulu 



facial disfigurements. 

long as to be constantly in the way and a great nuisance, interfering with the chief pleasure of the lepers — that of galloping 

over the peninsula on their hor.ses. In such 
instance an operation is usually resorted to, 
and it is said that the removal of the parts 
causes no [)ain whatever and afi'onls great 
relief. There are doctors and men of nearly 
all ordinary professions on Molokai, having 
unfortunately contracted leprosy at some 
period of their life and been forced to shut 
themselves ort' from the world and dwell 
apart with others similarly aftiicted. There 
are also several missionaries on the island 
who liave voluntarily become lepers and 
dwell among them for the sole purpo.se of 
Christianizing them. Such Christian forti- 
tude is truly wonderful. 

The island of Hawaii is the largest of the 
grou|i, being nearly equal in area to all the 
others combined. It is a perfect wonder- 
land of unusual sights, where nature seems 
to have run to excess in a determination to 
surpass all her previous efforts at .sublime 
scenery and startling phenomena. There a 
Some of the Kice-field-s On the i.sland of Maui traveler may stand in a beautiful verdure- 




clad valley and find himself surniunded liy the most upposite and antatJDnistii.- elements in their climaxes of action — on one 
side the towering heiRhts of Mauna Loa, covered with |ier|ietual snows; on the other the sninkin;;; peak of Kilauea, glowing 
with everlasting fire. The fierceness of the eruptions from Kilauea may lie judged from the fact that when most active the 
tiames may be seen one hundred miles out to sea, while at llilo. forty miles away, the people read newspapers easily by the 

glow. Near the summit is a house, called the "Volcano House." where tour- 
ists sto|) and where guides may be procured to conduct them to points from 
which they may view without danger the interior of the great crater— a 
burning, boiling, seething, smoking mass of mcdten rock, with fierce fiames 
playing over the surface, which is constantly agitated by explosions and puffs 
of steam, showing the tremendous forces struggling for liberation in the 
bowels of the earth. This crater is nearly a mile in circumference and is 
very approjiriately called the lake of fire by the natives. Nearly all the 
grandeur and magnificent .scenery of the other islands are magnified and repro- 
duced on Hawaii. The most fertile and productive valleys, clothed with a 
mass of living green, and forests so dense as to be impassable, are found 
within a few hours' travel of the great lava-flows, where all is barren, desolate 





Cocoanuttrec 



Mauling Sujjar-canc to Mill 




Hanapepe Vulley, island of Kauai 

and silent, huge, fantastic .shapes rising against the sky and twisting under 
the feet, with not a sign of life anywhere save a great vulture wheeling 
slowly over the carcass of a horse, which has died for want of water. The 
trails across the.se bleak wastes are lined with the skeletons of animals which 
have so perished. 

Kut Hawaii has a soil un.surpassed by any of the other islands, and is the 
leader in the production of coffee, many of the plantations having forty to 
sixty thousand trees. The island is also noted for its cocoanuts. (Iff the 
north coast there is a little islet which is literally covered with cocoanut- 
trees, which produce an enormous quantity. It is said that the nuts lie so 
thickly on the ground that one cannot walk without stejjping on them. Sometimes they drop from the trees and roll down 
the beach, the tide comes and they Hoat to the mainland, wliere they are eagerly gathered liy tlie natives on the alert for them. 

On the southeastern coast of the island is situated Hilo, the .second town in size on the islands. It is the capital of 
the island of Hawaii, and was the residenee of King Kamehamcha I. before his conquest of the remainder of the group. 

59 




Papaia-trcc 




Sea-gulls on Layson Island 

The Hilo of to-ilay has a population of five thousam 



marvel of picturesque beauty, and is also of considerable 
commercial importance, beinj; the principal port for the 
coffee and co'joanut trade. The court-house, the post-office 
and the custom-house are the principal public buildings, and 
the churches and school-houses are handsome structures and 
well supported and attended. As in the other islands, the 



system of compulsory education is very strict, even written 
e.xcuse from the child's parents not releasing him from the 
clutch of the ever-watchful and vigilant truant-officer. A 
written permission from the teacher is the only thing that 
will protect him from being seized anywhere in the island 
during that jiart of the year when the schools are in ses- 
sion, regardless of the nature of his excuses or explanations. 




(Jiilhcnnj; >ca-blrds' Hggs on Loj .son Island 

60 





A Group of Lepers, on Molokai Island 



Oahu Prison, in Honolulu 

One of the most interesting and magnificent bits of scenery near Hilo is llainbow Falls, so called because rainbows in all 
their brilliant colorings are constantly playing in and out, among, over and around the mass of mist at the foot of the fall. 

While American civilization has taken " precedence over all other modes of life in the islands, there are yet some traces 
of the barbarism of by-gone days. In some places the hula-dances are still indulged. These dances were formerly the 
chief amusement of the kings, the last king. Kalakaua, taking great delight in them. The dance is performed by young 
women and girls in a nearly or ipiite nude condition, generally bedecked with flowers, and consists of a voluptuous twisting 
and bending of the body, the feet having 
very little to do with it. Another relic 
of "savagery is the national dish of the 
Hawaiians and their method of eating it — 
particularly the latter. The food itself is 
called poi, and is made from the roots of 
the taro, a water-plant, which is raised in 
small fields or "patches," surrounded by an 
embankment of sod to keep the water at a 
certain depth. The method of preparing 
the food is quite simple. The bulbous roots 
are first washed and scraped clean, then 
cooked till they are soft. Then they are 
crushed and ground and set away to fer- 
ment. Finally enough water is mi.\ed with 
the ma.ss to make it a thick, sticky paste, 
and it is then poi, ready to be eaten. The 
method of eating it is also charmingly 
simple, and would please an .\merican a.s 
little as the sour paste would tickle his 
palate. A large, round bowl — sometimes as 
big as a bushel basket — is placed in the 
center of the table, which is a mat spread 
on the ground. The family and visitors 
gather around and proceed to eat with the 
tools jirovided by nature. The first two 
fingers of the right hand are i)oked into the 
sticky ma.ss, given an artistic twist, and 
then conveyed with undulating gyrations to 
the mouth, where the adhering jiiii is sucked 
off. It is not considered good form to use 
more than two fingers or to make the .iour- 
neys from the bowl to the mouth too rapidly; 
and it is the height of vulgarity to use both 
hand.s, as it is thought to indicate a desire 
to secure more than one's share of the del- 
icacy. However, it is looked upon as an act 
of gallantry for a young man who may be 
sitting near his lady-love at the feast to 
"help" her by scooping out a large hand- 
ful of the stuff and placing it in her lap - 
when she has one. But in spite of all the 
incongruities surrounding it poi is a very 
healthful and nutritious food, being both 
strengthening and fattening, and is an 

excellent diet for invalids (if they can kin.ii I'^iims 

61 





A Japanese Country Home, Hawaiian Islands 




A Lava Arch, Island of Hawaii 

hand-clasps and oft-repeated ahihnx (good-bys), makes a very 
different impression upon a cordially entertained stranger than 
the formal leave-takings of modern society. Any member of 
a family leaving home for an absence of more than ordinary 
length is also decorated in this manner. Every departing 
ocean-steamer carries away great quantities of flowers — 
notably on the persons of Hawaiian youths and girls going 
to the I'nited States to pursue variou.s branches of higher 
education. 

Scarcely an industry or enterpri.se that has been attempted 
in these islands has failed to reward its promoters, and 
although civilization has been busy for a hundred years, yet 
the development of their natural resources is only fairly 
begun. Not one fourth of the land available for the produc- 
tion of sugar, coffee, rice, etc., is under cultivation, and half 
of the present population lives almost entirely without work. 
Five times the present number of people could ea.sily be sup- 
ported, and the commerce of the islands increased in like 
proportion. 

And yet it should not be inferred that the Hawaii of to-day 
is a haven where indolence is welcomed and supported in 
luxury without labor. The Masonic and » Idd Fellows' societies 
in Honolulu have recently i.ssued letters of warning to their 
brethren in this country, charging them not to jnit too much 
confidence in the fabulous stories in the newspapers regarding 
the ease and lu.\ury and cheapness of living in Hawaii; for 

6' 



"stomach" it), being easily digested and 
wholesome. It is said that in times past 
poi was the main factor in the unprogres- 
siveness of the Kanaka. Why should he 
work when he needed absolutely nothing for 
his sustenance save his little taro-patch? 
The country Kanaka of to-day likewise lives 
a care-free e.xistence. An hour's labor each 
day will keep his taro-patch free from weeds 
and in a thriving condition. He can vary 
his diet with fish or clams from the sea. and 
can stroll into the forest back of his hut 
and pick orange.s, bananas, dates, tigs, straw- 
berrie.s. breadfruit and papaia to his heart's 
content. Since he is no longer slave to a 
king, and is responsible to nobody, time 
actually hangs heavily on his hands. He 
sometimes jogs slowly to town on his pony 
and spends the day lounging about the boat- 
landing. Otherwi.se he will spend his day 
lying fiat on his back on the grass under a 
shade-tree in dreamy reverie, with nothing to do but remove his mind from 
all worldly affairs. Sometimes he rides his pony into the forest and returns 
bedecked with flowers of brilliant hues. He need have no thought for the 
morrow, for it will be the same as to-day. He strives for the maximum of 
comfort each day as it passes, and looks not to the future. He needs not to 
provide for winter — to lay in coal or purchase an overcoat for winter never 
invades his balmy, slumbrous, luxurious, voluptuous south-land. He content- 
edly l)a.sks in the warmth of Nature's .smile, and gives a smile in return. The 
only events of importance in his life are the instances in which he is invited 
to attend a hiau, or poi feast, by some neighbor, or when he invites in return. 
These native feasts are marvels of sociability — a very outpouring of the 
spirit of hospitality and unrestrained jollity. The utmost good-will and 
freedom prevail, every one jabbers, slings poi, and shakes his fat sides in 
unrestrained glee and enjoyment. The feasts are usually partnership 
affair.s, one family furnishing poi. another pork, another fish, another fruit, 
etc. They are models of generous hospitality and true friendliness, even 
though they do not conform strictly to American notions of table decorum. 
Who shall say which is better, hypocritical decorum without true friend- 
liness, or real friendship exhibited without a cloak of decorum to cover 
natural good feeling'.' The feasts used to be followed by hula-dance.s, but 
the moral status of the natives has improved to an extent that seldom 
prompts them to such indulgences at present, and nude dancing is now 
prohibited by law. .A beautiful custom among the Hawaiians is that of 
decorating departing guests with wreaths and garlands of flowers. This 
is always done, 
and, mingled 
with the hearty 




Entrance to President Dole's Residence, Honolulu 



■while the reports of the resources and productiveness of 
the isiamls are strictly true (it would he dirticult, indeed, 
to exagsi'i'ate them I, there is no lack of men ti) ])erform 
what labor there is to be performed in the present 
undeveloped condition of thinK.s; and to one who has not 
acquired a taste for poi it is a tough pro|)osition to be 
landed penniless in a country where riour is five dollars 
a hundred, and other articles of American diet priced in 
proportion. For it must be remembered that Hawaii is 
not a manufacturing country, and finished products must 
be brought from San Francisco or elsewhere. "Develop- 
ment" is the great cry of the people of Hawaii: and so, 
while it offers wonderful opportunities for investment of 
capital, it is a good place for penniless adventurers to 
stay away from. 

On this page is a portrait of a modern Haw-aiian lady. 
.She is Miss Cleghorn, formerly I'rince.ss Kaiulani, and 
was the heir-apparent to the throne of Hawaii previous 
"to the overthrow of the monarchy. Mi.ss Cleghorn 
visited this country in 1S94, in behalf of the monarchy, 
and was received by the best families of the land. While 
the expedition under (leneral .Merritt was en route to 
the Philippine Islands, and during the fetes and rejoicing 
incident to their brief stop at Honolulu, Miss Cleghorn 
became betrothed to Captain Hradlee Strong, son of 
•ex-Mayor Strong, of Xew York City, who was with the 
expedition as a member of (ieneral .Merritfs staff. .Miss 
Cleghorn is a very beautiful ami highly accomplished 
young lady, having been eilucated in the greatest intel- 
lectual centers of the world. 

Civilization and Christianity have nearly succeeded 
in banishing all tracer of barbarism from the islands, 
although the hula-dances are still indulged in some 
sections — mostly for the diversion of tourists having 
depraved minds. These exhibiticm.s, however, are daily 
becoming more scarce, and, as previously stated, nude 
dancing is now a crime under the law. Many religious 
denominations flourish in Honolulu, and the free school 
and compulsory education system is much more rigidly 
enforced than in the United States. The social, moral 
and educational status of the Himolulu of to-day can easily 
shame many a pretentious .American city. To be sure, there 
are all classes of society, but every person is definitely 
known to be either for or against the principles of morality 
and decency, and is treated accordingly. The greatest 
obstacle to the civilizing of the islands has always been, not 
the natives themselves, but devotees of debauchery from 
other countries, who much preferred to preserve the islands 





Hawaiian Qirls in Holiday Attire 



Miss Ciegliorn, Formerly Princess Kaiulani 

Fiancee of Captain Biadlee Strong, United States Aimy 

for their own spoliation to having them wrested from their 
grasp by the infiuences of Christianity and education. The 
term " missionary " is sneeringly applied by the rough foreign 
element in Hawaii to all citizens lending their influence to 
purpo.ses of morality and righteous government, and the 
contest between the two factions in times past has been 
very bitter. The natives themselves were not inclined to 
ruffianism or immorality, but they were easily led and influ- 
enced. The opponents of the "missionaries" 
were also the supporters of royalty, have 
hated the republic since its inception, and 
have never ceased to hope that they would 
some time be able to overthrow it. But 
now that the islands are under the protec- 
tion of the United States, their last hope is 
gone, and they will be compelled to become 
law-abiding citizens or take the consequences. 
While as yet the future form of govern- 
ment in the islands is largely a conjecture, 
they will ])robably become a territory of the 
United States, with government and ofiicers 
similar to (Uir other territories, embracing 
legislative, judicial and executive functions. 
The hearty co-operation of the best cit- 
izens of the islands may be relied upon in any 
efforts tending to their welfare and the 
establishment of a stable government, and 
with honest administration of affairs, a 
thorough development of resources and a 
continuation of the benign influences of 
Christianity and education, Columbia may 
not only be ]>roud of her island acquisition, 
but will receive a handsome revenue annually 
from Hawaii, land of sunshine and flowers. 



63 




President William McKinley 



Secretary of War Russell A. Alger Secretary of the Navy John D. Long 




Consul-Oeneral Fitzhugh Lee 



Qeneral Maximo Gomez, of Cuban Army 

64 



General Calixto Qarcia, of Cuban Army 




Malor-General Joseph Wheeler 



Malor-General Joseph C. Breckinrldee Brieadler-Qeneral Wallace F. Randolph 




Major-Qeneral J. Warren Keifer 



Captain Charles D. Siesbee, of the Yale BrlKadier-Qeneral Daniel W. Flagler 




Naval Constructor Richmond P. Hobson Colonel Leonard Wood, of the Rouxh Riders Commander Walnwrliht, of the Gloucester 

65 




Troops Leaving Washington for the South 

The WasliiugtiPii Miinuiiii-iU Can l!i- iSfcii in tin- Uintaiice 



THE ARMY 



Scenes and Incidents at the Varioos Camps 




HE campaign of the United States land forces 
against Spain was divided practically into three 
parts: First, the mustering and assembling of 
the troops at camps convenient to points of em- 
barkation in this country; second, the invasion 
of Cuba and the campaign proper on Cuban soil; 
third, the various movements subsequent to the 
signing of the protocol — namely, embarkation 
from Cuba, landing in the United States, camp life 
previous to being mustered out of service, etc. 
On April 2S, 1898, President McKinley issued 
a call for one hundred and twenty-five thousand volunteers 
to serve for two years unle.ss sooner mustered out. Each 
state responded with her re(iuired (juota. and the work of 
recruiting, examining, mustering in and a.ssigning to com- 
panies and regiments was soon under way all over the 
nation. Camps of asseml)ly were established at various 
points in the South, from which the troops were forwarded to 
the camps of embarkation at Tampa and Key West, Florida. 
a few being al.so embarked frcmi other Southern ports. 

Many of the most interesting .scenes attemlant on the war 

were enacted during these times of preparation and mobili- 

. zation, demonstrating the willingne.<s and promptne.ss with 

\which the sons of the nation — which makes no pretensions 

of being warlike — rally to her support at the first intimation 



that their services may be needed, and .showing that an 
inborn love of freedom and hatred of oppression are the only 
e.ssentials to the raising of great armies in a country where 
even a martial .spirit does not apparently exist, but where 
patriotic sentiment and inspiration are imbibed with every 
breath of air. 

During this period of uncertainty, when none could tell 
whether the war would be short and farcical, or a long and 
bloody struggle in which thousands would lose their lives, 
each state and nearly every community had its (jUota of 
serio-cimiic .scenes and incidents contingent on "the boys" 
taking leave of home and its surroundings for the purpose 
of fighting under "Old Glory." 

Stout and grizzled veterans of other wars proudly wrung 
the hands of their sons as they boarded the trains, admonish- 
ing them to " fight as their fathers fought." Hands played, 
the ( 'irand .Vrmy of the Republic marched in .serious procession, 
"the boys" on the trains gave voice to choking cheers (as 
much for the purpose of reassuring themselves as anybody 
else), and cracked .I'okes and laughed witb their friends and 
each other in order to prevent the indulgence of a le.ss 
sturdy emotion; bells rang, trains started, and the weeping 
of the mothers, sisters and sweethearts reached a hyster- 
ical climax, after which they walked slowly homeward with 
doleful faces, trembling lips" and red and puffy noses, giving 



67 




A Scene at Lytle, Georgia, During the Mobilization of Troops in tlie South 



the "cut direct" to such of their young masculine friends as 
had decided to "stay at home and 'tend to business." 

On the journey to the Southern camps the trains bearing 
the soldier-boys were surrounded at every stopping-place 
by an enthusiastic, howling mob, who not only shook hands 
with the soldiers, but furnished them with refreshments, and 
even gave them presents of money. All doubts regarding the 
unity of sentiment in the North and South were .set at rest by 
the attitude of the South during this war, and it has been 
truthfully said that the war with Spain has done more to 

soothe and banish 
lingering animo.s- 
ities between the 
two sections than 
could have been 
accomplished in 
any other way. 

At Somerset, 
Kentucky, while 
the whole popula- 
tion of the village 
surrounded the 
train which was 
bearing the First 
h i o Regiment 
southward, and 
gave vent to their 
e n t h u s i asm by 
cheer after cheer, 
two old gray- 
haired fellows 
stood in the doors 
of their cabin.s a 
short distance 
away, each fran- 
tically waving a 
68 





mikIi kid 



li Astur, at Camp Alger 




Mess in the Camp of the Second Missouri Volunteers 



flag and cheering in a shrill falsetto. One of tliem was 
WTving the ^^tars and Stripes; the other, who had but one 
arm. flourished the tattered Hag under which he had lost his 
other member — the Confederate stars and bars. 

At nearly all the stations there was a tremendous demand 
for "soldier buttons," and had the boys yielded to all the 
requests of the young women who sought to add to their 
button collections, they would have been obliged to fasten 
their clothes with nails in "Weary Willie" fashion, and 
would have had nothing but the memory of bewitching 
smiles to recompense them for the loss of their buttons. 



One young woman at Somerset had advanced business ideas 
not posse.ssed by most of her sex. She had beautiful, clus- 
tering auburn hair, sparkling eyes, rosy lips, a charming 
smile, a dimple in her chin, and ten packages of cigarettes. 
She was after buttons, and she brought all the before-men- 
tioned forces to bear, one at a time, in the order named, in 
the pursuit of her object. When all else failed, a package 
of cigarettes was almost sure to secure the coveted button. 
When the train finally pulled out she had a dozen or more 
buttons, while some of her companions had not a single one. 
At Winfield, Tennessee, a shy, rosy-cheeked little mountain 




Blacksmith-shop in the Camp of the Second Nebraska Volunteers 



70 




Company A, Ninth Ohio (Colored) Volunteers, at Camp Alger, Virginia 



maiden walked slowly along by the side of the train, eagerly 
scanning the boys' faces. Finally she seemed to see a face 
that suited her. and stepping up to the open car-window, she 
blurfhingly handed a large bouquet of pretty wild flowers to 
Sergeant" Crandall, of Company H. Then she retreated in 



confusion and stood several feet away fingering her gingham 
dress, but evidently still watching the sergeant. When he 
finally found a note concealed among the flowers and 
began to unfold it, her rout was complete, and she fled pre- 
ciiiitatelv to the shelter of the ladies' waiting-room. The 




A Company Kitchen and Cooks, at Camp Alger, Virginia 

71 




Guard-house of the Sixty-fifth New York, at Camp Alger, Virginia 



note read: "Dear, brave soldiers. I am glad you are 
going to fight for our country." (Signed Nancy Jones, 
Winfield, Tennes.see.) 

Among the many strange scenes occurring in the South 
during the preparations for war. the following is related 
by a Mississippi man who was in .\ew Orleans at the time: 
' There was a regiment of Southern volunteers expected 
to pass through the city, and it seemed as if the whole 
population, men, women and children, had turned out to 
see 'em go through. In a way it wa.s a pretty sad expe- 
rience to the old-timers who remembered the war: sad 
because it brought back the memory of the privations 
and heartaches and terror of those days. When the first 
company appeared in their United States army uniform 
it might have been the signal for a wave of bitterness. 
But it wasn't. The crowd cheered the officers, cheered 



the flag, and cheered the ranks. That wasn't the 
.strangest part of it, though. Most of the men, as I say, 
wore the regular army uniform. A few of them were 
not fully equipped, having been ordered out in a hurry, 
but the general effect was all right. Suddenly, how- 
ever, a company came along, and, upon my soul ( I 
rubbed my eyes and looked twice to see if I wasn't 
dreaming), every man of them wore an old Confederate 
uniform! The crowd was as if every man in it had 
been struck dumb. Then, in a second, it broke into a 
yell that made the buildings rock. It seems that the 
company hadn't been able to get regular army uniforms 
before they started, so they had begged and borrowed 
a lot of old Confederate ones and come right along. 
They didn't mean to be going back to old prejudices in 
doing that. I don't know that I can explain it. but 




Camp Kitchen of the Kirst District of Columbia Kegimcnt, at Camp Alger 

72 




A Court-martial at Camp Alger, Virginia 



instead of going back they were bringing the past 
forward. They meant to make it plain that the old 
rebel uniform had become as loyal as the blue. And 
I think it was a tine thing to see them there, boys in 



blue and boys in the gray; not simply fraternizing in 
reunions and making long speeches to .say that the past 
is past, but tramping side by side, to fight shoulder to 
shoulder under the same flag and for the same country." 




A Blacksmith-.shop at Camp Alger, Virginia — Shoeing a Cavalry-horse 

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Firing a Battery Saiute at Van Cortlandt Parle, New York 



a camp of mobilization is a place where soldiers stand 
around and po^e in graceful attitudes, have their i)ic- 
tures taken in their natty uniforms, and valiantly wait 
for chances to become heroes. Instead of these things 
they found that they had to get up earlier in the morn- 
ing than they were accustomed to doing, and do the 



most disagreeable kind of hard work throughout most 
of the hot, dusty day. The blistering heat, the swarm- 
ing Hies, the hot .sand in the camp street, the in.sects, 
the dam]) dews on all clothing and camp paraphernalia 
each morning —all these things were very different from 
the natural conditions they had supposed must surround 




A Qroup of Mess-mates at Camp Alger— Each One for Himself 

76 




Vaccinating for the Prevention of Yellow Fever, at Camp Alger, Virginia 



a valiant soldier in camp. Then he had to chop fire-wood, 
pare potatoes and slice bacon, and there was scarcely a 
moment in the day when he was in tit condition to look 
soldier-like in a picture. He sadly reflected that there is 
nothin<j (larticularly inspiring about a man with a dirty shirt 
tied around his waist by the sleeves, and the tail sei'vinf? for 
an apron while he stands by a pumj) and washes tin plates, 
cup.-; and iron-handled knives and forks. iHirin;; the only 
part of the day when it 
was cool enoufjh to be 
comfortable he had to 
march out and drill up 
and down, up and down, 
and be tidd not to carry 
his gun as though it was 
a ham, and to throw out 
his chest, but not his 
stomach, and to pull in 
his chin, and not to swing 
his arms as he marched, 
and a lot of other things 
that he had nr)t enter- 
t a i n e d in his vi.sions. 
Then every few days he 
had to mount guard and 
pace uj) and down on his 
beat, hour after hour, 
until he was relieveil. 
It was all very different 
from what he had .sup- 
posed it would be, but 
he u.^ually took it philo- 
sophically, and would not ^^^ 

have "backed out" if 1,4-^^ vlBK^lii : "f- 

afforded the oppwrtunity. (iuarding the 

77 



A lady who was visiting General Shafter's camp at Tampa 
asked a .soldier lad how he liked sleeping on the ground and 
roughing it generally. He replie<l: 

" Oh, sleeping on the ground is all right. We have blankets, 
most of us, and there's not so much roughing as you'd think. 
Besides, we don't mind it when it's for our own country. 
Mother felt it badly when 1 came away, but she's all right 
now; and in her last letter she told me, now that I am a 




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General Miles and Staff Visiting General Wheeler, at Tampa, Florida 



A correspondent of a New York paper f^ives this account 
of his visit to the camp of a colored regiment in Georgia: 

"As 1 approached the camp a raw recruit on guard halted 
me. 'What yer want?" he asked. I replied that I wished 



to make some photographs. He hesitated, and stammered. 
' Wa'al, I specs yer better see de cap'n.' Then he turned 
to a comrade who was standing a few yards from him and 
yelled, 'Hyer, dar. .Jim. go tell L'ap'n .Mularks to come yere!' 




Colonel AUI\in Uri^;^ll^ .inJ Krii;.iilc Sliiii, I ir.'.l Cii\alr\ ItriKi'^c. I ir.st Ariuj Corps 

SO 




Wreck of the Train Carrying tlie First Missouri ti 



Virginia 



"The captain came, invited me in, and quietly gave the 
sentinel the proper instructions in regard to the calling of 
the corporal. As I left the camp a man was detailed to see 
me across the lines and prevent the zealous but untaught 
sentinel from injuring me. The .sentinel that we met this 
time boldly challenged, and the conversation which followed 
was this: 

'"Halt!" 

"'Ain't I done halted?' 

"'Who comes dere?' 

■■ ' Russ Wade.' 

"' Whut eomp'ny yer b'long ter?' 

"'t'omp'ny G, Cap'n Mularks.' 

'"Who's dat widger?' 

" ' De photograph drawer, pass by de order of de corporal.' 

" ' I'ass, Comp'ny G and 
photograph drawer; you 
are recanized by yer 
fren'.' 

" My g^ide learned 
from this what to do, and 
when we passed another 
sentinel, at the field hos- 
pital, he immediately 
said: 

" ' Comp'ny G, corporal 
and photograph drawer, 
pass by order Cap'n 
Mularks.' " 

Influences both good 
and bad had their places 
in the camps, and were 
supported by those favor- 
able to them. Many 
regiments had their "can- 
teen "--which is simply 
1 the army name for saloon 
— and the proprietors of 
some of these places made 
a considerable sum of 
money. .Some of them, 
however, were owned by 
the entire regiment, the 
capital for starting the 
enterprise being rai.sed 
by as.sessment, and the 
profits, outside of the bar- 
keeper's salary, reverting 
to the " stockholders " as 



a " dividend." ( )f ten these " canteens " were more than the 
name implied, selling all .sorts of supplies aside from "wet 
goods," and thus being a great convenience and benefit. 
While the Iwys of course knew better than to allow them- 
selves to become intoxicated in a military camp and while 
waiting the opportunity for military duty, still the amount of 
li(luor they consumed was not small, and it is questionable if 
any of them were better soldiers thereafter. The generally 
accepted opinion among intelligent ]ieople is that alcohol is 
more or le.ss damaging to the human system; and there are 
a great many people who would like to know what construc- 
tion the government would prefer to have placed on its 
conduct in permitting the open .sale of harmful stimulants 
to its soldier.s, or what good reason it can give for not 
suppressing an evil that is demoralizing, to say the least. 




States Army at Tampa, Florida 




The Regimental Band of the Third Missouri, at Camp Alger, Virginia 



But moral agencies were likewise at work in the camps, 
and did not fail to accomplish in some measure their designs. 
Chief among these was the Young Men's Christian Associ- 
ation. This practical and busine.-^slike moral agency did 
not limit its ministrations to the distribution of tracts or 
the preaching of -sermons. They erected a large tent in 
the camp, provided places and materials for writing letters, 
and supplied newspapers and other reading matter to the 
soldiers. It is said that .some of the soldiers declared they 
would as soon get along without the eommi.ssary department 
as without the Young Men's Christian .Association. Many 
of the commissioned officers stood firmly with the associ- 
ation in its work and gave them valuable assistance. An 
instance is shown in the fact that General Boynton publicly 



stated that he cimsidered the Young Men's Christian .Associ- 
ation the very best thing in the whole camp, while General 
Lee went still further and requested the War Department 
to provide for the sending of the Young Men's Christian 
Association to Cuba with the rest of the army. 

Scenes subsequent to the war were not less interesting 
than tho.se preceding. .Although hostilities were suspended 
on .August 12th, and most of the army in Cuba was returned 
to the United .States, mustering out was a slow process, 
and the gallant soldier boys had another taste of camp life 
which was even less enjoyable than the first. The novelty 
had worn off, and they knew exactly what it meant to be a 
soldier and fight in a strange land. The glamour which had 
at first surrounded the thought had vanished and everything 




I 111.- IJin.s 1)1 Iht .'>i!.;niil Ciiip.- .il AW;-.-,, al C.iinp Al);t;r. \iii;iiiia 

62 




General Fred Grant in lii> IliU, Ci)n.-.ultin;,' With Major dlasford, of the Signal Corps 




A KeKimental Carpcntc-r-shup, at Camp Alger, Virginia 




Acrobatic Diversion, at Camp Alger, Virginia 



was decidedly realistic and uncom- 
fortable. To make matters worse, 
there was disease to contend against. 
Lying in the trenches around 
Santiago in the pouring rains and 
fierce suns was a trying e.xperience 
for the boys who had been raised in 
the cold -Northern state.s, and yellow 
fever found ready access to the 
ranks. Hospital accommodations were 
necessarily limited, and medical at- 
tendance was scarce. The Red Cross 
Society did valiant service, but many 
a brave boy in blue reached the shores 
of his native land only to die from 
disease and neglect. Such occur- 
rences caused a great deal of agita- 
ticm in the public mind, and many 
officers and departmental executives 
were charged through the press with 
official incompetence and neglect. 
An otticial investigation was inaugu- 
rated, but it was very hard to locate 
the blame, and but little ever resulted 
from the effort to do so. 

But in spite of discomforts and 
privations the soldier boys did not 
mope or despair, and few of them did 
any grumbling. The Rough Riders 
in their camp (Wickoff) at Montauk 
Point, Long Island, were as frisky as 
a lot of boys let out of school for 
recess. It was difficult to think that 
these rollicking, happy-go-lucky 
young fellows were the same who. 
with stern, set faces, had thrilled 
the world by their desperate charge 
up San .luan hill in Cuba. The reg- 
iment was composed mostly of what 
would ordinarily be considered the 
most opposite types of .\merican 
manhood- cowboys from the plains 
and society men from New York — 
but in their uniforms no one could 
tell which was which. Previous to 





K^iihini; C:i\ :ilr\ -horses in Chickamaui;:! Cruk. Cli it. komauga, Tennessee 

84 




Officers' Mess at Camp Alger, Virginia 



the war it had been freely intimated that cow-boys and dudes 
wouldn't fraternize and that there would be continual trouble 
in the regiment; and therein everybody was mistaken, and 
it became evident that aside from the outer veneer applied 
by surroundings American manhood is the same everywhere, 
and that first-class fighting stock is found in the counting- 



room, in the factory, on the farm, or astride a bucking 
broncho on the Western jilains. Those who had predicted 
that the New-Yorkers would irritate the Westerners by 
their sujierior airs, and that the Westerners would aggravate 
the Xew-Yorkers by their "wild and woolly" propensities, 
stood aghast when they beheld former New York "chappies" 




I lit.- barbcr-Ahop of the Thirty-second Michigan, at Camp Alycr, Virginia 

85 




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The Frolicsome Rouj^h Riders at Camp Wikoff, Montauk Point, Long Island— a Toss-up 

the other. However, in I'hiladelphia, the "City of 



" B' jinks, the same bullet had winged every mother's 
kiyoodle ov us. Show up, fellers!" 

Six tawny left arms were bared, and just above each 
elbow was a scar — a vaccination-mark. 

While the .Vmerican i)eople can become very enthusi- 
astic in the pro.secution of a just war, they are none the 
less jubilant over the return of honorable peace, .\fter 
the protocol had been signed and measures looking to 
permanent peace were well under way, nothing short 
of public jubilation could .satisfy the .American sense of 
satisfaction at the outcome. The cities of Chicago, 
New York and I'hiladelphia each planned and prepared 
a great "peace jubilee," besides which there were many 
similar demimstrations on a smaller scale by minor 
cities. Inclement weather in both Chicago and New 
York disa|)p<iinted the hopes of the promoters of the 
celebrations in those places, it seeming that Nature had 
resolved not to favor either of those rival cities above 



Brotherly Love," when the week of the grand demon- 
stration came the weather was all that could be desired. 
The city was gorgeously decorated for the event, a great 
triumphal arch and court of honor were erected opposite 
the City Hall, and arrangements were made for grand 
pageants and parades. President and Mrs. McKinley 
were present, as were other public men and prominent 
othcials from cities and states other than Pennsylvania. 
The military parade was one of the grandest siiectades 
which has ever occurred in this country. President 
McKinley, in sjjcaking of it afterward, took occasion 
to say: "It was a jiageant the like of which I do not 
believe has been seen in this country since the close of 
the great Civil War, when the army of (Irani, Sherman and 
Sheridan and the navy of Dupont. Italilgren and Porter 
gave the grand review in the capital city of the nation." 
The Philadelphia demonstration was not only a military 




A View of Camp Wikoff, Montauk Point, Long; Island 

89 




Lieutcnaiit-CuJuiicJ 1 heuUorc Kouscveit* ui the Kou};h Riders 

lnan|j:iirati'(l (ii)vcnioi- of New York State in .laiiuary, IS'Jli 

the recent death of his favorite son, never moved a muscle, 
not even when the President of the nation arose from his seat 
and waved his hat at him. General Wheeler's chosen escort, 
the Rough Riders, was led by Adjutant Keyes, of the First 
Volunteer Cavalry. It was a mere handful of men, on sorry 
mounts and without accoutrements, but the incessant cheer- 
ing that arose all along the line, to be taken up finally by 
President ilcKinley himself, was enough surely to warm the 
heart of every one of those men shivering in their stained 
fatigue uniforms of cheap yellow duck. 

The first organization in line was the Twenty-first United 
States Infantry, which, while on the firing-line at Santiago, 
sang "The Star-spangled Banner " in a way that depressed the 
Spanish heart, liehind them came four troops of the Tenth 
(Cavalry, colored - the men who fought beside the Rough 
Riders in the first battle of the advance on Santiago, and 
earned the hearty respect of every white man who has the 
possibilities of a soldier in him. The reception they got was 
more enthusiastic and spontaneous than fell to the lot of any 
other command in the long line of march, .\fter another 
detachment of artillery, consisting of Light Battery F of the 
Fifth Artillery, came a rear-guard of regular cavalry, six 
hundred mounted troopers of the gallant Third, who distin- 
guished themselves at El Caney, in t'uba. 

Between the regulars and the volunteers marched the navy 
brigade, preceded by Commodore Philip and I'aptains Evans 
and .Jewell of the Te.\as, Iowa and Columbia, with the other 
commanders of war-ships in the harbor, all in carriages. Cap- 
tain Sigsbee, who commanded, rode a gray horse, which proved 
so restive an animal that the gallant ca|)tain found ditliculty 
in returning the President's salute. 

As the last of the .lack Tars swept by with arms at port a 
mighty noise went up, and through a mass of Huttering white 
handkerchiefs and flags came a tally-ho with the heroes of 
the sunken Merrimac. There were shrill screams of " Hob.scm, 
Hobson!" and a slight young man in civilian's clothes was 

90 



and civic parade, but a naval review as well. In the 
Delaware River in front of the city were the Texas, 
the New Orleans, the Columbia, the Marblehead, the 
torpedo-boat Winslow (ujion which Ensign Bagley lost 
his lifel, the famous fighting (iloucester (formerly 
J. Pierpont .Morgan's pleasure-yacht Corsair), and 
many other craft who.se records are interesting and 
whose officers were assigned to places of honor in 
the grand military parade which followed the naval 
review by Secretary Long. 

Major-General .Miles, commander of the United 
States Army, started the parade and occupied a 
position at its head. When the time for the start 
arrived the (General surprised those near him by 
merely glancing up and down the formation for a 
mument, then at his watch, and finally saying, simply, 
"Let 'er go." .Vnd she went. 

When the tJeneral, riding at the very head of the 
]irocession, reached the Union League Club, where 
President .McKinley was seated next to the Secretary 
(if War and (ienerals Shatter and Chatt'ee. besides 
several members of the Cabinet, high ofiicials of the 
War Deitartment and foreign otticers from (Jreat 
Britain, Russia and .Japan, he wheeled his spirited 
roan charger about and saluted the chief of the army 
and navy with the point of his sword. The President 
gravely returned the salute with a bow. At the Hash 
of the sword a mighty roar went up from the thou- 
sands of people packed on the grand-stand and along- 
the street, and the cheer was taken up from block to 
lilock, until it had traveled along the entire length 
'if the parade. Even more tumultuous was the cheer- 
ing that greeted .Major-General Wheeler, in a black 
slouch hat and black cape, sitting a full-bred black 
charger like the ideal cavalry leader that he is. He 
was greeted with vociferous acclamation.s, such as 
"You are a fighter, old .Joe!" or "You are the stuff, 
you old rebel!" But the old general, bowed down by 




Taking Sick Soldiers from an Ambulance-wagon 




The President IWeets a Sister of Charity at Camp Wilvoff 



seen to bow riglit and left, liftinR his derby hat, while once 
more the President joyously waved his hat as he recognized a 
hero of the nation. 

The seven thousand volunteers from Camp Meade, Pennsyl- 
vania, commanded by General (Jraham, made an imposing 
_ appearance as they marched by. Amonjf them were the colored 

^ VV Nintli Ohio, led by colored otiicers, and of Pennsvlvania troops 

'"mf t W M the rirst, Second! Third, Fourth. Fifth, Ninth. Twelfth. .Six- 

.«j5r if^MB' I Atk fc .ji teenth. Nineteenth and Twentieth Ucfjiments of the line, besides 

the old State Fencibles and .Second City Troopers. The comic 
element was furnished by the Two Hundred and First, of New 
York, with a .seven-foot ilrum-niajor whose acrobatic feats 
with the baton were such that even the President laughed 
heartily when he beheld the ajiile antics of the man. 

Impre.ssiveness was given to the parade by the contingent 
of grizzled old veterans of the Civil War, who marched three 
thousand strong. .\ pathetic hush, followed by a ringing 
cheer, greeted these bent old heroes as they marched by, 
proudly holding tlieir faded and bullet-scarred battle-flags 
aloft and returning cheer for cheer. When they paused 
before the grand-stand, grouped their tattered flags and dipped 
them in a unanimous .salute to the chief of the nation. President 
.McKinley involuntarily ro.se from his seat and respectfully, 
almost reverently, with bared head, returned the .salute of his 
old comrade.s-in-arms, and the flag under which, with them, he 
had fought to preserve the nation from severance. 

National and racial societies of many countries of Europe 
followed, and there was a strong Chinese contingent that bore 
a banner in.scribed " We Helped fiewey." ((^uite a number of 
Chinese .servants of the Pacific fleet did ett'ective service in the 
powder divisions of our ships in the .Manila fight.) One of 
the most significant ami .suggestive features of the parade were 
groups of real Hawaiians and Fili|)ino.s, who rode on floats 
designed to represent the resources and dev('l(i])ment of their 
respective countries, and who bore themselves in a manner 
which ])lainly showed that they apjireciated their own and 
their countries' importance and the interest which they created. 
Two men were lacking to make the list of newly discovered heroes complete and the celebra^tion as great as it might have 

been. .\nd it seemed as though the lack was felt by everybody, and that the absent heroes occu]iied a place in everybody's 

thoughts. President McKinley himself named one of them when he remarked. "I wish Ceorge Hewev was here. It all 

seenis incomplete without him." The crowd named the other absent (me, and as the Rough Riders marched by kept the air 

filled with cries of "Where's Teddy?" ."Vnd all Americans are ready to admit that any triumphal gathering in this country 

commemorative of deeds of valor on sea or 

land is incomplete without these two i)ictur- 

esque and thoroughly .Vmerican figures, who 

occujjy so large a place in our history and 

in the hearts of the American ])eople. 
.-V literary New-Yorker who was present 

not only coincided with every one else in ex- 
pressing a feeling of regret for the absence 

of Dewey and "Teddy," but allowed his 

thoughts to go still further, and exclaimed, 

" But most of all there is need of a Rudyard 

Kipling to sing another ' Recessional ' to our 

pieans of peace lest we, too, forget — 'lest 

we forget.'" 

While the United States honors her sons 

who are worthy, and while all true cit- 
izens .seem anxious to bestow " honor where 

honor is due," yet the above emotionally 

expressed sentiment may not be without 

foundation. In this age heroes do not create 

the furor in the world that they once did. 

The world is larger than of yore, and com- 
petition has even entered into the catalogue 

of de.sperate valor and heroic action. The 

world has heroes to spare, and so it is not 

strange that .some should wish to erect a 

lasting tablet of memory - -" lest we forget." 

But deeper thought dispels the fear, for 

"though we may forget the singer we 

cannot forget the .song;" and though the 

personal acts which have won a peoi)le's 

plaudits may become dim in the memory of 




Four Red Cross Nurses- 
91 



the Fir.st to flo to Cuha 




Triumphal Arch Erected in Philadelphia for Her Great Peace Jubilee 

future generations, their results will be seen in the composition of world-wide society and civilization; though the now 
familiar portraits may in some future age fail to be recognized, they will grace a page of history wherein is chronicled the 




Philadelphia'.^ Triumphal Arch and Court of Honor Illuminated by LIcctricity 

92 



story of a war the like of which 
the world never saw before a war 
prosecuted without hatred, malice 
or desire ft>r revenge or gain; a 
war absolutely noble, strictly 
unselfish, and almost deific in its 
objective attitude. It is creditable 
for a nation to fight in its own 
defense; and yet dogs <lo no less. 
.\ conflict for the establishment of 
simple justice is always commend- 
able; but how much more .so is a 
positive loosening of the chains of 
torturous oppression which have 
bound another people, unhappy and 
helpless. In our war with Spain 
persecution has been throttled, the 
starving have been fed. the naked 
clothed, and great countries which 
for centuries have lain dormant 
under the bans of cruelty and big- 
otry have been thrown open to the 
influences of progress and enlight- 
enment. By the result the world is 
made better, happier, and bestows 
her blessing upon those who have 
executed theseemingly divine edict. 
The world remembers, and there- 
fore we shall not -cannot — forget. 
And what justification for her 
acts is it within Spain's power to 
submit to a critical world? For 
ages she has antagonized develop- 
ment and enlightenment, temporal 
or spiritual, and it is but fitting 
that she should sink to oblivion in 
the pit which she in malice dug for 
others. She is her own victim— a 
theological bankrupt. The natural 
home of the Inquisition, her big- 
otry made her cruel, her ignorance 
increased her bigotry: the former 
owner of half the world, she now 
sits amid the ruins of her vanished 
grandeur, broken, impoverished. 
There is no honor in whipping Spain; 
but joy is the result of duty done. 




General Wheeler li.storlini; the ProiUent ami V in- t^rcMiltnl IIiioukO Camp Wikoff 




Section of the Qrand Street Parade at Philadelphia's Peace Jubilee 

93 






Rear-Admiral Georee Dewey 



Rear-Admiral Winfield S. Schley Rear-Admiral William T. Sampson 




Captain Philip, of the Texas Captain Pillsbury, of the Vesuvius 



Commander P. W. Dickens 




Rear-Admiral C. S. Norton 



Rear-Admiral J. G. Walker 

94 



Rear-Admiral Alonteomery Sicard 




One of the Five-inch Uuns On the New Orleans 



THE NAVY 

Facts and Incidents Concerning Our Ships and Seamen 




' T the time when diplomatic relations between 
the United States and Spain began to assume 
a serious aspect, or, to speak more definitely, 
about the time the world was horrified b.v the 
destruction of the battleship Maine in Havana 
harbor, and soon after our President had been 
basely maligned in a letter written by the Spanish minister, 
Seiior Enri(iue Dupuy DeLome, the United .States navy 
was. to the average American as well as to most for- 
eigners, a very indefinite proiiosition. In fact, the general 
impression prevailed that we had no navy worth mentioning; 
and many congressmen had gained 
popularity with their constituents 
by strenuously opposing jiroposi- 
tions for apjinipriations for the 
enlargement of the navy, declar- 
ing that we had no real use for a 
first-class navy; that our strength 
lay in defensive power, etc., 
seemingly forgetful of the fact 
that we had a Monroe Doctrine 
to support, as well as thousands 
of miles of our own coast to look 
after. Whenever the newspapers 
chronicled the building of a three- 
million-dollar battleship or an 
expensive cruiser, it was imme- 
diately followed by vituperative 
critici.sm, and the declaration from 
various quarters that such ex- 
penditures were an unjust drain 
upon the people and resources of 
the country. It was a favorite 



assertion that the ships were of no account save to serve as 
palatial touring craft for lazy and overfed naval officers. 
It is comforting to think that during all these years — while 
Peace smiled benignly on our land — Providence or unuttered 
official wisdom in some ciuarter succeeded in keeping our 
naval affairs in the hands of men who knew that they worked 
to a purpose and not in vain, and who, in spite of all the 
grumblings of disgruntled newspapers and small-caliber 
[loliticians, were able, at the proper moment in the hour of 
need, to draw aside the curtain and show to a wondering 
nation a navy worthy of their pride and confidence; not the 




Qun-drill und Distrihutimi 
95 



Nc\% ;irk 




One of the Huge Disappearing Coast-defense Quns at Sandy Hook, New >ork 



largest navy in the world, but second to 
none in equipment or discipline; not the 
most ships, but the best ships; not the 
greatest number of guns, but the most 
powerful and of latest pattern. A navy 
whose officers are gentlemen and states- 
men, capable of meeting the boasted navies 
of Europe in the most intricate maneuvers 
of warfare, or of succe.ssfully adjusting a 
nation's rights through the devious paths 
of diplomatic argument. Men who selected 
their calling from choice, were educated 
and trained for it, and have won advance- 
ment through industry and valor, and not 
through partisan favoritism or hereditary 
good fortune. .\ navy manned by the best 
seamen in the world, and by gunners whom, 
it is said, the Spaniards afterward declared 
could hit a ten-cent piece ten miles away. 
AvA so, when the war-clouds began to 
lower our navy was much sooner prepared 
for service than were the land forces. .At 
that time the navy was divided into many 
squadrons and scattered in various localities 
t»» jT^W 'tt^iS^ At^^^HHE^J/ 4'-CS^^M^£^ "^^^ '"'"^ world. We had a .s()uadron in the 

\^ Jj^^^-^^Sf i'Vlfl^^^KMSm^^wCllMHfl^HR^ Atlantic Ocean, a I'acitic Squadron, an 

L.^^^^^H^^K!LiiA9bSI^^^HffiHliH* ^wiHl9^^^'~ ' .Asiatic Squadron, at Hong Kong, besides 

vessels at other places about the globe 
which took no part in the war. 
The battleship Oregon, which was on the Pacific coast, was ordered to Key West by way of Cape Horn. Leaving San 
Francisco March 19th, she arrived at .Jupiter Inlet, Florida, on May 24th, covering a distance of over thirteen thousand 
miles without a mishap, and played an important part in the destruction of .\dmiral Cervera's fleet. .At the first intima- 
tion of hostilities the North .\tlantic Fleet, under the command of .Ulmiral Montgomery Sicard. was ordered into Southern 
waters, and anchored at Key West, Florida. When the declaration of war came this fleet, now commanded by .Acting- 
Admiral William T. Sampson, was ordered to establish a blockade of Havana and other ports on the northern coast of Cuba 
— from Cardenas to Bahia Honda -and Cienfuegos on the south coast. Later Admiral Samp.son, taking the more heavily 
armed and armored war-vessels of the blockading fleet, bombarded the fortifications of San .luan, I'orto Hico, thoroughly 
testing their capacity for defense. .As soon as it became known that the Spanish Cape Verde Fleet was in West Indian 
waters, supposedly for the purpose of raising the blockade and relieving the Spanish forces in Cuba with supplies and 
ammunition, and perhaps bombarding some .American coast citie.s. Commodore W. S. Schley, commanding the Flying S(juad- 
ron, was ordered from Hampton Roads to West Indian waters to coc'i|)erate with .Admiral Sampson in intercepting and 
destroying this fleet, which was blockaded in the narrow-necked harbor of Santiago, in the .southeastern part of Cuba, 
and destroyed while attempting to 
escape, Sunday, .July '-^k 1898. 

When war opened the .Asiatic 
Squadron, under command of Com- 
modore Ceorge Dewey, had been 
sent to the Philippine Islands with 
orders to capture or destroy the 
Spanish fleet located there. Every 
American .school-boy now knows 
" what Dewey did," and how thor- 
oughly he carried out his orders. 
Previous to the battle of .Manila 
our naval strength was an untried 
factor of our defensive equipment, 
and the nation anxiously awaited 
the outcome of the trial. Dewey 
had cut the cables in order to pre- 
vent Spanish communication, and 
' dispatches were slow in coming. .A 
sigh of relief went up over the land 
when news of the almost incredible 
victory arrived, and as the details 
of the great battle were received 
a grateful nation went wild with 
enthusiastic joy. A vote of thanks 
and a rear-admiral's commission 
were presented to Commodore 
Dewey by Congress, and pojjular 
sentiment bubbled over and filled 
the newspapers with song and 
alleged poetry, of which the fol- 
lowing is a fair sample: in the Washington Navy-yard— a Thirteen>inch Qun Nearing Completion 

96 





Religious Services On Board the Texas, Conducted by Chaplain Jones 



Oh, dewj' was the morning upon that first nf May, 

And Dewey was the Admiral down in Manila Bay; 

And dewy were the Regent's eyes — those royal eyes of 

blue — 
And do we feel discouraged? I do not think we do! 

The acts performed by each branch and even each 
ship of the United States navy assuming a part in 
the struggle is now known to the world, to say 
nothing of the various demonstrations of per.sonal 
bravery among officers and men which have received 
their just meed of praise and substantial reward. 

The United .'states naval victories may be accounted 
for largely on the same basis as those on land — the 
individual superiority of each American over each 
Spaniard. Previous to the battle of Manila the valor 
of .\merican seamen was held in very light esteem by 
Euroi)eans. They pretty generally admitted that the 
-Americans were good .seamen, but declared that they 
were merely a lot of traders; furthermore, that their 




Riley," the Mascot or" the Texas 



ships were manned by descendants from Euroi)ean nations — a mongrel set, who could have no great interest in .\merica, 
and who wouhl not risk their lives fighting against the valorous Spaniards, but would in all probability desert the ships 
as soon as the first gun was fired. .\n evi- 
dence of the opinion held by the Spaniards 
is shown by the following, taken fnmi 
the proclamation which Captain-! Jeneral 
.\ugusti, of the I'hilippines, promulgated as 
soon as he received the word from Hong 
Kong that Dewey was coming: 

"The North .\merican people, constituted 
of all social e.\crescences, have exhausted 
our patience and provoked war by their per- 
fidious machinations, their acts of treachery, 
their outrages against the laws of nations 
and international conventions. The struggle 
will lie short and decisive. [ How well he 
prophesied!] The god of victories will give 
us one as brilliant and complete as the 
righteou.sness an<l justice of our cau.se 
demand. Spain, which counts upon the .sym- 
pathies of all nations, will emerge trium- 
phant from this new test, humiliating and 
blasting the hopes of the adventurers from 



r 




Two of the Mascots of the Buffalo- 

97 



-a Pair of Brazilian Sheep 




Spinning a Yarn— Scene On One of Our Old-fashioned War-sliips 



those I'nited States that, without 
cohesion, without history, offer only 
infamous traditions and ungrate- 
ful spectacles in her chambers, in 
which appear insolence, defama- 
tion, cowardice and cynicism. Her 
squadron, manned by foreigners, 
possessing neither instruction nor 
discipline, is preparing to come to 
this archipelago, with ruffianly 
intention, robbing us of all that 
means life, honor and liberty, and 
pretending to be inspired by a 
courage of which they are inca- 
pable." 
To which the Archbishop added: 
"Christians, defend your faith 
against heretics who rai.se an 
insuperable barrier to immortal 
souls, enslave the people. abolLsh 
cro.sses from cemeteries, forl)id pas- 
tors to perform baptism, matrimony 
or funeral rites, or to administer 
ronsolation or grant absolution." 

Lieutenant A. de ("aula, of the 
Spanish navy, previous to the dec- 
laration of war, contributed an 
article to the IlliisirateJ Spanixh- 
Amrrican, in which he expressed 
the following opinion: 

"As the United States has no 
traditions at all in her naval his- 
tory, it will surprise no one if, in 
the near future, we hear that all 

her vessels have been relegateil to the junk-pile. Fortunately for us, large smoke-stacks and the petty pride of the Yankees 

cannot frighten us, especially when we know through themselves that all the chief officers of the navy, mostly very old, 

have to contend with men working on board ship 

merely for wages. THey tight, cah'ulating in dol- 
lars the amount of courage they will be expected 

to display in battle." 
Shortly after the doughty Lieutenant wrote 

the above a considerable number of war-ships 

were indeed relegated to the naval junk-pile, 

but. strange to .say, none of them had ever sailed 

under the Stars and Stripes. From the mast of 

each, as she went down, was lowered the blood 

and gold of Spain. 

European statesmen cautiou.sly withheld their 

opinions until after the battle. When the out- 
come became officially known, William, the august 

and egotistic, of the house of Hohenzollern in 

Germany, excitedly twisted his mustaches, and 

exclaimed: 

"There is evidently something besides smartness 

and commercialism in the Yankee blood. Those 

fellows at (."avite have fought like veterans!" 
It is true that many in fact, the greater 

part — of the crews of all American war-vessels 

are young men — often mere boys — who in the 

late war were for the first time umler fire. But 

boys, especially those with good Anglo-Saxon 

blood in their veins, often shame their elders 

when it comes to a matter of cool courage or 

desperate daring. It is said that Wellington, 

at the battle of Waterloo, was greatly worried 

because most of the officers in whom he was 

obliged to place dependence were mere striplings. 

He feared lest they should become demoralized 

under the fearful onslaughts of Xapoleon's 

legions; but after the battle, in speaking of the 

conduct of these I'inglish " boys," he exclaimed: 

" Why, tho.se young scamps stood to their posi- 
tions and fought the battle as though they were 

playing cricket at Eton!" Such a statement 




The Mascot of the 

9,S 



Iowa Has a Fondness for Tobacco Smoke 




Aiming a Six-inch Gun On the Newark— Lieutenant Bernadou Conducting Drill 



would likewise be very apt and appropriate concerning the 
behavior of the "youns scamps" who coolly fought on the 
American vessels, and aiiministered, so calmly and methodically, 
a well-deserved thrashing to the haughty and arrogant but 
undisciplined Spaniards. 

The discipline on an American war-ship is marvelous, reach- 
ing a far greater state of perfection than in the army. Some 
of the .\meriean naval officers are very strict disciplinarians, 
and take great pride in the "spick and span " condition of 
their ships and the excellent showing of their men on drill. 
Dewey is one of these; Sampson is another; Sigsbee is another. 
.\nd yet all are kind-hearted men and heartily honored and 
respected by their crews. It is said that about the only offense 
Dewey will not forgive is a lie, and the midshipman who tries 
to palm otf anything but the truth on him is .-^ure to meet 
trouble. .\n old salt who was with him while his shiji was 
stationed in the Mediterranean tells the following story illu.s- 
trative of this trait: 

"One of the petty officers went ashore at Gibraltar, got 
mixed up with some .soldiers in the canteen, and came off to 
the ship paralyzed. He went before Dewey at the mast next 
morning and gave him the 'two beers and sunstruck" yarn. 

"'You're lying, my man,' said Dewey. 
' You were very drunk. 1 myself heard you 
aft in my cabin. I will not have my men 
lie to me. I don't expect to find total absti- 
nence in a man-o'-war's crew; but I do expect 
them to tell me the truth, and I am going 
to have them tell me the truth. Had you 
told me candidly that you took the drop too 
much on your liberty, you'd have been for- 
ward by this time, for you at least returned 
to the ship. For lying you get ten days in 
irons. Let me have the truth hereafter. I 
am told you are a good seaman. A good 
seaman has no business lying.' 

"After that there were few men aboard 
who didn't throw themselves on the mercy 
of the court when they waltzed up to the 
stick before Dewey, and none ever lost any- 
thing by it. One Christmas day in Genoa har- 
bor the men entitled to shore liberty lined 
up at ten o'clock in the morning to answer 
muster before taking the running-boats for 
the .shore. There were about forty of us 
who were quarantined aboard for having 
raised Cain ashore in Nice a few weeks be- 
fore. Our (juarantine was for three months, 




" Captain.Qeneral Blanco," the Mascot of the Oregon 




' Yankee," the Mascot oi the St. Haul 



99 



and it wasn't half run out on this Christmas day. liewey 
stood at the breaiv of the poop, with his hanils on his hips, 
watching the liberty party line up. I's fellows that couldn't 
go were standing around the gangway, smoking our pipes, 
and looking pretty 'down in the mouth,' I guess. The 
big liberty party -there were a couple of hundred in the 
batch — finally got away, and the ship was practically 
deserted except for us ((uarantined fellows. Dewey watched 
us for awhile out of the corner of his eye, while we leaned 
over the side and watched the running-boats going towani 
the shore. Dewey went up on the poop and walked up and 
down, chewing his mustache, and every once in awhile 
shooting a look at us men up forward. Finally he walked 
down the poop and straight forward among us. 

'"You boys hop into your mustering-clothes and go on off 
to the beach. I'll let you have a couple of running-boats 



envied him his ability. Schley him.self abhors profanity, 
being somewhat religiously inclined. One day as he was 
going the rounds of the ship he found a young officer who 
was attempting to conduct a gun-drill; but the whole pro- 
ceedings had been stopped because the breech-block of the 
piece had somehow become wedged fast and could not be 
moved. One after another of the men tried it, and each 
gave it up and stepped back, muttering things that they 
knew it would not do for Schley to hear. Schley himself 
was in a good humor that morning, and thought he would just 
show his men how the thing should be d(me. They stepped 
back respectfully as he moved up and took hold of the 
breech-block. For five minutes he struggled with it, with- 
out accomplishing anything, though a gunner's mate could 
have fixed it in a moment. Finally he stepped back, jianting, 
red in the face, and gazing at the gun with a stern expression 




view of the Wrecked Battleship Alaine as She Lay in Havana Harbor UurinK the Subsequent Investigation 



when they return. Come back with the other men when you 
get ready, and don't raise any more trouble on shore than 
you can help.' 

"There wa.sn't a man in the gang that didn't want to hug 
little Dewey for that, and we gave him a 'cheer ship' that 
made the deck-chains rattle. We all got marked in the log 
as 'clean and sober,' too, when we got back to the ship, for 
we weren't going to do any funny busine.ss on Dewey after 
the way he'd treated us." 

Admiral Schley is also a strict disciplinarian, but, like 
Dewey, is not above unliending a little if occasion retjuires. 
It is related of him that when he was simply a ca])tain he 
often took occasion to remonstrate with one particular 
member of his crew, named Johnson, for his blood-curdling 
profanity. When it came to cu.ss-words Johnson was in a 
class bv him.self, and the rest of the crew stood in awe and 



on his face that showed that he was anathematizing it in 
his mind. Finally he whirled on the men and blurted out, 
"Send for Johnson." Johnson was simply a seaman, and 
knew nothing about guns; but nevertheless he was sent for. 
He appeared before Schley, gave a hitch to his trousers, 
saluted and awaited orders. " Fix that gun, Johnson," said 
Schley, in a strained voice and with a wild look in his eyes. 
Johns'on looked at the gun doubtfully, then walked u]) and 
gave the breech-block a yank. It did not budge, .so he 
stepped back, sjiat on his hands, took hold of it, and began 
to tug and strain, but all to no purpose. He worked faith- 
fully for about two minutes, skinned his knuckles, tore his 
blouse, but otherwise accomplished nothing. Then he stepped 
back a few feet, shoved his cap on the back part of his 
head, took a full breath, and began to say things to that 
gun. For .some moments he kept the air blue. He went 



100 




Mascot of the Buffalo— a Brazilian Marmoset 

through his entire vncabulary forwanl, and then he 
l)erfornied the feat backward. Then he see-sawed 
through it. piekin<; nut the most expressive words 
and makina; combinations that seemed to rip chunks 
out of the air. It was the most picturesque exhibition 
Johnson had ever given, and the crew stood awe-struck. As 
soon as Johnson began his speech Schley's face began to 
clear. It was evident that Johnson was expressing his sen- 
timents exactly. His face became more and more calm, 
until he looked positively happy. Then, as -lohnson showed 
no intention of (piitting. he stepped up to him and said. 




One of the Kapid-fire Guns of the New Orleans 

"I gue.-^s that will do, Johnson; you may go forward." Then 
he handed him a cigar from his pocket, and strolled away 
toward his cabin. 

Seamen are notably superstitious. Nearly every war-ship 
has its mascot a pet animal of some sort -and the jackies 
take as tender care of these dumb companions as they do 
of them.selves: and should a member of the crew kill one 




Wreck of the Battleship Maine — View Amidships, Showinj; the Upheaval of Armor-plate and the Destruction Wrought 

101 




The Boys of St. John's Home Visiting the Brool<lyn Navy-yard 



of them, they would fully expect to meet as stern a retribution as that which befell the "Ancient Mariner," who shot the 
albatross with his crossbow. Probably the most independent mascot in the navy is that of the Iowa. He is a pugnacious 




A Fencing-bout by Two Cracic Swordsmen o( the Newark 
102 



billy-Ktiat. who does not in tht' least resemble 
his brethren of the alleys. No diet of tin 
cans anil old rubber shoes for him! When 
meal-time comes he knows the way to the 
window of the cook's galley, and he K"es 
and demands his dinner. If it is not forth- 
coming in what he considers a reasonable 
length of time, he will rear on his hind 
legs, i)Ut his head in the window, making 
threatening motions, and shaking his whis- 
kers fiercely. His coat is as clean and soft 
and sleek as a well-groomed horse, and he 
never assumes the di.sreimtable leanness of 
his land relatives, for the men keep him 
continually munching fruit and other dain- 
ties. Through association with the .sailors 
he has aciiuired many of their habits, chief 
among which is a liking for tobacco smoke. 
.\s he cannot smoke without assistance, he 
has a way of comiielling the .sailors to .share 
their pijies with him. It is said that the 
sound of a match scratching anywhere will 
bring Hilly pellmell for his whitf of the piiie. 
When the cruiser Buffalo was purchased 
from Brazil (in whose navy she was the 
NictheroyI there were three mascots on 
board: two Brazilian sheep and a Brazilian 
marmoset — a tiny tlouth .American mon- 
key, the smallest species in existence. The 
latter had been on the vessel for years, and 
was "one of the crew" during the Brazilian 
war, when the vessel was actively engaged. 
This nimble little animal is remarkably 
intelligent, the men claiming that he under- 
stands every order that is i.ssued on board the ship, 
the hatchway and conceals himself. The other two 
timid, and will allow themselves to be petted by only 





In the " FightinK-top" of the Olympia, Admiral 



On the Indiana— a Piece of Light Armor Perforated by Spanish Shells 

\\'hen "general quarters" is sounded he scampers to his retreat near 
ma.^cots of the Buffalo — the sheep previously mentioned — are rather 
a favored few of the crew, to whom they have taken a liking. They 
make their home under the steel covering 
erected over the steering-gear as a protec- 
tion from shells. 

" Yankee." the ma.scot of the St. Paul, is 
a frisky little tise-dog of the most diminutive 
type. In siiite of his smallne.ss he has a 
large stock of courage, and occupies a large 
place in the hearts of the sailors. When 
the St. I'aul was attacked by the Spanish 
torpedo-boat destroyer Terror, and the St. 
TauTs guns were busy repulsing her assailant 
and filling the air with crashing sound. Yan- 
kee ran e.xcitedly about the deck, barking 
like mad. ajiparently eager to lend his moral 
support to his friends, if nothing more. 

The mascot of the Oregon is one of the 
spoils of war — a pig, taken from the Span- 
ish Cristobal Colon after its destruction by 
the .American fleet. The sailors have named 
him '"Captain-Cieneral Blanco," and they say 
he is about the most respectable Spaniard 
they saw during the war. He is rapidly 
liecoming civilized, and takes to .\merican 
ways quite readily. His greatest delight is 
to have his back scratched, and he follows 
the men about the deck, hojiing some one will 
bestow this mark of favorable recognition 
upon him. 

May 1st and .luly 'M have become red-letter 
days in the history of the United States 
navy. These dates mark the days upon 
which the most remarkalile battles in modern 
history were fought and won by our navy. 
Both battles occurred on Sunday, and in each 
instance the Spaniards fired the first shot. In 
this connection it may be of interest to quote 
Dewey's Flag-ship the words of pious Captain (now Commodore) 

103 




Second°class Battleship Maine 

Blown I'p ill ll;iv:iiia ll:iilim-. iM'bniiiry in. 1K!1S 

at the time of the battle, and as to shijw, number of men 

generally .■^iiiiposecl. It wa.s |iracticall y ship against .ship, with 

easily outstrip most of those of the .\mer- 

icans. While the American Texa.s, Brooklyn. 

Oregon, Indiana and Iowa annihilated the 

Spanish ()i|uendo, ilaria Teresa, Cristobal 

Ciilon, Vizcaya and torpedo-boat Furor, our 

little pleasure-yacht, the Gloucester, looked 

after the other Spanish de.stroyer, I'luton. 

The number of guns on the ."^jianish ships 
exceeded those (m the .American vessels by 
one. The Xdlidinil Zcititnii. a Ijerman news- 
paper, claimed that the Spaniards "were 
decimated by the superior c|uick-firing guns 
of the Americans." This is nonsense, for 
the Spaniards had forty-six quick-tiring guns 
in their main batteries, while the Americans 
had l)ut eighteen. It was the gunners, not 
the guns, that won the battle, and it is 
now generally believed that had the crews 
changed ships the Americans would have won 
even ([uicker than they did. Rapid-tire guns 
are good, but rapid-tire gunners are more 
essentia!, and were what the Spaniards 
lacked. While the American tire was so 
rapid and accurate that it fairly smothered 
the Sjianiards, the Spanish fire was never rapid and was alway 
said that they had been instructed to disable the Texas, i 



Philip, of the Texas. After the destruction 
of Cervera'stleet, at, Santiago, he said: "The 
Spaniards tired the tirst shot and got licked. 
As far back as history goes, in the days of 
Joshua, at -Manila, here, everywhere, the 
man who tires the tirst shot of a battle on 
the Sabbath is sure of defeat. These Span- 
iards are a Godless race, and their cause is 
an unrighteous one; that accounts for our 
easy victories." 

There may be considerable truth in thi.s, 
but the generally accepted cause of the 
Spanish defeat is their inability to cope 
with the Americans as marksmen. The 
Spaniards claim that in the battle at San- 
tiago they were entirely outclassed as to 
ships and guns, but facts and figures do not 
coincide with this statement. (If cour.se, 
the American force was about three times 
stronger than the Spanish, simply because 
one American is worth three or more Span- 
iards under any sort of circumstances. Hut 
this is a fact that was not generally admitted 
and guns, the two tieets were more evenly matched than is 
the factor of sjieed in favor of the Sjianish vessels, which could 




IJ^n.imite Lruiscr \ esuvius 

Till' Only Vi'sscl iif lis Khul in llii' Woriil 



wild and inefficient. One of the Sjianish officers afterward 
f possible, as she was considered by them to be the most 
dangerous of the American vessels. "But," he continued, with an air of perplexity, "we found that they were all ei|ually 

dangerous, and that, after all was said and 
done, it was four ships against four, and cme 
of these, the Brooklyn, was much more 
lightly armored and gunneil than any of 
ours." 

A further mention of the part the Brook- 
lyn took is given in the account of Captain 
I'hilate. of the Vizcaya. He said: 

"Tlie entire s(|uadron was ordered to 
devote the fire of their guns to the cruiser 
Brooklyn, because it was believed that she 
was the imly ship in the American squadron 
that was speedy enough to catch us. As we 
came out of the harbor my ship was tlie 
second in line, and I .saw immediately that 
the rtag-ship. the Maria Teresa, was getting 
a terrible baptism of fire. It was frightful! 
The Texas and the Brooklyn were .iust rid- 
dling her, and in fifteen minutes she was on 
fire and headed for the beach. The Iowa 
and Oregon were tiring (m the Oquendo, 
behind me. and as yet 1 had not been badly 




Unprotected Steel Cruiser Marblehead 



104 



hit. The Brooklyn was a half mile nearer 
to us than any other ship, and I determined to 
try to ram her. so that the t'olon and ( iciuendo 
could {{et away. She was a };ood mark, 
and I thou};ht I would surely fjet her. liul 
she was evidently watrhing u.s, and she 
turned ab(mt, made a short circle, and came 
at our port side so that I thouH;ht she wouM 
ram us. I moved in toward the shore to 
avoid her, and then I saw the itcjuendo had 
been beached, her steam-jiipes haviny; been 
severed by a shell. The maneuver of the 
Brooklyn was beautiful. We ojjened on hi r 
with all our bi^ Kuns, but she returned our 
fire with terrible effect. The t)rej;on alsu 
hit us .several times, but the Brooklyn's 
broadside crashin;; into our superstructurr 
demoralized and terrified the men. We 
worked all our guns at her at one time, and 
I don't see how she escaped us. She simply 
drove us in to shore, at one time fighting us 
at one thousand one humlred yards. One Protected Steel Cruiser Boston 

shell went the entire length of the gun-deck, killing half the men there and wounding nearly all the rest. A shell from the 
Oregon hit the superstructure; it was then that I was wounded, and knowing we could not get away I struck the flag and 
We were badly on fire, and when the men who were alive started to swim asiiore the Cubans on the 

beach began to shoot at us with rifles until 




headed for the beach. 




Double-turret Monitor Terror 



the .Vmericans came and stopped them. The 
llrooklyn prevented me from getting away, 
for I had a two-mile start of the Oregon 
and could have beaten her out. .My orders 
were to try to sink the Brooklyn, and I did 
my best to carry them out. I had no idea 
her battery could be so terrible." 

Only one .\merican .seaman lost his life in 
the battle of Santiago— Chief Yeoman Ellis, 
of the Brooklyn. He was standing on the 
upper superstructure when a shell from 
the Cristolial Colon pas.sed over and struck 
him fairly, taking ort' his head. 

The last Spanish ship to surrender, the 
Cristobal Colon, was the least injured of 
any of them, and had but three men killed 
and thirteen wounded. But she was crippled 
to .such an extent that she could not escape, 
the Brooklyn and (Oregon heading her otf com- 
pletely. .\t this time the .\mericans could 
have completely shattered her with shot, 
but Commodore Schley evidently saw that 

she C(mld not escape and mercifully ordered them to withhold their fire. When she finally headed for the beach alid ran up 

the white flag she was completely surrounded, the Texas, Oregon and Brooklyn stopping their engines only a few hundred 

yards distant, while the .\ew York and Vixen came panting up in time to see the finish. .As the boat-load of .Vmericans 

drew alongside of the Spanish ship the Span- 
ish sailors leaned over the rail and yelleil 

"Bravo, .Vmericano!" which the Americans 

returned with "Bravo, Spaniards!" The 

American ships held a regular I'^urth of 

.July celebration for an hour or more in that 

little cove under the frowning clifl's of Cuba. 

The men yelled themselves hoarse cheering 

each other, the captains complimented each 

other through the megaphone.s, and the 

Oregon even got out her band and sent 

the notes of "The Star-Spangled Banner" 

ringing over the water. 

.\s Commodore Schley returned from the 

Colon he shouted to Captain I'hilip. of the 

Texas, "Hi, Captain, loan me your chaplain 

for awhile to help bury poor Ellis! " Cajitain 

Philip replied that his chaplain was sick and 

could not leave, whereupon Schley said, 

"All right; I'll get Evans'." Then as his 

boat moved away he continued, " We had a 

daisy fight, didn't we, .lack?" And "Jack" 

answered, '' We did." 




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106 




View On the Pasig River, in the Upper Part of the City of IWanila 



THE PHILIPPINES 

The El Dorado of the Orient — America's Eastern Possessions 




"HE Philippine Islamls (discovered by Magellan, in 
l-'ii'll lie s(3utheast of the continent of Asia, in 
latitude 4° 40' to 20^ north, and longitude IKi'' 
40' to 126° 80' east from Greenwich, their lat- 
itude beinu; thus the same as that of t'entral 
America. They stretch north and south for a 
iy^yt iU distance of nearly one thousand miles, and lie 
fl- |H about six hundred miles frcmi the southeastern 
; ^ ^ coast of China, while the island of Borneo is 
much nearer on the .southwest. There are only 
ten or twelve islands of noteworthy size, although the Sulu 
group, together with numberless other small islands, makes 
the total number upward of twelve hundred, with a total 
area of about 115,001) .square miles, or nearly eiiual to that 
of the states of Pennsylvania. Ohio and Iniiiana combined. 
The island of Luzon, lying farthest to the north, with an 
area about equal to that of Ohio, is of more importance than 
the remainder of the entire group. The next in size is Min- 
danao, in the south. Between these two large islands lie 
the smaller ones — Samar. Leyte, .Mindoro. Panay. Palawan. 
Xegros, ('elm. Bohol and Masbate, besides multitudes of still 
smaller islands. 

The group was named after King Philip II.. the oppressor 
of Holland in the sixteenth century, and the husband of 
bloody Queen .Mary of England. 

.•Ul of the islands are of volcanic origin and structure, 
.some of them still having active volcanoes upon them. They 
are subject to earthquake.s, terrific storms, enormous rain- 
fall, fierce heat — in fact, in the Phiiipjiines all of Nature's 
elements seem to run to extremes and vie with each other 
in producing unu.sual and startling i)henoniena. Yet the 
climate, withal, is pleasant and moderately healthful. 

The volcano of Albay, in the .southeastern part of the 
island of Luzon, has in the past been very active and 
destructive. In 1814 a terrible eruption destroyed twelve 
thousand i)eople and many villages, and in 18(57 a repetition 



of the catastrophe occurred. In ISTU this same mountain' 
was the scene of one of the terrific .storms peculiar to the 
region, resulting in immen.se loss of life and property. 
Earthquakes are freciuent and ofttimes violent. In 1874 
they were of daily occurrence, and in 1880 the lo-ss of 
l>roperty from this cause was very large. 

The climate is thoroughly tropical, having three seasons — 
cold, wet and hot- the thermometer ranging from a mean 
temperature of 72° during the cold season (November to 
February I to an average of 87° during the hot season, which 
lasts from March to .June. It is in the latter part of the 
hot season that the terrific thunder-storms for which the 
islands are noted u.sually occur. During the wet .sea.son 
(July to t)ctoberl the rainfall is enormous, a heavy down- 
]iour occurring every day. 

For over three centuries the Philippines have remaineil 
uninterruptedly in .Spain's po.ssession, notwithstanding many 
insurrections, which were always brought about and led, as 
in Cuba, not by descendants of the original natives, but by 
those of S])anish descent born in the islands. The wars 
thus inaugurated, however, were usually quite easily (luelled, 
owing to the ignorance of military tactics and lack of arms 
among the insurgents, their ])rincipal weajion being the 
long, heavy knife, or /,•/•/.<. carried by all Malays, a weapon 
not dissimilar to the Cuban machrlr, which di<l such effective 
work during the various wars in Cuba. Not until 1897 was 
an insurrection inaugurated in the Philiiipines which really 
I)romised to embarrass Spanish sovereignty in the islands. 
The leader of the insurgent forces was the well-educated 
and subtle Aguinaldo. who, in spite of all Spain could do, 
was gradually drawing closer the lines of his victorious 
army about the Hower of Sjiain's chivalry, when the mother- 
country, conceiving her gold to be mightier than her 
sword - skilled in oppression, but unable to cojie with real 
warfare - in .November, 18!)7,^ otfered .\guinaldo and his 
generals four hundred thousand dollars cash in hand if they 



107 




Puenta Espana Bridge Across the Pasig Kivcr, Manila 



would leave the islands. The offer 
was accepted on condition that 
certain administrative reforms be 
introduced into the fjovernment. 
The promise was made, but, like 
most of Spain's jiromises, it was 
not kept, and at the time of 
Dewey's conquest of the islands 
ARuinaldo had returned from the 
continent, and was a^ain at the 
head of his insurgent forces in 
the interior. 

The entire population of the 
archi[)elago is estimated to be tif- 
teen millions, it being impo.ssible 
to ascertain exactly on account 
of so many of the islands be- 
ing practically unexplored in 
the interior. The population is 
principally Malayan and mixed 
races, with a few of the original 
inhabitants — a sort of dwarfish 
negro called negrito — still re- 
maining. There are many Chi- 
nese and half-castes, or mcstizon, 
the Chinese somehow getting into 
the islands in spite of all re- 
strictions and immigration laws. 
There are very few Europeans, 
even the Spaniards numbering 

less than ten thousand, while most of the races of Europe, especially the Latin, are totally without representation. But 

thi" .Spaniards, in spite of the smallness of their numljers, c(mtrolled the government, and with the aid of the church man- 
aged to keep the islands in a state of subservient ignorance. 

Manila, the cajiital, as well as the principal commercial city and seaport of the islands, is situated on the western coast 

of the island of Luzon, (m a beautiful land-locked bay over one hundred miles in circumference, ccmstituting one of the 

finest harbors in the world. The |)o]iulation of the city, with its suburb.s, is over three hundred thousand— a mixture of 

Si)anish, Malay, Chinese and other nationalities, with the preponderance largely in favor of the Malays, and the Chinese 

holding second place. But there are few i)ure blooils of any race, most of the native-born inhabitants being a mixture of 

two or three races— notably the iimlizox, who are half (^hine.se or Sjianish, and the other half Malay or what-not, and in 

Manila the common saying is, "Lucky is he who knows his own father." But Manila is not a city of many nationalities, 

there being i)ractically no races repre.sented outside those mentioned, except an occasional C.erman or Englishman, or, more 

seldom still, an American. The city is in two parts, Old Manila and New Manila. The old city is of massive structure, 

and is surrounded by a triangular 

wall. It is situated on the .south 

side of the River Pasig, extending 

from the liay about one mile up 

the river, and from the river about 

one mile down the bay. The city 

walls are of ma.ssive masonry, and 

are (or werel surrounded by a 

moat, and well supplied w-ith draw- 
bridges. However, that side of 

the wall along the river is at 

|)resent nearly demolished, and the 

river is spanned by many bridges 

in order to give easy access to 

New Manila, which is built on the 

north side of the river. Many 

interesting l)uililings of ancient 

architecture, as well as many un- 

]ileasant odors from the unwashed 

inhabitants, are inclosed within 

llu- walls of the old city. The (dd 

1 'athedral is a grand structure, 

said to have cost a million of dol- 
lars. It was bereft of its main 

stee])le during the earthcjuakes of 

ISSO, which gives it a di-scouraged 

.-iiid half-hearted air of solemnity. 

Hut its two remaining steeples 

still "])oint the wanderer upward," 

and the interior arrangements 

and decorati(ms are none the le.ss 

beautiful and impressive. This interior of a BIk Hemp-pressinK Bstabllshmcnt, Manila 

ins 





The Great Cathedral in Manila 

Most of the Spanish inhabitants of Manila live in the old 



church is huilt larjjely of steel, and is an unusual 
|)iece of architecture, inasmuch as its various 
jjarts were made in S|)ain and brought to Manila 
by shi]!, where they were uniteii in the construc- 
tion of the edifice. There are also many smaller 
churches, convents and convent .schmds in (lid 
Manila, and the old city hall, army barracks, 
market-places and quaint little shops are quite 
interestinj,' relics of antiiiuity. 

The residence portion of Hid Manila is not 
uninteresting. While a spacious front yard is 
an American's hobby, it is a Spaniard's delight 
to build his hou.se clear out to the sidewalk upon 
it if the laws of the municipality permit. .And 
as ( )ld .Manila was foumled and built by the 
Spaniards, it is a mass of thick-walled, K(iuatty 
houses facing on narrow streets. Very often 
the upper story of a hou.se projects out over the 
street, and a sort of portable bay-window is also 
attached to the lower story on fine day.s, com- 
pelling the pedestrian to go into the street in 
order to get past. Even there he is not safe, for 
the large ujiiier windows are used as a convenient 
point of vantage from which to throw slops and 
refuse into the street, and one does not know 
at what moment he may be treated, without i)re- 
liminary warning, to a violent and di.sagreeably 
odoriferous shower-bath. 

The old city is the headquarters of the church, 
and the.se narrow streets are almost constantly 
being traversed by religious processions, for in 
Manila Catholicism seems to have rites and tra<li- 
tions which are strange to it in other places, and 
either a feast or a fast, a ])rocession, or a day of 
seclusion and abstinence, is continually on the 
tapis. No religion outside of the Roman Catholic 
has been tolerated in the l'hili))pines. and I'rote.s- 
tant missionaries have been repeatedly warned to 
stay away from the islands, 
city; in fact, no one but a Sjianiard could be content to live in 
is" somber, damp, gloomy and i)estilential. lUit it probably 

their cigarettes in drow.sy 



these narrow, dirty haunts of squalor and filth, where all ... 

reminds the Spaniards of their abodes in "" dear old Castile," and they loll in the sun and ru 
inditference all day long. 

The river between the old and the new cities is spanned by a multitude of bridge.-;, some of them, notably the I'uente de 
E.spana, being elaborate and even artistic examples of moilern construction, while others are little, old, w.ibbly affairs, built 
on Hoats on the p<mtoon plan. It takes considerable self-a.ssurance to cross one of these narrow, swaying bridges for the 
first time, and the stranger u.sually picks his path very carefully, keeping directly in the center of the walk. Cro.ssing the 
Pa.sig from the old city into the new is almost 
like emerging from the catacombs into daylight. 
Here are the custom-houses, quays line<l with 
ocean steamships loading and unloading great 
cargoes, the rattle of vehicles, the hum of uni- 
versal traffic- a general air of bu.sy life and 
commerce prevalent on all sides. It is the 
modern city of buyers and sellers - the foreign 
business community of Manila. Like the old 
city. New .Manila proper forms a triangle about 
one mile each way in the corner of the river and 
bay, but its suburbs extend several miles u]) the 
river. Hack from the water-front are hundreds 
of narrow streets, lined with shojis, where the 
Chine.se, in spite of all opposition, continue to 
prosper and control most of the provincial tra<le. 
The real business center of the new city is at 
the junction of the I'uente de Espana with the 
principal street, the Escolta, which is as well 
lined with shops and bazaars and as busy with 
hurrying life as a State street or a Broadway. 
In old .Manila the church rules, but in New 
.Manila commerce and the state take charge of 
things and give evidence of a spirit of enterprise 
and progre.ss. Xo dwellings are mixed with the 
business portion of the New .Manila. It is a 
modern city, with the business in the center, and one of the Big Hemp-prcsslnu Kstabli.shments of Manila 

109 





One of the Bridges Across the River Pasig Connecting Old and ,\i'» AUmila 



the dwellings arranged around the outer edge in attractive 
sulmrbs. Many beautiful residences and villas are seen 
here, owned largely by wealthy Chinese and incstizus. The 
palace of the Governor-(ieneral is situated two miles up the 
river from the custom-house, and is a spacious mansion, sur- 
rounded, or rather enveloped, in a maze of tropical verdure. 

The primitive methods of life of all degrees in the 
Philipjiines are amazing. From the free-and-easy manner 
of living adopted by all classes one would 
suppo.se that there are no natural con- 
tingencies or circumstantial extremes tu 
be provided for or guarded against; and 
the .supposition would be nearly correct. 
The climate is always the same — that is, 
it is always summer, with nothing to 
warrant the wearing of any clothing 
other than the customary white linen 
suit the year round. The natives, in- 
deed, wear even less, appearing as they 
choose, minus either the one or the other 
of the two garments which constitute 
the suit. 

Some of the women dress very richly. 
On feast-days or .special occasions (of 
which there are several every month) it 
is not uncommon to .see women emerge 
from the little nijia huts wearing gar- 
ments which cost small fortunes. .\ 
native woman's pinn handkerchief alone 
frequently costs one hundred dollars or 
mcire. Some of the mestizo women in 
jiarticular wear clothes which the 
daughter of an American millionaire 
could .scarcely purchase without being 
charged with extravagant folly. 

The native houses are of thatch, or 
nipii fiber, which is very airy and com- 
fortable; but woe to the whole colony 
if a spark from a cigar catches in the 
thatch of one of them, for they burn 
like tinder. It is said these conflagrations 
are not always accidental. Dealers in 
thatch have to make a living somehow, 
and when the nijm market becomes slug- 
gish a fire may usually be safely foretold. 



Therefore, conflagrations occur at pretty regular intervals, 
and when sume time has passed without a fire, the natives are 
sometimes heard making wagers as to the length of time 
that will elap.se before the next one, and in what part of 
the city it will occur. The loss of his house is not a very 
momentous affair to the Filipino, for he does not construct 
an expensive abode, nor does he usually have much that is 



i)f value inside 




A Native Filipino Woman 
110 



In ca.'-"e of a conflagration the first to be 
re.scued is the fighting-cock, one of which 
is possessed by every Filipino family. 
Cock-fighting is the national sport, and 
the natives more highly prize a good 
game-cock than almost anything else, fre- 
ijuently losing everything they po.ssess 
in wagers laid on their favorites, or 
winning in the same degree from their 
unlucky neighbors. In the latter ca.se 
it is not uncommon to see a native going 
lujine from a cock-fight with his warrior 
rddster under one arm, and lugging a hat 
or sack full of silver on the other; for 
.Mexican silver dollars constitute the only 
currency of the islands, and all payments 
are made in these bulky pieces. They 
are too heavy to lug around in the pock- 
ets of fragile linen suit.s, so no one thinks 
of paying for anything at the time of 
purchasing, but simply signs an I. O. U. 
Cdllectors come around at the end of the 
miinth, and if the amount to be collected 
is large, they usually bring a man with 
a sack or a wheelbarrow to carry away 
the ciiin. 

Tiling was formerly much used for 
ro(d's in Manila, but there is now a law 
against it. It was found that when 
tyidiDons occurred deaths usually re- 
sulted from the air being filled with 
pieces of tile, which would go sailing up 
the street until stopped by coming in 
contact with .somebody; or in case of 
earlh(iuakes. the tile would drop on the 
heads of the people it was supjwsed to 
shelter, severely injurying them, often 
with fatal results. The roofs now are 



nearly all of tin or galvanized iron, except 
the native houses, which are of thatch. Tin 
roofs are not so pictures(iue as tile, but they 
are a great deal more conducive to longevity, 
and in that respect only are they lietter. 
The heavy tropical storms usually manage 
to rip the tin from a roof on three sides, 
leaving the other side .secure to act as a 
statf from which this great tin banner may 
be joyously tiouted in the wind ami banged 
against the house, while the inmates discu.ss 
which is the more delectable danger, that of 
being maimed by Hying tiles, or deafened by 
the clatter of tons of resounding tin; for 
during a heavy storm the noi.se made by all 
the.se roofs throughout the city is worse 
than any mental concejition of a pandemo- 
nium. Glass is not used in the windows of 
the houses, for it would not stand the wear 
and tear of the elements. Instead, pieces 
of shell are u.sed, cut into little square.s, 
one window sometimes having as many as 
one hundred pieces in it. These windows 
are not entirely transparent, anil one cannot 
.see through them, but nevertheless they let 
in plenty of light of a good quality, soft- 
ening the blinding glare of the .sun and 
Hlling the room with a soft radiance, in 
which are mingled all the colors of the rainbow, acquired 
from the many-tinted shells. But the main consideration is 
that they are very strong, and do not often give way to the 
wind, rain and hail, as glass would. 

The typhoons of the Philippines are something frightful. 
When one of them approaches, all things, animate and 
inanimate, seem to realize the immensity of the pending 
demonstration. Sea-birds tly restlessly from place to place, 
seemingly unable to tind a haven of suthcient security: fish 





Qlrls of the Wealthy Mestizo Class, Manila 



Main Street in the Business Quarter of New Alanila 

leap from the water in their excitement, and fall limply 
back, while the mercury in the barometer dances uji and 
down as though in delight at the approach of its king; 
oxen bellow and Hee to shelter, dogs whine and growl and 
crawl under the houses, cats ruffle their fur and shrink into 
corner.s, and rats and other small animals scurry to their 
burrows; the day becomes dim, the sky being overcast 
with a livid yellow haze; the breeze dies away entirely, 
and all is wrapped in silence, seemingly waiting for the 
expected catastrophe. The storm comes slowly, its 
full strength being preceded by gusts of dust-lailen 
air. The wind moves in a great circle with fearful 
velocity, and the circle itself moves leisundy for- 
ward, simietimes not more than ten miles an hour. 
Thus, if the typhoon conies from the north, the first 
directicm of the wind will be from east to west; then 
there will be a lull, showing that the center of the 
circle has arrived and the storm is half over; then 
another tierce blow, the direction being from west 
to east; the wind gradually dies away, and the sun 
bursts forth and shines on a waste of desolation and 
ruin. ( )utside the center of the storm there is no 
liause in the wind. Thus, if one is on the eastern 
edge of a storm traveling .south, the wind will first 
be from the northeast. gra<lually shifting to north 
and northwest, while on the western edge of the 
storm the wind comes first from the southeast, then 
fnmi the south, and finally from scmthwest, although 
the whole storm is traveling from north to south. 

Manila has one of the best observatories of its 
kind in the world, from which warnings of coming 
typhoons are frequently given out two or three days 
in advance by means of signal Hags. Delicate instru- 
ments are also mounted in the observatory, which 
detect the slightest vibration under ground, and give 
warning of threatened earthciuakes. .As most of 
the tyjdioons which infest this region of the earth 
originate in the island of Luzon, accurate note is 
taken of their direction and speed, and telegraphic 
warnings are sent to the Chine.se coast, the island 
of Formosa, and all points in the China .^ea, thus 
giving them ample time to jirepare for their unwel- 
come visitor. 

There are six daily so-called newsjjapers in Manila, 
which have always devoted the major portion of 
their space to official dispatches from Madrid and to 




insisnifieant local affairs. The news 
of the world does not appear in 
them, and the inhaVjitants must 
depend for real information upon 
the weekly mail-steamer from Hong 
Konu;. Therefore, what is news in 
Manila is ancient history to the 
rest of the world. .Since the offic- 
ial dispatches from Madrid have 
failed, it is a question worthy of 
conjecture as to how the Manila 
editors are filling their papers; but 
it is safe to say that the first live 
Yankee .iournalist who sets up his 
establishment there will cause a 
remarkable stir by printing actual 
news, and will doubtless be loudly 
denounced by his contemporaries 
for his inelegant energy and re- 
alistic strength of purpose. 

The musical talent of the native 
Filipinos is phenomenal, consid- 
ering that it cannot be explained 
where the gift originated. .Ml 
nations near them are notably 
unmusical, yet it is a common 

. „ . ^, .. . „. ... . ,,.„ thing for uneducated, half-clad 

A Group of Natives in a Philippine Village .." . ,. ,, ,. .. 

■^ i-r o natives to perform really artistic 

and ofttimes classic music on piano, violin or harp. Xext to his game-cock, the Filipino prizes his piano, and freiiuently an 
instrument fit to grace the parlor of a mansion will be found occupying nearly half of one of the little iiipa houses. On 
the Luneta. the fashionable drive and promenade where Manila society airs itself each afternoon, the Artillery Band, 
composed of natives, gives a concert daily. Their music is seldom equaleii by bands in Caucasian countries, they playing 
the popular airs of the day and age, as well as the immortal music of the masters. It is .said that Aguinaldo, the insurgent 
leader, nearly rivals I'aderewski in his performances, and thinks nothing of it. 

The Chinese probably occujiy a more important position in the .social and commercial aspect of the islands than any other 
race, Spaniards not excepted. .\'ot only are they usually wealthy and the leaders in trade, but many of them are i|uite 
well educated, which is the exception among the general populace. Chinese public readers frequently occupy stands at 
the street-corners, where they read for a consideration. Their charges are very low, and a crowd of illiterate Filipinos 
securing an ob.solete foreign newspaper frequently make up a "collection" and have it read from beginning to end. These 
readers were also used by the Spanish officials in the promulgation of official manifestos or edicts, a street-corner reading 
giving much more thorough publicity in some quarters than could be secured by posting the notice. Chinese barbers are 
numerous on the principal streets, each carrying his tools and chair with him, ready to set up shop anywhere on the shady 
side of the street and give a customer a shave or hair-cut. 

Although the Chinaman is not very favorably considered in this country, it cannot be denied that in the Philippines he 
has done himself proud, and by actual comparison has proved himself a more valuable cosmopolitan than the Spaniard, for 
he is at least energetic, and develops and creates wealth wherever he goes. It is true that his morality is not all that 
could be desired, but in this, also, he is head and shoulders above the Spaniard, for while he practises polygamy and has 
wives among the native women aside from his Chine.se wife, he is as much attached to his half-breed, or wr.v/i'co, children 
as to those of purely Chine.se origin. He takes care of them, educates them, and they become respected citizens and are 
usually well-to-do. The Spaniard also practises polygamy, but he despises his mongrel children, and when he departs for 
Spain they are left to provide for themselves as best they can. They are usually beautiful in face and form, but the stigma 
of society is upon them, and the boys generally become gamblers and ruffians, while the girls eventually become identified' 
with the already too large horde of Manila .\lagdalens. 

The natural resources of the Philippine Islands are so numerous and pronounced as to defy description. In the first 
place, the soil is fertile to a marvelous degree, producing vegetation so den.se and in such a short time as to seem positively 
magical to a European. .\ field de.serted for one year will become a thick mass of vegetation; the next year it is an impas.sable 
jungle. There is no bare ground except on the tops of the 
active volcanos. The very rocks and cliffs along the shore are 
covered with moss and trailing vines. The siirouting-tinie is 
so short that one scarcely has time to breathe between planting 
and cultivation. In a large field men are frequentiv seen cul- 
tivating one side of a field, who.se verdure gradually becomes 
less pronounced toward the center, while on the further side 
are men tini.shing the planting of the same crop. The Chinese 
small gardeners raise seven to ten crops a year (m their little 
farms. The Chinese are also the principal raisers of rice, 
which is the staple food for a large portion of the population. 
It is said that an Englishman once leased one of the large rice- 
farms, paying in advance and confidently expecting to make 
his fortune. But before one crop was harvested he became 
disgusted and threw up his contract. The cultivation of rice 
is certainly not a pleasant occupation, although the Chinamen 
and their faithful helpers, the carahaus, or native buffalo-ox, 
do not .seem to mind it in the least. They go slowly along 




Philippine Native with Wooden Harrow and Carabao 



112 




^" 



The Lumber Industry in the Philippine Islands — Native Hauling limber with Carahan 

through the flomied rice-tielils. sometimes up to their knees in water, sometimes up to their necl<s, apparently as unconcerned 
as though on dry laml. The cultivating is done among the roots of the plant simply by stirring them with a sort of wooden 
harrow, which has teeth about two feet long. This implement the mraliao patiently drags through the water and mud. 
while the Chinaman at the rear lazily follows and steers it between the rows. An enterjirising .\merican firm once conceived 
the idea that the I'hilippines would furnish a market for irrigation machinery, but upon seeing a photograph of a rice-iield 
under cultivation they immediately changed their minds. 

The great staple product which makes the Philippines of importance to the rest of the world is manila-hemp. from the fiber 
of which ropes and cables are made, and also nianila-paper. Some of the finer grades are even woven into suitable fabrics 
for wearing-apjiarel. many articles of which are said to be very beautiful and expensive. The primitive methods still used in 
the hemp industry are worthy of note. Scarcely any machinery is used, a few rude wooden appliances of native manufac- 
ture and a clumsy carving-knife serving the purpose of rendering into commercial form the world's supply of manila-fiber. 

The hemp-plant is, contrary to the general impression, a good- 
sized tree, very much resembling the banana-tree. The strippings 
from the trees are first hung out in the sun to dry, and are then 
pulled under a heavy knife on a block to .separate the fiber from 
the pulp. Each operator can clean only about twenty-five 
pounds a day in this way, and is paid about tw-o cents a 
pound. This cleaning is done on the mountains where the hemi) 
grow.s, each cleaner carrying his little machine from place to 
place as necessary. The cleaned fiber is taken down the moun- 
tain sloi)es and sold to the hemji-pressing establishments, where 
it is pre.ssed into large bales much the .same as cotton in this 
country. The annual output of manila-fiber is about eight 
hundred thousand bales, or two hundred million pounds. From 
this some idea can be gathered of the number of men who are 
engaged in cleaning fiber on the slopes of the mountains at the 
rate of twenty-five pounds a day. It is .safe to say that 
Americans will not long inhal)it the islands until some le.ss 
primitive means of cleaning the fiber will be evolved by Yankee 
ingenuity and inventivene.ss. 

Other important proiluctions and exports are sugar, tobacco, 
coffee, cocoa and rice. Some of the sugar plantations are very 
large. fre<iuently exceeding one thousand acres. Most of them 
are monastic property and are leased to Chinamen, who are said 

113 




A Cock-fight In the Suburbs of Manila 




Native Washerwomen, Philippine Islands 

ferred to the cigar, although, as above intimated, something like t\v 
number of cigarettes smoked would be almost impossible of estima 
and many natives have a partiality for them. Most foreigners, 
however, smoke cigars, some of the inveterates consuming twenty 
or more big black fellows a day. Philippine smokers are not as 
e.xtravagant as are those in the United States, and any one would 
be considered very foolish to pay five cents for a single cigar. 
The usual thing is the three-for-a-cent cigar, which is about the 
same quality as the three-for-a-quarter variety in the United 
States. If one wishes to be really aristocratic he may i)ay two 
cents each for his cigars, securing the same kind that cost twenty- 
five cents in .Vmerica. There is only one grade of cigars above 
this, and these, the " Incomparables," are so choice that but few 
smokers are acquainted with them, and they are rarely seen out- 
side of Manila. They are made of specially selected tobacco, the 
finest produced, and each cigar is wrapped neatly in tin-foil. 
They are packed in rosewood boxes, tied with Spanish ribbon, 
and are considered a rare delicacy, selling at the extortionate 
price of five cents each. No one except the very wealthiest of the 
oHicials smoke them, the poorer i)eople lieing obliged to content 
themselves with the grades usually ajipreciated l)y .Vmerican rail- 
road magnates and liomlholders. 

Country life in the I'hilijipines is very simple. No elaborate 
de.scription of it can be written, for there is nothing to describe. 
The natives simply live - indolently, sleepily, contentedly: their 
)>rinciiial occupations are smoking cigarettes ami attending cock- 
fights. They live in little thatched, hou.ses, and get along (juitc 
nicely with the assistance of one or two mrabiuiH. The.se faithful 
animals are to the I'hiiippines w'hat the camel is to .-Vralda. 
Aside from performing all field labor on the farms they are ridden 
as horses are in this country, and are used in all kinds of hauling. 
.Many of the I'hilii)pine ox-carts are not carts at all, but sleds, 
with runners like any other sleil. Hitched to one of these the 
cdnihiw moves slowly and patiently along, dragging a load that 
would tax the strength of an ordinary team of horses. 

Of course, the above applies only to the poor and ignorant class 
of farmers, for many of the wealthy Chinese merchants and others 
of Manila own farms which are by no means primitive or uninter- 

114 



to be more succeiwful than Europeans. There is no 
limit to the po.ssibilities of .sugar culture in the 
I'hiiippines, both soil and climate being perfectly 
ailapted to it. Of cour.se. the commercial conditions 
at present surrounding the .sugar trade, and the great 
advancement of the beet-.sugar industry in (lermany 
and the United States, somewhat handicap the develop- 
ment of the cane-sugar industry: but .so far as natural 
conditions are concerned even Cuba does not surpass 
the island of Luzon as a favorable location for great 
iiii;ciii(ix. 

Colfee has been rai.-^ed in these islands for nearly a 
hundred years, but not until thirty or forty years 
after its introduction were any large plantations 
established. To-day the trade does not amount to 
much, although the cjuality i)roduced is very fine and 
the crop is sure. The world has evidently become 
accustomed to buying its cort'ee elsewhere, and conse- 
quently the industry in the I'hilipjiines does not expand. 

The tobacco industry has had the same obstacles to 
contend with in the Philippines as in Cuba, the Spanish 
government having controlled the trade as a monopoly 
for its own benefit since 1781. .Although there were 
no restrictions as to the amount of tobacco any one 
might raise, the government was the only buyer, .set 
its own price, and paid when it got ready, often being 
three or four years behind. Be.sides this, certain 
very fine qualities of the leaf can be i)roduced only 
in certain districts, and in those districts the peasants 
were comi)elled to devote themselves largely to tobacco 
culture, even though the profit would have been 
greater on some other crop. Some qualities of Philip- 
pine tobacco are ecjual to Cuba's finest. Xearly three 
hundred million cigars are manufactured annually, 
about one third of them being exported. In the 
1 hilipjiines every one smokes, the cigarette being pre- 
o humired million of the latter are consumed. The 
tion. They are smoked exclusively by the Spaniards, 




A Wealthy Chinese Merchant of Manila 



esting. There are beautiful parks, with 
snug villas in the center, and ornamenta- 
tion is carried to great excess in architec- 
tural trimmings and horticultural effects. 
In this latter particular it is difficult to 
outdo nature, for in the Philippines it is 
flowers, flowers, everywhere and without end. 
Plants which are highly prized and carefully 
cultivated in this country grow a.s weeds 
in the gardens of Manila. The geranium 
grows to be a healthy bush, exceeded in size 
by the heliotrope, which is often five or si.\ 
feet high and twelve feet in circumference. 
Rose-bushes grow to enormous projiortions, 
but the production of good buds and blos- 
soms requires careful training. Everywhere 
one goes there are flowers -in masses, in 
bouquets two feet in diameter, in baskets, 
in vases, on the dinner-table, peeping in at 
windows, climbing dead walls, <lropping on 
the grass and covering the lawn with color 
in spots— here red, there blue, yonder yel- 
low, purple, white, crimson, and so on nd 
ill fin it II III, until the eyes become tired with 
the variety and the senses dulled to the 
beauty of it all. 

The ponies of the Philippines are worthy of 
mention. They are very small, but exceed- 
ingly tough, and remarkably swift for their 

size. They are owned in the towns, where they are the only carriage 
Manila's street-railway —the tram-cars 
though the scrawny little animal in 




A Private Carriage in the Pliilippine Islands 



animals; and they are also the motive power for 
To see fifteen or twenty people climbing into ime of these big boxes, it seems as 
front would be totally unable to move his great burden. But he starts cheerfully 
off, and the car, with all its human freight, goes merrily on. It seems impo.ssible to load one of the cars beyond his capacity 
to pull it, and the only thing which conquers him is a strong head-wind. Then he gives up in de.spair, and traffic is 
suspended. There is a jockey club in JIanila which gives very good races, and under proper management and breeding 
these little ponies show' wonderful sjieed. 

During Spanish sovereignty the methods of raising revenue for the crown and for the support of officials was very 
simple. First the amount desired was decided ui)on: then it was divided pro rata among the various neighborhoods and 
settlements, and the wealthiest man in each settlement was appointed collector, or calicm dc baranijaii, and the govern- 
ment troubled itself no more about the tax, but when the time came simply collected the amount from the unlucky 
cabtra de IxiraiiDnii. If he found it impossible to collect the amount assessed to his district from his neighbors, why, 
that was his own affair, and the government had nothing to do with it. Very often wealthy planters were reduced to 
complete beggary by this system. It is such policies as this that have caused Spain to be cordially hated in her own 

colonies, and have given her rebellions to contend against in 
all her possessions. 

Not the least important of the productions of the Philip- 
pines is their timber. There is scarcely a soft-wood tree 
in the island.s, while the forests are full of ebony, iron- 
wood, teak, etc., besides the more common and less valuable 
varieties. There is an ant — the great white ant — in the 
islands, which destroys the timbers in buildings, making it 
unsafe and unprofitable to construct frame houses. Conse- 
quently, if one's worldly station raises him above the niiHi 
(Iwelling, he usually builds his house of brick or stone, and, 
if he can art'ord it, the rafters of iron. But the floors are 
of hard native wood, ironwood being perhaps the most com- 
mon, while ebony is often used in the houses of the wealthy. 
The.se woods are susce|>lible of a beautiful poii.sh, and are 
rubbed with banana-peel and greasy rags until they shine 
like i)()lished ivory. The excellence of a housewife is judged 
by the condition of her floor, which her lord and master 
carefully inspects every month to see if the ants have begun 
their inroads. 

Speaking of insects, the Philippines have more than their 
share of them. .\nd not only insects, but every pestiferous 
branch of the animal kingdom is well repre.sented. Xowhere 
else are rats and mice so large and bold. The former have 
lieen known to consume all but the soles of a pair of shoes 
ill a single night, cimipelling their owner to appear at break- 
fast barefooted. Cats lose their courage and prowess when 
turned loo.<e in an infested house, and "house-snakes" are 
used instead. These reptiles live in the garret or the thatch 
roof of the house, and have become practically one of the 
domestic animals of the Philippines. They often grow to a 

115 




Chinese Engaged in the Oil Trade in the Philippines 




An Execution by Qarrote in Manila 



length of fifteen feet or more and a diameter of six inches, 
but they are perfectly harmless, and no one thinks of 
killing them. In fact, no establishment is complete without 
a pair of them. Moreover, they perform their function 
thoroughly, being expert rat and mice catcher.s, and their 
unobtrusive presence is much preferable to that of the 
rodents. Frei[uently a pair of house-snakes will take up 
their abode in the roof of a house without the inmates 
being aware of it, the first intimation they have of the fact 
being the thumping, scurrying and stiuealing incident to the 
vigorous midnight campaigns of the reptiles. The natives 
often bring the.se snakes to town for sale, carrying them 
coiled around bamboo pole.s, to which their heads are tied. 
But not all of the serpent life of the I'hilippines is so harm- 
less as are these house-snakes. In the forest is the great 
jiython, and in the streams are 
many species of water-snakes, 
nearly all of which are venomous. 
The python often grows twenty to 
thirty feet long and a foot or more 
in diameter, and when in a bad 
humor does not hesitate to attack 
a man a.s well as large beasts. 
His method of attack is original 
and intere.sting. He simf)ly makes 
a catapult of him.self, with his 
great head as the jirojectile. With 
his sinuous method of locomotion 
he can easily ap|)roach within a 
few feet of his prey. Then he 
draws back his head and four or 
five feet of his body, and launches 
it at his victim, using the rest of 
his body as a propelling force. .\s 
the parts thus projected will weigh 
tifty pounds or more, and as the 
blow is delivered with great speed 
and the (juickncss of lightning, it 
is usually suliicient to knock any 
animal ofi' its feet, and often 
breaks bones or cau.ses insensibil- 
ity. The advantage is followed 
up immediately by the great re|i- 
tile, which, though not venomou.s 
is a terribly [lowerful constrictor, 
and before there is a possibility of 



the victim recovering from the blow if only stunned, he is 
enwrapped in the folds of the python, and his fate is .^^ealed. 

The streams and lakes in the islands are infested with a 
very large and ferocious variety of crocodile, and bathing 
in .some waters is a hazardous diversion, and not to be 
attempted by the foreigner without a native guide. The.se 
crocodiles, however, have learned to re.spect destructive 
man, and do not molest him unless other prey is scarce or 
when they are disturbed in their chosen pools. 

Lizards — great big ones — are numerous everywhere, and 
may be frequently seen crawling on the walls and ceilings 
of houses, where they do effective service in the extermi- 
nation of Hies and other insects. There are also numberless 
spiders (some of them three or four inches in diameter), 
scorpions, centipeds, and hosts of other insects and reptiles 




A Filipino Farmer with Carabao and Wooden Plow 

116 



which are not only repulsive to the sif^ht, 
but which, should they drop on any part of 
the person, cause great welts and blotches 
on the skin, which sometimes result in more 
serious complications. Heds have to be .sur- 
rounded with a strong screen in order that 
the sleeper may be sure of finding his couch 
unshared by strange and unwelcome beil 
fellows when he awakens, and his clothing 
must be placed out of reach of the rats if 
he desires it to be in a condition suitable 
for a modest and self-respecting gentleman 
to wear the next morning. 

.Many conflicting reports have been circu- 
lated as to the healthfulness of these islands, 
some claiming that they are a veritable 
pest-house, and others that they are reason- 
ably healthful. The tourist in .Manila will 
have a ditiicuit time in settling the matter 
to his own satisfaction. If he asks a native, 
he will receive the assurance that Manila is 
one of the most healthful cities in the world, 
although he himself can see the utter lack 
of sanitary precaution everywhere. The 
moat around the wall of the old city is filled 
with dirty water and reeking filth of every 
age, sex and previous condition of servitude. 
The aggregate refuse of the entire city 
eventually finds its way either to this moat 
or the waters of the bay or the I'asig River. 
On warm days the stench from the moat is frightful, and 
insect life hovers over it in clouds. The .Spaniards claimed 
they were afraid to clean this ditch of its filth for fear the 
pestilential ga.ses released by agitation of the mass would 
cause an epidemic. In spite of all the.se evidences of con- 
ditions conducive to di.sease the visitor will be mystified by 
the fact that he hears of no great amount of sickness or 
death. His doubts will be set at rest, however, when .some 
fine morning he comes face to face with a gentleman on 
the street bearing unmistakable signs of the presence of 
malignant disease, or sees a woman on the tram-car with a 





A Street-corner Refreshment-booth, 



Manila 
117 



Criminals in the Stocks, A\;inila 

baby in her arms, the little one's face covered with the red 
blotches of smallpox. No one thinks anything of such 
occurrences— and that is the secret of it all. The people 
are so used to the disease that they pay about as much atten- 
tion to it as .Americans do to a slight cold. People die of 
smallpox or cholera every day and no one thinks anything 
of it, and the daily number of deaths has to reach a very 
large figure before the fact is worthy of casual mention in 
the new.spapers. A suggestion to quarantine a house where 
smallpox was known to exist would be scott'ed at as non- 
sensical and unnecessarily .severe. And so the best and only 
thing for a stranger in Manila is to 
guard as best he can against con- 
tagion, use care in his diet, and 
keep himself well fortified with 
quinine. 

The Philippine women, as a rule, 
are much more interesting than the 
men, owing, to a great extent, to 
their being more energetic, more 
observant and more able to assim- 
ilate the manners and customs of 
Europeans. The mixing of blood 
in the Philippines seems to have 
caused retrogression in some of 
the attributes of the animal man, 
while his vivacious helimiate has 
correspondingly profited and her 
perceptive and acquisitive faculties 
been augmented, to say nothing of 
the time-honored assumption of the 
traits of loquacity and curiosity 
which she is supposeil to possess 
everywhere, and which she cer- 
tainly exhibits in Manila. The 
traits of character exhibited by the 
men are either Spanish, Malay, 
Chinese, or just simply pagan; but 
no one knows what to expect from 
the women. They are of all .sort^, 
and yet they look more or less 
alike, as though they were all sis- 
ters, ."^ome are undeniably, pretty 
especially the Spanish mestizos, who 




A Chinese Public Reader in Manila 



have the fine features of the Castilian and the smooth, tawny 
skin, handsome eyes and supple grace of the Malay. Among the 
ladies of society in Manila there are constant surprises for the 
unwary traveler. While one lady may astonish him by her exhibi- 
tion of education and refinement, the next intellectual-faced beauty 
may vex him with her incongruous simplicity, ignorance and social 
awkwardness; he may be merely pleased by the simple, gentle 
womanliness of one, and entirely shocked by the reckle.ss, disrej)- 
utable abandon and garrulousness of the next, while still another 
will captivate his fancy with her dazzling beauty and demure 
winsomene.ss. And yet all of these w^omen are on a plane of 
equality and move in the same society. The explanation probably 
lies in the fact that there are no social laws in Manila. Worldly 
station and social position are nowhere so closely allied, and per- 
sonal attributes are absolutely unimportant. After all, Manila 
society but echoes fragments of the society of other parts of the 
world, and each member clo.sely studies the particular foreigner 
who may happen to be under her surveillance, and thinks that she 
is inspecting a sample of the society of the whole world, and that 
when she pleases him she can please all. What a pity that they 
could not all have taken their cues from the same foreigner! 

The countrywoman is a model of housewifely perfection, and 
frequently the burden of rearing and providing for the family 
rests more on her shoulders than on those of her lord and master, 
to whom she is obedient, affectionate and faithful. She prepares 
the food, keeps her .house in order and performs all her other house- 
hold duties in addition to sometimes assisting her hu.sband in his 
farm-work. On w-ash-day she puts the soiled garments of the 
family in a large basket, hoists it on top of her head and goes to 
the bank of a stream. There she finds a smooth rock or boulder, 
which she places in the edge of the water. Then she takes the 
garments, one at a time, souses them in the w-ater, and mauls the 
rock with them until they are clean. It would .seem that this 
method would be destructive to clothes, but it is said that it is not 
nearly .so much so as an .American steam-laundry. Moreover, the 
Philippine laundrymen who do all their work by this process return 
their customers' garments thoroughly clean, artistically starched, ironed, poli.shed, pressed, and delicately scented with some 
agreeable native herb, all for about one fifth the price an .\merican would demand for washing them with machinery, and 
perhaps sending them home pretty badly torn, and often not as thoroughly clean as one would like them. 

In Manila there are enough strange every-day street scenes to keep the tourist busy for a month, and he will not really 
see every phase of life there unle.ss he arises early some morning and okserves hustling native enterprise and commercialism 
"getting a move on itself" at the first glimmer of day. Human necessities are much the same in Manila as el.sewhere. but 
methods of supplying them are ditt'erent. In the cities of the United States dawn is heralded by the clatter of a multitude 
of vehicles on the streets; in Manila it is yelling natives everywhere. Instead of the milk-wagon there is a native with 
two or three large, deep earthen vessels suspended from a yoke across his shoulders. Kerosene-oil is delivered in the same 
way, the trade being handled mostly by the Chinese. Instead of grocery delivery-wagons a coolie and a. wheelbarrow are 
utilized, and thus the expense of a driver is avoided, for the coolie acts as solicitor, horse, driver and collector all in one; 
and, furthermore, it is said to be cheaper to keep a coolie than a horse. 

One of the most interesting of the mercantile enterprises of Manila are the cafes, or refreshment-booths, in the poor 
quarters of the city. They are usually conducted by Chinamen; and while the fare furnished is neither very delectable nor 
in great variety, there is plenty of 
it, and one is allowed to eat all he 
wishes from the entire bill of fare 
for the sum of five cents; or he 
may dine a la carle, paying one 
cent a dish for stewed grasshoppers 
and the same for a large chunk 
of soggy bread, seed-cake or self- 
assertive cheese. The principal 
liquid refreshment is chocolate, 
which is made very thick, and 
eaten by digging it out of the cup 
with a piece of bread. 

.Although the code of morals in 
the Philippines is very loose, still 
crime is punishable as in other 
places. But the crime must em- 
brace actual physical injury or 
financial loss, or it will not be 
recognized as a crime. .Mere viola- 
tions of the laws of social probity 
or individual morality are not con- 
.sidered worthy of notice. The 
beauty of all this is that "scandal" 




A Carabao and Native Boy, Manila 



U8 



iia 



w. 



i '■•* 



1 



^ 



<*..-. 





A 1 aiiiiU oi A\>;rus from the Interior 



is a word the meaning of which is almost unknown, thou^'Ii 

scandalous acts are common enough. Theft is punished liy 

terms in prison, or by being placed in the stocks. Murder 

receives capital punishment by means of the old .Spanish methoil 

of execution, the narrnte. This instrument consists of a brass 

or iron collar made in two pieces, the front part opening on 

a hinge, the back part being fastened to an U])right post by 

means of a large screw, with handles similar to an auger, 

working through the post. At a convenient distance below 

the collar a board seat is fastened to the post, on which tin 

prisoner sits. On reaching the place of execution the victim 

is placed in position, his shoulders covered with a cloak, lii> 

body is fastened to the post by means of ropes passing arounii 

the waist, and the metal collar is closed and fastened around 

his neck. This is followed by Catholic rites, performed by 

priests, after which the chief prison otticial gives the signal f<ir 

the execution. The screw-handle is given a sudden turn hall 

around by the executioner, forcing the point into the spim- 

at its juncture with the brain, snapping the spinal cord, ami 

causing instantaneous death. 

The .second city in size and ini|)ortance in the Philippines is 

Iloilo, about three hundred miles by steamer south of Manila. 

It is the capital of a province of the .same name and of the 

island of I'anay. There is good steamship .service betweeii 

Manila and Iloilo, the trip being made in thirty-six hours anii 

accommodations on the boats being very good. This [lart of tli^ 

archijielago is ijuite densely poi)ulated, the city and provino 

of Iloilo having over five hundred thousand people. 

Iloilo is the principal port of the sugar trade of the islands, 

and also does a large export busine.ss in hemp, timber, coffee, 

tobacco and mother-of-pearl. Of sugar over three hundred 

million pounds are exported annually. However, not all of the 

sugar exported from the city is raised on I'anay, much of it 

being brought in small craft from the rich [dantations on 

Xegros and other islands near by. The .sugar industry has not increased in late years, owing to the competition of beet- 
sugar; but the quantity and quality of tobacco are both on the increase. The tobacco is mostly .sent to Manila, where it is 

judiciously mixed with the superior Luzon leaf and made into cheap cigars. The cultivation of rice has within recent years 

been introiiuced and developed by enterprising Chinamen, and has proved a success. 

Under the rule of Spain it is the same old story of a country rich in nature's gifts being retarded in development by 

misgovernment. Like other places subject to Spanish domination enormous taxes and imports were levied on merchants 

— chiedy mf.«/)'r().v and Chinamen — and planters, to 
enrich the officials of church and state. 

In appearance Iloilo is very unjirepossessing, and 
were it not for its background and surroundings of 
magnificent natural scenery the jilace would be 
decidedly uninviting to the tourist. The streets are 
entirely unpaved, and during the dry sea.son are 
covered with dust ankle-deeji, which the wet season 
(luickly changes the mud being about a foot deep. 
There is a small public s(iuare, profu.sely overgrown 
with weeds and flowers, and the streets are of good 
width and regularly laid out. There is a great, barn- 
like church on the scjuare, and a court-hou.se which 
looks small and dirty by comparison. A stranger 
visiting in the city would find poor hotel accom- 
modations, there being but one, and that i)oorly 
conducted. Restaurants (or cafes), too, are few and 
of a very low order. But some of the other buildings 
on the square are among the best in the entire 
archipelago; they are built of stone and brick and 
have corrugated iron roofs fastened to the masonry 
by iron rods. Taking into consideratiim the disad- 
vantages of location, and the fact that the city has 
been built upon an ancient marsh, it is (juite a 
healthful jdace. The harbor is well jirotected. making 
it an excellent haven for shijis during the fierce 
tropical storms. While the i.sland vf I'anay, which 
lies near Luzon, is freciuently visited by typhoons, 
earth(|uakes are almost entirely unknown. 

Cebu, on the island of the same name, is the third 
city of the rhilippines, and is a clo.se rival of Iloilo 
in size and commercial importance. It is the greatest 
hemp port in the islands, shipping not only the prod- 
uct of Cebu, but that of Leyte, Mindanao, Camiguin 




Native Filipino Women 



119 



and Bohol. Its export of susar is also considerable, amount- 
ing to about twenty thousand tons annually. The population 
of the island is about six hundred thousand, and at one time 
the city of Cebu was the seat of government of the 
archipelago, and was an exceedingly lively place, socially 
and politically. This is all changed now, and the only activity 
is that of commerce. The city is situated upon an arm of 
the sea, making an excellent harbor and a safe anchorage. 
It is a well-constructed city, most of the buildings being 
above the ordinary, and the streets wide and pleasant. 
The old government buildings are now fallen into decay, the 
iniquitous old convent is little more than a relic, although 
still in use, and the whole mass is covered with ivy and mo.ss. 
< tut in the harbor of ('ebu is the historic little island of 
Magton, where Magellan, the famous navigator who, in March, 
l.~)21, discovered the islands, met his death in a skirmish. 

In Cebu is the only known colony 
of Chinese Catholics. They embraced 
that religion through the influence 
of one of their number, a wealthy 
merchant named Wong, of whom the 
following story is told: One night 
when Wong was counting his money 
he heard a noise behind him, and, 
turning about, saw five brawny rob- 
bers. Kach one hail a murderous- 
looking In-is in his hand, and they 
had smeared their foreheads with 
l)lood, signifying that they would 
neither ask nor give quarter. Wong 
was entirely unarmed and at the 
mercy of the murderers, when .sud- 
denly the good St. Nicholas appeared 
and told him he would save him 
provided he would quit worshiping 
Cimfucius and become a decent Cath- 
olic. Wong, having a sound busine.ss 
head, immediately accepted the prop- 
osition, whereupon !r?t. Nicholas waved 
his hand.s, the five robbers fell in 
a swoon, and th(! shrewd Wong 
promptly secured one of their hrixcx 
and cut all their throats. Wong 
kept his word, became a Catholic, 
built a church to .^t. Nicholas, and 
jiersuaded many of his associates to 
also embrace that faith. However, 
an astute i^panish critic has remarked 
that, inasmuch as Wong never pro- 
duced the bodies of the robbers, and 
as Catholics are the only ones having 
real liberty in the islands, that fact 
may have had something to do with 
Wong's change of heart. Neverthe- 
less the church to St. Nicholas is a 
very handsome structure. 

While the Philippines had for 
three hundred years been under 
Spanish sovereignty, there are even 
yet savage tribes in the interior of many of the islands, 
who know nothing about Spain or her authority. The large 
island of .Mindanao has never been subdued, although Spain 
has sacrificed thousands of her soldiers in the attempt. .\ 
favorite way of fighting the Moros is to make up an expe- 
dition of criminals from the pri.sons, arm them thoroughly, 
and land them in a savage part of the island. Spain is 
thus relieved of the expense of taking care of the prisoners, 
and some of the savages are also quite sure to be attended 
to. There are a few villages along the coast of this island 
which are strongly fortified, but nevertheless the Moros 
make raids and kill many people, besides destroying and 
carrying away a great deal of ])roi)erty. 

Whatever may be said of the Chinaman's unprogressive- 
ness, it is nevertheless true that whenever he has chosen to 




A Alilk-vender in Manila 



make his abode in a land inhabited by a le.ss intelligent and an 
unprogre.ssive people he has endeavored to inculcate in that 
people the habit of industry. Chinese influence is strong 
in the rhilipjiine.s, and to the Chinaman is largely due the 
industrial progre.ss that has been made by the natives. 
Notwithstanding the burdensome taxes that were impo.sed 
on everything they produced, the natives have become quite 
industrious. Chief among their products are cloths of dif- 
ferent kinds and weaves and shell-work in various form.s. 
They had also acquired .some ability in the manufacture of 
hemp products— chiefly the making of rope — years previous 
to Spanish conquest of the islands. 

As has been stated, the fertility of the soil almost sur- 
passes belief, fiowers and fruits being produced in greatest 
abundance and of the finest quality. Of the latter the 
mango is most important of the native products. The 
banana here grows to its greatest 
perfection, there being nearly sixty 
distinct varieties. There are differ- 
ent varieties of papaws. oranges, 
pomelo.s, lemon.s, lime.s, citron, figs, 
guavas, pineapples, coeoanuts, tam- 
arinds, grape-s, breadfruit, etc., be- 
sides a variety of fruits peculiar to 
the islands. 

It may also bear repetition to say 
that the forest wealth of the Philip- 
pines surpasses that of any country 
of like area, there being a practically 
inexhaustle-ss supply of fine woods; 
yet this immense forest wealth has 
yielded very little income in the past. 
Now, however, there is every reason 
to believe that under the changed 
conditions which will result from 
the relinquishment of control by the 
Spanish, and the establishment of a 
good government, the timber indus- 
try will be one of first importance. 
While it has been plainly evident 
for centuries that the Philippines 
are rich in mineral.s, yet the Spanish 
government persistently refused to 
develop them; and not only would 
not do it, but prohibited any one 
else from so doing. (Jold has been 
found on all the larger islands and 
considerable of the precious metal 
has been secretly mined. Silver has 
also been found, though not to the 
same extent as gold. Iron of an 
excellent quality was succe.s-sfully 
mined for a time until the mines 
were closed by the government. 
Although coal is imported in large 
quantities, at great expense, it is 
evident that with proper develop- 
ment the islands would more than 
supply the local demand. I'.esides 
these minerals quicksilver, tin, platinum and copper, al.so 
sulphur, ar.senic, petroleum, lignite, plumbago, borax, and 
granite, marble and other stones are found. 

Nature has been particularly lavish in the Philippines, with 
their rich agricultural, mineral and timber lands. Under 
proper conditions the islands are capable of wonderful devel- 
opment in all branches of industry, and would comfortably 
support a population six times as large as at present. The 
natives have proven beyond a doubt their .susceptibility to 
civilization and progress, and could be raised to a much 
higher plane in a few years. With the islands freed from 
the retarding, even retrograding, nii.sgcivernment of Spain, 
and the estalilishnient of a kindly and progressive form of 
government and civilizing infiuences. they will become one 
of the world's great centers of wealth. 



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